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ANY OUT THERE WITH ANY EXPIERENCE REPLACING THE REAR STRUT CARTRIDGES ON A 70 THRU 73 240.
MINE HAS THE ORIGINAL STRUT'S AND HAVE PROVED TO BE ALMOST IMPOSSIBLE TO REMOVE. THE PIN (APPROX. 5/8 TO 3/4 DIA. BOLT WITH NUTS ON BOTH ENDS) SECURING THE LOWER END OF THE STRUT TO THE SUSPENSION HAS SMALL BOLTS THAT SCREW UP INTO THE BOTTOM OF THIS PIN WHICH ALSO HAS A SHOULDER CUT INTO IT PROBABLY AS A POSITIVE SAFETY LOCK.
THE PROBLEM IS THAT BOTH OF THESE SMALL LOCKING BOLTS ARE BROKE.SHOULD I DRILL THESE LOCKING BOLTS OUT AND TRY TO REMOVE THE MAIN PIN.

OR HAS ANYONE HAD ANY LUCK AT REPLACING THE CARTRIDGES WHILE STILL ON THE CAR USING THOSE PORTABLE SPRING COMPRESSORS.
 

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I have some experience with this problem. First you will never get those out without getting that lock-nut out. Second you'll probably have to press or beat the spindle out when you get the lock nut out. The lock nut usually puts some sort of divot in the spindle and causes it to come out very hard. There are some other suggestions, like leaving the spindle in and taking the lower arm off totally, then replacing the struts. Another problem is probably going be getting the strut carts out. If they are original, then they are going to be rusted into the housing.
 

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WHEN MY '73 REAR STRUTS....EVERYBODY WATCHES....

> I have some experience with this problem.
> First you will never get those out without
> getting that lock-nut out. Second you'll
> probably have to press or beat the spindle
> out when you get the lock nut out. The lock
> nut usually puts some sort of divot in the
> spindle and causes it to come out very hard.
> There are some other suggestions, like
> leaving the spindle in and taking the lower
> arm off totally, then replacing the struts.
> Another problem is probably going be getting
> the strut carts out. If they are original,
> then they are going to be rusted into the
> housing.
 

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> ANY OUT THERE WITH ANY EXPIERENCE REPLACING
> THE REAR STRUT CARTRIDGES ON A 70 THRU 73
> 240.
> MINE HAS THE ORIGINAL STRUT'S AND HAVE
> PROVED TO BE ALMOST IMPOSSIBLE TO REMOVE.
> THE PIN (APPROX. 5/8 TO
> 3/4 DIA. BOLT WITH NUTS ON BOTH ENDS)
> SECURING THE LOWER END OF THE STRUT TO THE
> SUSPENSION HAS SMALL BOLTS THAT SCREW UP

After fighting with many of the lock pins and mounting bolts in the early Zs (not worth the hassle) I decided to unbolt the upper fittings and drop-and-swing the strut out. Once unbolted, use your foot to push down on the suspension assembly until the top clears the wheel well. Then you can swing it out (towards you) and apply the spring compressors. It takes some care and effort but it sure beats fighting rust... have fun.

to use spring compressors
> INTO THE BOTTOM OF THIS PIN
> WHICH ALSO HAS A SHOULDER CUT INTO IT
> PROBABLY AS A POSITIVE SAFETY LOCK.
> THE PROBLEM IS THAT BOTH OF THESE SMALL
> LOCKING BOLTS ARE BROKE.SHOULD I DRILL THESE
> LOCKING BOLTS OUT AND TRY TO REMOVE THE MAIN
> PIN.

> OR HAS ANYONE HAD ANY LUCK AT REPLACING THE
> CARTRIDGES WHILE STILL ON THE CAR USING
> THOSE PORTABLE SPRING COMPRESSORS.
 

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1,067 Posts
> After fighting with many of the lock pins
> and mounting bolts in the early Zs (not
> worth the hassle) I decided to unbolt the
> upper fittings and drop-and-swing the strut
> out. Once unbolted, use your foot to push
> down on the suspension assembly until the
> top clears the wheel well. Then you can
> swing it out (towards you) and apply the
> spring compressors. It takes some care and
> effort but it sure beats fighting rust...
> have fun.

> to use spring compressors
I agree, thats how I did my 76. I did not have to open brake lines either just
make sure that you remove the retainer clips holding the lines and move it
into place so as not to stretch the black rubber brake hose.
 
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