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You will need:

Mustasche bar from '75-'78 280Z
Driveshaft from the same.
Rear suspension crossmember from same (the one behind the diff.).
The diff cover of an R-200 from the 280Z.

Recomend polyurathane bushings.

It should now just bolt in.

BTW, if you decide to sell the LSD, email me.

I have an R-190 LSD w/4.625 gears for sale or trade.

Ian.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
No No No.. not that complex.

The only real thing you need to do is to flip the mustache bar 180 degrees so that the offset faces to the rear of the car. It is a bear, but can be done. Another thing - get some very large flat washers (say mabye 2 1/2 in around with and ID of around an inch) and put 2 or 3 on the stud that holds the mustache bar BEFORE you put the bar on and then put 2 or 3 on the bottom side of the studs before attaching the lower bushing and nut. These mustache bar bushings are notorious for going bad from dry rot etc.. and the flat washers keep it rigid. You may experience a little more interior noise, but - that's the price you pay for performance.
Second off, you DO need the rear diff cover from a stock R-190 or R200.
Third, you will have to enlarge the 2 bolt holes on the mustache bar with a large drill bit so that the larger mounting studs on the back of the diff cover with go through the holes on the mustache bar.
Fourth, you may have to replace your half shafts. If memory serves correctly, the early R180 shafts bolt into the sides of the diff. On the R200, you have little splined stub axles with 4 10mm studs on each that the later model half shaft will bolt to. These stub shafts just pop into the side of the R200 and lock in place with a C ring lock. You won't have to change driveshafts, or any other suspension pieces. The one thing that you may have to replace is the nose hub of the diff itself where the driveshaft bolts to - keep the R180 around if you need to pop that piece off of it to get the driveshaft bolt holes to line up. This may be necessary, but I honestly don't think it is, I have done 3 of these so far and probably 6 or so R180 to R200 diff swaps - It's not really that expensive, save for the cost of the diff. Hope this helps - fire me an e-mail if you need any further detail.

Tim

> Anyone know what it would take to install a
> viscous diff from an 88 300ZX Turbo into a
> 240Z?
 

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Re: No No No.. not that complex.

I just did a 180 to 200 swap yesterday on a '71 240Z. No offense, Tim, but your way of doing it is hokey. If you want it done right, you will use all of the parts from the 280Z. Those are the diff cover, the curved rear suspension crossmember, and the 280Z mustache bar. If you use these parts, You will not need to drill any unnecessary holes. The outcome will be identical to a 280Z. You will also need a 280Z driveshaft. It is slightly longer. The 240Z half shafts will bolt directly to the R200. They are the same length. BTW, the R190 and R200 rear covers are not interchangeable. I own one of each so I know this is true. There are 2 different driveshaft flanges that I know of, so make sure that the diff and driveshaft correspond. I do recomend the polyurathane mustache bar bushings and a solid diff mount. Yes, it does increase noise, but like Tim says, that's the price you pay for performance.

> The only real thing you need to do is to
> flip the mustache bar 180 degrees so that
> the offset faces to the rear of the car. It
> is a bear, but can be done. Another thing -
> get some very large flat washers (say mabye
> 2 1/2 in around with and ID of around an
> inch) and put 2 or 3 on the stud that holds
> the mustache bar BEFORE you put the bar on
> and then put 2 or 3 on the bottom side of
> the studs before attaching the lower bushing
> and nut. These mustache bar bushings are
> notorious for going bad from dry rot etc..
> and the flat washers keep it rigid. You may
> experience a little more interior noise, but
> - that's the price you pay for performance.
> Second off, you DO need the rear diff cover
> from a stock R-190 or R200.
> Third, you will have to enlarge the 2 bolt
> holes on the mustache bar with a large drill
> bit so that the larger mounting studs on the
> back of the diff cover with go through the
> holes on the mustache bar.
> Fourth, you may have to replace your half
> shafts. If memory serves correctly, the
> early R180 shafts bolt into the sides of the
> diff. On the R200, you have little splined
> stub axles with 4 10mm studs on each that
> the later model half shaft will bolt to.
> These stub shafts just pop into the side of
> the R200 and lock in place with a C ring
> lock. You won't have to change driveshafts,
> or any other suspension pieces. The one
> thing that you may have to replace is the
> nose hub of the diff itself where the
> driveshaft bolts to - keep the R180 around
> if you need to pop that piece off of it to
> get the driveshaft bolt holes to line up.
> This may be necessary, but I honestly don't
> think it is, I have done 3 of these so far
> and probably 6 or so R180 to R200 diff swaps
> - It's not really that expensive, save for
> the cost of the diff. Hope this helps - fire
> me an e-mail if you need any further detail.

> Tim
 

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Discussion Starter #5
> You will need:

> Mustasche bar from '75-'78 280Z
> Driveshaft from the same.
> Rear suspension crossmember from same (the
> one behind the diff.).
> The diff cover of an R-200 from the 280Z.

> Recomend polyurathane bushings.

> It should now just bolt in.

> BTW, if you decide to sell the LSD, email
> me.

> I have an R-190 LSD w/4.625 gears for sale
> or trade.

> Ian.

Thanks for the response! I don't have the 300 diff in hand yet, and your 190 would be a lot easier to install. But 4.625 gears! I'm running a 5spd, what would my rpm be on the highway at about 70 or so? Ah what the heck, how much do you want for it!? (you're sure it's not out of a 4x4 long bed pickup, I understand they can't be made to fit?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Re: No No No.. not that complex.

> The only real thing you need to do is to
> flip the mustache bar 180 degrees so that
> the offset faces to the rear of the car. It
> is a bear, but can be done. Another thing -
> get some very large flat washers (say mabye
> 2 1/2 in around with and ID of around an
> inch) and put 2 or 3 on the stud that holds
> the mustache bar BEFORE you put the bar on
> and then put 2 or 3 on the bottom side of
> the studs before attaching the lower bushing
> and nut. These mustache bar bushings are
> notorious for going bad from dry rot etc..
> and the flat washers keep it rigid. You may
> experience a little more interior noise, but
> - that's the price you pay for performance.
> Second off, you DO need the rear diff cover
> from a stock R-190 or R200.
> Third, you will have to enlarge the 2 bolt
> holes on the mustache bar with a large drill
> bit so that the larger mounting studs on the
> back of the diff cover with go through the
> holes on the mustache bar.
> Fourth, you may have to replace your half
> shafts. If memory serves correctly, the
> early R180 shafts bolt into the sides of the
> diff. On the R200, you have little splined
> stub axles with 4 10mm studs on each that
> the later model half shaft will bolt to.
> These stub shafts just pop into the side of
> the R200 and lock in place with a C ring
> lock. You won't have to change driveshafts,
> or any other suspension pieces. The one
> thing that you may have to replace is the
> nose hub of the diff itself where the
> driveshaft bolts to - keep the R180 around
> if you need to pop that piece off of it to
> get the driveshaft bolt holes to line up.
> This may be necessary, but I honestly don't
> think it is, I have done 3 of these so far
> and probably 6 or so R180 to R200 diff swaps
> - It's not really that expensive, save for
> the cost of the diff. Hope this helps - fire
> me an e-mail if you need any further detail.

> Tim

Thanks for the input! Sounds like there's more than one way to skin this cat! I wasn't even sure if the covers could be interchanged since the 300 viscous diff is non-serviceable unit per Nissan.
At any rate, I love this site, a lot of people sharing lots of experience.
 
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