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Discussion Starter #81
OK. I recently replaced the CAS and PTU. Just relocated the PTU to under the nose section. Battery is the same as when I got it and the ground is slightly corroded but I'll take pics. I did drive the car around earlier before I changed the IAA assembly without issue. It only got bad after changing the IAA and warming it up in the driveway to test the install. I'm thinking that tomorrow I'll be swapping the other IAA back.
 

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I had a car do the same thing you describe... It ended up being either the pump or controller. Don't know which since I changed both with known good ones.

If you can hook up the fuel pressure gauge and go for a drive, and watch it when the engine dies. If fuel pressure goes to 0 before the engine stops then this would be your problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #86
ALPHA: I will have to do that Alpha if the stalling continues since I have swapped back in my previous IAA and it stopped dying when it warmed up. That just means I mussed up something when I cleaned my original one. Before I swapped out my original one, I had gone to a junkyard, pulled an IAA which seemed to have sealed solenoid assemblies, cleaned it, painted it, and put it in. My original one was taken off (which didn't have sealed solenoid assemblies) and cleaned. I decided to try putting the original back in since the intermittent stalling continued. I also had made and used a CORK gasket instead of paying more than 10 bucks to have a new one shipped to me. I figured I could make a ton of gaskets out of the cork material and save some cash. I wanted to eliminate the cork gasket since I was convinced it wasn't ideal and could actually be leaking a bit. When I did swap the junkyard one back in today, I used black RTV on it and the car is running better, not stalling right when it warms up, and seems solid. Then again, I have to give it a few days to see if the previous intermittent stall is still there or if I have eliminated it. I'm crossing my fingers.

VIGMAN: Solder and Shrink what? I split the loom down to by the CAS, taped the collant/engine temp sensor wires together, taped the CAS wires together, then taped the PTU wires that had been exposed all the way down and used the original harness on the PTU and bracket.
 

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So you didn't cut anything in the harness except the factory jacket?? Ok is it possible that something got nicked or the pins in the connector ( s ) are pulled back to far in shell?
 

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Discussion Starter #88
I just unwrapped the electrical tape around the loom and and then pulled off the rubber inner insulator that was wrapped around the wires. Didn't really cut anything. Also, I couldn't have pulled it too far because there is an immense amount of slack after doing all that. But the good news is, after re-installing the cleaned junkyard IAA unit, it stopped stalling on warm up and I even drove it to a couple of stores. Didn't have any stalling. Judging by history though, that's no indication the intermittent stall I was encountering previously, is gone. I'll have to drive it some more. I'm letting it thoroughly cool down now and I'm going to test it again. The intermittent stalling happens more often when it is cold and has been just running for 5-10 minutes. We'll see :/
 

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Discussion Starter #89
Just an F.Y.I. I have finished deleting the AIV, EGR, PRVR, and Carbon Canister. I have capped all vacuum lines and the car is driving nice. Have encountered the intermittent stall yet. Will let you know.
 

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Discussion Starter #90
The intermittent stalling is still happening. This is driving me nuts. I'll be replacing the MAF and TPS tomorrow. Hopefully that will fix the problem. If it doesn't, I'll have to figure a way to check the intake piping for a leak that is intermittent? Could a turbo problem cause this? A blown gasket? I would think that the problem would be constant if either were at fault.

P.S. I've never cleaned my injector connectors or checked my injectors besides a screw driver test with the engine running. I've been researching a little for a future fuel rail and injector upgrade but not sure of the best choice. Whatever I get will be swapped over to the new souped up engine I will eventually swap in so I'm looking for the best stuff I can get. What rails, what injectors do you guys recommend? I know the 300 degree rails will allow me to use new style injectors on my lower intake but wouldn't it be better to just get a newer lower intake and swap it onto the new engine? As far as I heard it bolts right up and fits perfectly? I need confirmation on that. I'm also researching installing an inline fuel pressure sensor and gauge.
 

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Discussion Starter #93
Emmm. I tried to make my car stall tonight... Did everything it would normally take. Started and drove it at night with the lights on, headlights on, low on gas... It ran like a champ. All I did was eliminate some more vacuum tubing, re-timed it, re-crimped IAA, CAS, and MAF connectors. Got the idea when troubleshooting a MAF I picked up from a junkyard. The junkyard MAF was apparently bad, making my idle oscillate a lot after installing it. So I went through all this stuff... Anyway, time will tell. Will keep you updated.
 

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Discussion Starter #94
OK.. It seems the stalling has changed... Are all the Fuel Pump Controllers the same for NA and TT? Going to try swapping one in and need to know what to get...

Nevermind. Did a FPC Bypass. Will see how it goes... again... sigh.
 

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Discussion Starter #96
Em.. Stalling is fixed! Hard starting is fixed! +1 Zed point to whomever first suggested the Fuel Pump Controller. Bypassed it and everything seems good. Now that it's not stalling, I can go back to working on the 600hp engine build I want to put in lol
 

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Discussion Starter #98
I thought it sounded like a bad idea also until I saw the mixed results of running it that way. Most people have bypassed it for years without a problem. I am tracking one down though. Just not in a rush to.
 
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