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I am going to transfer an '82 turbo engine into a 240z. I am going to upgrade the suspension and brakes and all that jazz. Is there any difference in weight or anything between the '71-'73 years that would lean me towards one year over another? I presently drive a '72 and would love to get another but they seem to be harder to find and more expensive than the '71s and 73's.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Houston
 

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Tex, as you can see by my name I am partial , really the '70 - '72 were for the most part the same, the 73 is a little heaver due to thicker sheet metal and more emissions junk, which in my neck of the woods can all be removed. Any way there are only slight differences from '70---73 some trim and interior console that sort of thing. If you are wanting a show concors car go for the earlier because there are fewer and getting fewer all the time. My 73 has early front bumper, Dome type SUs and electronic Ignition , and I most likely will be bying different seats , so you can see I am not a purest and drive a hybread but am loyal to th e great inline engine and carbs and keeping it simple and enjoyable. The early Z-cars in my view all of that body style , not , and I know I am going to anoy some people, not the 2+2 cars, are the classic cars and the ones that stand out. Thats my openion and I am sticking to it. Gary Portland Or.
 

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I'd say just pick the best one you can find. Since you are modifiying the car, the intrinsic classic value of any one of the 4 years is virtually nil. Weight difference from 70-73 nil when you consider that most anything that made a weight difference you would be removing anyway. Not to start an argument with Gary, but I've never seen any documented evidence to support the thicker metal on later cars. There was a changeover from fiberglass to steel headlight shells at some point, and as the model went along, there was some additional bracing added, I think, but most weight changes from 70-78 came from bigger bumpers, added emissions equipment, factory a/c, full carpeting and padding, more relays, additional wiring, etc. So, just find the straightest rust free unit and then have fun with the mechanicals.
 
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