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My 300ZX was running great until the other day when it wouldn't start.
It cranks but doesn't turn over. It isn't getting any fire.
Has new plugs, wires, distributer cap, etc. Starter, battery and alternator are all good. Had coil checked and it's fine.
Could it be the distributer? Or possibly some kind of issue with the security system?
 

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Is all of the new stuff an attempt to fix the problem, or did you install all of the new stuff and the problem occurred? How do you know it's not getting any fire (spark)? Have you had a plug in a plug wire, grounded, while cranking? You might have spark but no fuel.

By the way, cranking and turning over are generally thought of as the same thing.
 

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The new stuff was done a couple of months ago and I wasn't having any problems until the other day.
Yes, someone checked it for fire. There was none. Everything with the fuel system is working.
It was trying to start but would not actually start.
 

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Yes, someone checked it for fire. There was none.


It was trying to start but would not actually start.
Those two things don't really go together. If there is no spark, it won't even try to start. If it tries to start, there are at least a few sparks. They may be weak though.

The simple quick test for spark is to shoot some starting fluid in to the intake system then try to start. If it catches and runs for a few seconds you have spark. It doesn't tell what's wrong but it's a clue.

I'm a 280Z guy, although I do also have a 95 Pathfinder. But it's only had one problem in its entire life. The 300ZX guys may have some tips. Good luck.
 

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Get your battery load tested. Be sure you have clean, tight corrosion free terminals on both ends of your battery cables. Be sure the ground (negative) cable goes to a bolt into the frame before going to the starter. grounding through the starter is not a reliable connection. Z's don't like low voltage. causes the electronics to act funny. it is possible to have enough amps to crank but not enough voltage to run the electronics. If you have one size fit all cheapo clamp on terminals they are a problem waiting to happen. Usually on a rainy night around Oh Dark Thirty.

Clean the connectors for the maf or afm, ecu and tps. Deoxit by CAIG is probably the best connector cleaner on the market. spray with CorrosionX after cleaning and before putting together this will help prevent any further corrosion.

How do you know the battery and alt are good. people always say they good but often never have them checked. Good seems to mean it has no optical defects to a lot of people. Battery cables are the most often overlooked defect with a z31. You can have enough amps to crank but not enough voltage for the electronics to function. usually corrosion or those useless clamp on fit all battery terminals that people think are saving them money. pull a plug out ground it and leave the spark wire on crank and observe for spark. probably need a buddy for that to turn the key or if you are more adventurous turn key to on take a hot wire and bump the starter solenoid. pretty hard to check the coil unless the person was very knowledgeable on electrical matters ie not the minimum wage kid at Wal Mart. distributor or security possible but usually outside the realm of what is wrong with the z31. put a fuel gage in the system between the fuel filter and the fpr without knowing your fuel pressure you are shooting in the dark. get some more diagnostic data and then try a new post. cranking means the starter is turning the engine not that the engine started (read what PDX said) you did change the fuel filter eeeh! Is your air intake free of mouse and or bird nests.
 

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Those two things don't really go together. If there is no spark, it won't even try to start. If it tries to start, there are at least a few sparks. They may be weak though.

Well that's not true at all... A car will still crank without a spark, It won't turn over tho...
 

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To me, "turn over" and "crank" are synonyms. The engine is rotating.

Without spark, the engine can rotate all day without starting.
 
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