Does anyone have a 240Z with stock ignition that could take some voltage readings. I am having trouble getting my car to start. With the key in the on position the ballast resistor for the coil gets real hot. If I take the +/- coil wires off and check voltage I get about 12 V. When I turn the key to the start position the voltage drops to 8-9 V. Is'nt this backwords from what it should do. I thought you get the full battery voltage just during starting and then it should drop ot-8-9V after starting. The car will start for a short time and then start running real erratic and then die. I have changed points, condenser, coil, rotor, dist. cap wires, voltage requlator, checked timing. Has anyone else experienced anything like this. I was out driving one day and all the sudden it backfired and then died and now I can't get it to run again.
72 ignition problem
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andann, you are right starts on 12v runs on 8v . If you have been running 12v to the coil all the time you most likely fried the points and maby the condenser. where do you live ? I have a duel point stock dist that i'll give to you if you pay the shipping. I swapped mine out for a 79 electronic and havent looked back. So far the best thing that I have done . You can pick one up at the boneyard for not too much money concedering what you will gain. I got mine for $75. complete with cap 8mm plugg wires and coil everything . **** the wires are worth $50. look in the search topic to see how to wire it. Gary Portland Ore.
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Go back to the basic wiring, and go from there. One black/white wire to the ballast resistor, one green/white wire to other end of ballast resistor. One black/white wire to the coil + and the black wire from coil - to the distributor. (Note if the tach does not work at this point when it starts, reverse the locations of the two black/white wires). Make sure the condensor is good, and double check the point gap. If the points are closed with the key 'on' and you leave it that way without cranking or starting, the ballast and coil WILL get very hot. While you are at it, I would double check the fuel pressure to the carbs. The only way I can see that you would get 12 v at the coil during 'run' is if someone had swapped the two black/white wires, or added another wire somewhere. When checking the voltages also check from the coil positive to ground, not through the points. If too much voltage through the points they could be fried like luggnut said. With all your parts swaps make sure that the firing order is right also. 153624 counterclockwise at the dizzy.
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