ZCar Forum banner

Status
Not open for further replies.
1 - 20 of 35 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
646 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I have just bought a 82 280zx turbo with a automatic trans . the car has 62,000 orginal miles .it also has a new turbo .the motor runs like new ,it uses no oil.My question is this the other night I raced a 1990 turbo eclipse with a 5 spd form a rolling start and the **** thing beat me twice .Has any one raced one of these cars if so did you win.Also when you rev my car hard past 4,000 rpms you get this sputtering sound .Is this the waste gate or factory blow off valve .How can I tell if I am getting full boost ,the gauge goes all the way up,but I know these things are junk any way.I want to get a aftermarket boost gauge but do not have the money right now, but when I get the money what kind fits in the dash good.If any one has any mods that I can do really cheap please tell my so I can get this guy back ,don't want people thinking these car are slow

p.s. both cars are stock.

thanks ,jason
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
107,695 Posts
> I have just bought a 82 280zx turbo with a
> automatic trans . the car has 62,000 orginal
> miles .it also has a new turbo .the motor
> runs like new ,it uses no oil.My question is
> this the other night I raced a 1990 turbo
> eclipse with a 5 spd form a rolling start
> and the **** thing beat me twice .Has any
> one raced one of these cars if so did you
> win.Also when you rev my car hard past 4,000
> rpms you get this sputtering sound .Is this
> the waste gate or factory blow off valve
> .How can I tell if I am getting full boost
> ,the gauge goes all the way up,but I know
> these things are junk any way.I want to get
> a aftermarket boost gauge but do not have
> the money right now, but when I get the
> money what kind fits in the dash good.If any
> one has any mods that I can do really cheap
> please tell my so I can get this guy back
> ,don't want people thinking these car are
> slow

> p.s. both cars are stock.

> thanks ,jason

Sounds like something wrong if it sputters like that. Mine revs smoothly with the turbo.
I want to race on eclipse but everyone I see is driven by a girl or the person doesn't want to.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
105 Posts
Don't mess with the eclipses or talons. They are just plain fast. I've driven one. 0-60 in high fives. They have a very high power to weight ratio.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
73 Posts
I have a 83ZXT 1st gear-> 32

2ed -> 68

3rd -> over 85
Do I have a chance???

Jack

> Don't mess with the eclipses or talons. They
> are just plain fast. I've driven one. 0-60
> in high fives. They have a very high power
> to weight ratio.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
680 Posts
> I have a 83ZXT 1st gear-> 32

> 2ed -> 68

> 3rd -> over 85
> Do I have a chance???

> Jack

I would think a automattic are slower then stick. I race both type of cars and came out even.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
195 Posts
> I have a 83ZXT 1st gear-> 32

> 2ed -> 68

> 3rd -> over 85
> Do I have a chance???

> Jack

Depends on how fast youcan get it to do those speeds. If it takes you 20 hours to get to 80, no. If it takes you 8 seconds, yes. Do see what I'm getting at? Just telling us your speeds, doesn't help much.

Chris Behney
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
107,695 Posts
> I have just bought a 82 280zx turbo with a
> automatic trans . the car has 62,000 orginal
> miles .it also has a new turbo .the motor
> runs like new ,it uses no oil.

Wow !!! 62000 original

> My question is
> this the other night I raced a 1990 turbo
> eclipse with a 5 spd form a rolling start
> and the **** thing beat me twice .

If both cars are stock, chances are that the eclipse will blow your doors off. A friend of mine has a 91 eclipse GSX and the thing was fast when it was bone stock. His car is now pumping out about 330 hp and is wicked fast now. (keeps up with Cameros and eats Disgustangs)

Has any
> one raced one of these cars if so did you
> win.

Keep in mind, the eclispse is balanced and designed very well and has all wheel drive (grabs the road extremely well). Since your car is automatic, you can't do much when your at a roll (just floor it). At a stand still, I use to power brake my engine (about 2700 RPM). I played with this before I was able to really launch the car. The good thing is that a 280zx turbo is a quick car outta the box and it's cheap to make it fast.

Also when you rev my car hard past 4,000
> rpms you get this sputtering sound .Is this
> the waste gate or factory blow off valve
> .How can I tell if I am getting full boost
> ,the gauge goes all the way up,but I know
> these things are junk any way.I want to get
> a aftermarket boost gauge but do not have
> the money right now, but when I get the
> money what kind fits in the dash good.If any
> one has any mods that I can do really cheap
> please tell my so I can get this guy back
> ,don't want people thinking these car are
> slow

The sputtering sound is probably the pop-up valve on the intake manifold. This valve looks like a small tuna can. When I first had this problem, I clamped this thing down with some old wire. Keep in mind, this valve is safety for your engine. If you raise the boost a little, this thing is going to sputter. I tied it down when I dropped an intercooler in and raised the boost. I think it's meant to pop up at about 8 psi (stock is about 5 or 6). If it's popping up before that, the spring might be old/worn, I'm not sure. Definitely get an aftermarket boost gauge. (Yes the stock one is useless, it's adjustable via that switch that looks like a pencap behind the glovebox). DON'T RELY ON THE STOCK BOOST GAUGE!

hope this helps

Scott 280zxt
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
195 Posts
Chew it up and spit it out.

> I have just bought a 82 280zx turbo with a
> automatic trans . the car has 62,000 orginal
> miles .it also has a new turbo .the motor
> runs like new ,it uses no oil.My question is
> this the other night I raced a 1990 turbo
> eclipse with a 5 spd form a rolling start
> and the **** thing beat me twice .Has any
> one raced one of these cars if so did you
> win.Also when you rev my car hard past 4,000
> rpms you get this sputtering sound .Is this
> the waste gate or factory blow off valve
> .How can I tell if I am getting full boost
> ,the gauge goes all the way up,but I know
> these things are junk any way.I want to get
> a aftermarket boost gauge but do not have
> the money right now, but when I get the
> money what kind fits in the dash good.If any
> one has any mods that I can do really cheap
> please tell my so I can get this guy back
> ,don't want people thinking these car are
> slow

> p.s. both cars are stock.

> thanks ,jason

Sounds to me like if you car is fluttering, there is something that is not quite right. I'd definitly figure out where the fluttering is coming from, and have it fixed. With a turbo engine, you can do some serious damage, if everything is not working in synch.

Yes, I have raced an eclipse, and I have raced talons. Evrytime, I eat them alive. As I stated in the title, I chew them up and spit them out. Man it's great.

I've raced RS's, who have a 0-60 times in the mid 7's, and quarter mile times of about half a day. The new GTX's, or something like that, (All wheel drive turbo.), can't even break my 0-60 times. I have oe that is about a 5.5 second range. As far as the quarter mile goes, I eat them by about 6 car lengths. I have a N/A engine, with about 250 horse with 1/4 passes in the mid to low 13's at 105 to 110. I havn't run accross an eclipse that can holds a candle to my car.

Also, try racing the eclpse froma 20 punch. If you don't do that, try a 40 punch, it's even better. You ought to be able wrap second gear on him, from 40 to 50, jump into 3rd, and walk away from him.

With a properly functioning engine and about $1000 bucks, you can have a turbo motor that will be faster than any Eclipse you can find. I'd make it a personal goal of mine if I were you to work a few more hours at work each day, save my money, and start wasting the Eclipses in my town.

Good luck, let us know how it turns out.

Chris Behney
Redline Autosports
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
107,695 Posts
what kind of car did you say you have again?

250 HP on what? explain more please.

> Sounds to me like if you car is fluttering,
> there is something that is not quite right.
> I'd definitly figure out where the
> fluttering is coming from, and have it
> fixed. With a turbo engine, you can do some
> serious damage, if everything is not working
> in synch.

> Yes, I have raced an eclipse, and I have
> raced talons. Evrytime, I eat them alive. As
> I stated in the title, I chew them up and
> spit them out. Man it's great.

> I've raced RS's, who have a 0-60 times in
> the mid 7's, and quarter mile times of about
> half a day. The new GTX's, or something like
> that, (All wheel drive turbo.), can't even
> break my 0-60 times. I have oe that is about
> a 5.5 second range. As far as the quarter
> mile goes, I eat them by about 6 car
> lengths. I have a N/A engine, with about 250
> horse with 1/4 passes in the mid to low 13's
> at 105 to 110. I havn't run accross an
> eclipse that can holds a candle to my car.

> Also, try racing the eclpse froma 20 punch.
> If you don't do that, try a 40 punch, it's
> even better. You ought to be able wrap
> second gear on him, from 40 to 50, jump into
> 3rd, and walk away from him.

> With a properly functioning engine and about
> $1000 bucks, you can have a turbo motor that
> will be faster than any Eclipse you can
> find. I'd make it a personal goal of mine if
> I were you to work a few more hours at work
> each day, save my money, and start wasting
> the Eclipses in my town.

> Good luck, let us know how it turns out.

> Chris Behney
> Redline Autosports
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
117 Posts
> I have just bought a 82 280zx turbo with a
> automatic trans . the car has 62,000 orginal
> miles .it also has a new turbo .the motor
> runs like new ,it uses no oil.My question is
> this the other night I raced a 1990 turbo
> eclipse with a 5 spd form a rolling start
> and the **** thing beat me twice .Has any
> one raced one of these cars if so did you
> win.Also when you rev my car hard past 4,000
> rpms you get this sputtering sound .Is this
> the waste gate or factory blow off valve
> .How can I tell if I am getting full boost
> ,the gauge goes all the way up,but I know
> these things are junk any way.I want to get
> a aftermarket boost gauge but do not have
> the money right now, but when I get the
> money what kind fits in the dash good.If any
> one has any mods that I can do really cheap
> please tell my so I can get this guy back
> ,don't want people thinking these car are
> slow

> p.s. both cars are stock.

> thanks ,jason

-
Well, I think a large part of your problem is the part where you said automatic. I have a 79 280zx, with a 5spd, and I have a freind with an auto 280z turboe, and i walk all over him. I've also heard of the turbo kits not working right after time, perhaps you are still using an old part or sumtin, I dunno about the sputter, but if you wanna beat an eclipse, get a 5spd
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
195 Posts
Re: what kind of car did you say you have again?

> 250 HP on what? explain more please.

I have an '82 280ZX N/A.

What would you ike for me to explain?
I started with a tuned airflow meter, with large bore piping, in and out of it. Port and polished intake. Shaved, (milled) head, port matched. Larger injectors, that flow about 1/3 morefuel than stock. Of course the fuel rails had to be replaced to accept this much more fuels, and I had to get a new fuel pump. The stock exhaust manifold was bored, and polished, and works wonderfully. That's why I question all of these people who say that to get high horse power you have to have headers. Compression is a beefy 10.6:1. That's how I obtain all of the horse power, out of a non-turbo motor. With a turbo motor you have to rely on low compression, and then expect to the car to get a lot of horse, under boost. I have a 14 pund flywhhel, and a transmission rebuilt with mostly Nismo parts. I still keep ripping through synchro gears though. The tranny can't keep up with speed shifting at 5200rpm.

The car is tough to keep on the streets, and it eats gas like a 350. I see about 12 m,iles to gallon in town, and I can see about 17 miles to the high way if I take it easy, and don't race every Mustang and Camaro and T/A that I see, but it's hard.

If you'd like to see pictures of my car, you can look in the top left corner of the Zcar.com page. I'm the green Z up there for the month of November. Or you can go to my car clubs web site at
<A HREF=http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/flats/8603>http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/flats/8603</A>

When yu get there got to the bottom of the page, and click on the Novemebr car of the month. There are a lot more pictures, and a few more details.

Chris Behney
Redline Autosports
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
107,695 Posts
Re: what kind of car did you say you have again?

OK, a few questions.
Why the use of larger injectors? I always thought that doing all that crazy head work and stuff only allows air to get in the engine faster and that doesn't necessarily mean more air is getting in. Am I wrong. Does doing that stuff actually allow better efficiency, therefore the need of larger injectors?

Does your car have any low end power? Do you use a wilder cam?

One guy here posted that the light weight flywheels aren't good for torque or for launching from a stop. Or for acceleration for passing.
what does he mean by this? Do light weight flywheels only benefit horsepower and negate torque? Anyways what's your experience with them?

> I have an '82 280ZX N/A.

> What would you ike for me to explain?
> I started with a tuned airflow meter, with
> large bore piping, in and out of it. Port
> and polished intake. Shaved, (milled) head,
> port matched. Larger injectors, that flow
> about 1/3 morefuel than stock. Of course the
> fuel rails had to be replaced to accept this
> much more fuels, and I had to get a new fuel
> pump. The stock exhaust manifold was bored,
> and polished, and works wonderfully. That's
> why I question all of these people who say
> that to get high horse power you have to
> have headers. Compression is a beefy 10.6:1.
> That's how I obtain all of the horse power,
> out of a non-turbo motor. With a turbo motor
> you have to rely on low compression, and
> then expect to the car to get a lot of
> horse, under boost. I have a 14 pund
> flywhhel, and a transmission rebuilt with
> mostly Nismo parts. I still keep ripping
> through synchro gears though. The tranny
> can't keep up with speed shifting at
> 5200rpm.

> The car is tough to keep on the streets, and
> it eats gas like a 350. I see about 12
> m,iles to gallon in town, and I can see
> about 17 miles to the high way if I take it
> easy, and don't race every Mustang and
> Camaro and T/A that I see, but it's hard.

> If you'd like to see pictures of my car, you
> can look in the top left corner of the
> Zcar.com page. I'm the green Z up there for
> the month of November. Or you can go to my
> car clubs web site at
>
> <A HREF=http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/flats/8603>http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/flats/8603</A>
> When yu get there got to the bottom of the
> page, and click on the Novemebr car of the
> month. There are a lot more pictures, and a
> few more details.

> Chris Behney
> Redline Autosports
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
195 Posts
Re: what kind of car did you say you have again?

> OK, a few questions.
> Why the use of larger injectors? I always
> thought that doing all that crazy head work
> and stuff only allows air to get in the
> engine faster and that doesn't necessarily
> mean more air is getting in. Am I wrong.
> Does doing that stuff actually allow better
> efficiency, therefore the need of larger
> injectors?

> Does your car have any low end power? Do you
> use a wilder cam?

> One guy here posted that the light weight
> flywheels aren't good for torque or for
> launching from a stop. Or for acceleration
> for passing.
> what does he mean by this? Do light weight
> flywheels only benefit horsepower and negate
> torque? Anyways what's your experience with
> them?

Well, the head and intake work, does allow more air to get in, and it does get in faster than stock. The tunes airflow meter helps morre air in. Think of it, sort of as a gatekeeper that decide how much air is allowed to the intake. Well, the proper technician can map those things, by throwing some switches, and chnging a few of the parts inside, to allow more air. The porting and polishing on the intake allow the air to move at a higher speed, with less restriction. The head work allows for better flow on the imtake and exhaust side, and allows for the high compresion numbers. With more air going in, I wanted to dump more fuel, so therefor the use of the larger injectors.

Yes, I have tons of low end power. I have a mild cam, nothing too radical. I can get the car to idle smoothly between 1000 and 1200rpm. This is a good place for these cars to idle anyways, no matter what any manual says. Every Nissan Master Tech that I've talked to tells me to have these cars idle at 1000rpm, and you'll have better throttle response, and won't notice a diffrence in gas milage.

About the fly wheel. I used to have the stock flywheel, but my car tore it up. It was heavy as ****! When I went to the one I have now, I noticed a small diffrence, evreywhere in the powerband. It allows the car to wrap the rpm faster also. I noticed a huge diffrence when launching. I don't know what he means by it only helping at certian times. Mine has helped everywhere. The next flywheel I'm going to get, is going to be th 11 pound HKS. In mid to late december, I'm putting in an HKS flywheel, Centerforce II clutch, a shortthrow shifter, and I'm replacing all of my synchronizing gears. I have a Centerforce I clutch now, and it lasted all of about a month. I let it wear in for about a month, but as soon as I made a few hard passes at it, it was considerably less effective. From there it's been all downhill.

All of what I tell you is based on my own experience, and my own car. Other people's cars may act diffrent, but since we all drive Z's here, it's going to be pretty close.

I have all of my work done by Nissan Master Technicians also. I don't so much as even change the oil on my car. Someone does it for me. (I use Mobil one by the way.) The Nissan Master Tech's have years of experience and schooling under thier belt. Yes, it costs a lot to have one work on your car, but it's worth it. These guys know every little trick on these cars to make them run better, and more effeciently. The one I go to worked at a Nissan dealership for years, bufore he decided to form his own bussiness, and start specializing in Z's.

Hope this has cleared up any questions. Just et me know if you have any more.

Chris Behney
Redline Autosports
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
107,695 Posts
Re: what kind of car did you say you have again?

Thanks. How much did it cost to get the engine to where it is at now? Do you think the stock injectors will suffice if I do the same thing?
To get that compression, did you use the shim method to raise everything back up. Some people claim that this isn't the best method but I don't feel like spending 300 on new pistons.

Sorry for all the questions but I've been contemplating for a long time now on whether to make my 83 NA into a pure sports car or buy a 91 300ZX NA.

My plan of attack is basically the same as yours:
Ram air
Big mouth TB
all the porting, polishing, matching, etc. that can be done
raised compression but not as high as yours
mild cam shaft designed for more low end torque
knife edged crank shaft
smaller pulley
removal of AC and power steering
10 Lb fly wheel from Arizona Z car (cheaper than HKS)
Nissan motorsports headers
custom stainless steel exhaust with parts supplied by Hedman Headers
free flowing catcon
Dynomax ultraflow muffler
17 Lb wheels (16)
Not to mention many suspension modifications.

I have the motorsport aero kit II and think it looks a lot better than stock. I also have a customized touring style wing. IMHO, a shogun kit, although I've never seen one on a 280ZX would look very wild (not to my liking). But ****, as long as these cars stay on the road, and not left for the junk yards, it doesn't matter.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
195 Posts
Re: what kind of car did you say you have again?

> Thanks. How much did it cost to get the
> engine to where it is at now? Do you think
> the stock injectors will suffice if I do the
> same thing?
> To get that compression, did you use the
> shim method to raise everything back up.
> Some people claim that this isn't the best
> method but I don't feel like spending 300 on
> new pistons.

> Sorry for all the questions but I've been
> contemplating for a long time now on whether
> to make my 83 NA into a pure sports car or
> buy a 91 300ZX NA.

> My plan of attack is basically the same as
> yours:
> Ram air
> Big mouth TB
> all the porting, polishing, matching, etc.
> that can be done
> raised compression but not as high as yours
> mild cam shaft designed for more low end
> torque
> knife edged crank shaft
> smaller pulley
> removal of AC and power steering
> 10 Lb fly wheel from Arizona Z car (cheaper
> than HKS)
> Nissan motorsports headers
> custom stainless steel exhaust with parts
> supplied by Hedman Headers
> free flowing catcon
> Dynomax ultraflow muffler
> 17 Lb wheels (16)
> Not to mention many suspension
> modifications.

> I have the motorsport aero kit II and think
> it looks a lot better than stock. I also
> have a customized touring style wing. IMHO,
> a shogun kit, although I've never seen one
> on a 280ZX would look very wild (not to my
> liking). But ****, as long as these cars
> stay on the road, and not left for the junk
> yards, it doesn't matter.

Big Bucks!!!!
I spent right at $6000 to replace everything under the hood, plus a few hundred here and there for machine shops and sorts. I replaced EVERYTHING. Power steering, custom radiator, and anything else that could. Just too many parts to list here.

My mechanic must not have used the shim method, becuase I know nothing about it, and he told me everything he did.

I'll tell you the best way to start this project. Buy a remanufactured block from Nissan. A quick $2000, but well worth it. At least this way, it's been through Nissan, and you know it's good.

I routinly stomp the newer 300ZX's. I've pulled up on so many of the 300ZX twin turbos that thought they wanted a piece, but I broke them off more than they could chew. Out of the hole, I pull 2 car lengths on them, and then, I just pull away from them. There have been a few that almost caught me by the 1/4 mile, but I still won.

I think you had best find a set of injectors. I can't tell you exactly how much help the do, because I did all of my engine at the same time. I didn't have it for over a month. So, I have no idea how much any one modification helped as far as horsepower, but i know that it all worked together.

My advice on a compresion ratio would be to not exceed 8.6:1. I have seen bad, bad things happen above this. Sure, you'll have some outrageous boost levels, and you'll scream down the road like a bat out of ****, but your engine will be unreliable, and will only last about a year. My engine should see 100,000 miles if I don't make as many quarter mile passes. I plan on stopping in January, because I have a new car to work on, and I have to make sure that nothin goes wrong with my Z. I have '64 Impala now that I'm going to start customizing, so I'll need as much money for that project as it is, without paying for Z parts.

Good luck with your engine. Don't buy a 300ZX, your car has the abilitty to be faster, and the aftermarket is much larger, and sometimes cheaper for the 280ZX.

Let me know if I can be of any more help. Where do live? Are you going to do the work yourself, or have someone do it? What is the price of the flywheel from Arizona Z? How much does it weigh?

Chris Behney
Redline Autosports
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
482 Posts
Re: Chew it up and spit it out. (long)

> Sounds to me like if you car is fluttering,
> there is something that is not quite right.
> I'd definitly figure out where the
> fluttering is coming from, and have it
> fixed. With a turbo engine, you can do some
> serious damage, if everything is not working
> in synch.

True, something is not quite correct. Sounds like some fuel delivery problem to me.

> Yes, I have raced an eclipse, and I have
> raced talons. Evrytime, I eat them alive. As
> I stated in the title, I chew them up and
> spit them out. Man it's great.

OK

> I've raced RS's, who have a 0-60 times in
> the mid 7's, and quarter mile times of about
> half a day. The new GTX's, or something like
> that, (All wheel drive turbo.), can't even
> break my 0-60 times. I have oe that is about
> a 5.5 second range. As far as the quarter
> mile goes, I eat them by about 6 car
> lengths. I have a N/A engine, with about 250
> horse with 1/4 passes in the mid to low 13's
> at 105 to 110. I havn't run accross an
> eclipse that can holds a candle to my car.

I don't even waste time with an RS, it's just a 1.8L engine with only 125hp. It runs in the high 16's in the quarter. It's mostly a commuting car with some body style.

The eclipse/talon is a slightly heavy car for its size, about 3000lbs or so. But, the GS-X (Turbo all wheel drive) is quite fast. They run in the low 15's completely stock(215hp). As some of you may know, they eclipse turbo is small, and they run at low boost, approximately 7psi. I live in the Bay area, and there are plenty of these around. Most are running 17 rims and huge 3 Trust exhaust. These cars are easy to tune up to 300+hp, by changing the blow-off valve, and upgrading the turbo/intercooler. These guys are seriously fast, and run in the low 13's quite easily. The four wheel drive allows them to hook up like mad off the line, and I haven't been able to beat one of these. I've beaten stock/slightly modified ones, but not these. Although, I must admit, I don't beat them by 6 car lengths, they are just about 1 car length behind me. A 1 second faster 1/4 mi time, isn't going to allow you to win by car lengths, it is alot closer than you might think. The only way you can win by that much is if the other driver isn't trying or doesn't know how to drive.

As far as you're 0-60 and 1/4 mi times are concerned, where did you get this information??? You're car is a 280ZX right??, if so, it weighs quite alot more than a 240Z. I run in the low 14's in my car, (14.3 @ 101.3), and wonder how you with a heavier car can beat my time so badly. My car has almost identical performance to a BMW M3 if you want to compare it to something. Let's also remember that these cars were designed for road racing, not drag-racing, that is why I am content with the hp I have, it's plenty for the turns. I have the 5 speed with stock R180 3.364 diff. This hampers my acceleration somewhat, and I intend to swap in the R200 soon. My engine is a 2.8L triple 45mm Webers/mild cam/Nismo headers/2.5 exhaust. I don't think this has quite 250hp, but its around 240+hp. I know this, because a I have seen similar dyno runs on engines almost identical to mine from Rebello Racing. No one that I know has 250+hp N/A unless they have a radical cam and real high compression with the triples webers. I've seen some that get 300HP, but the powerband is so narrow, they only sell that cam for racing purposes. So, my question to you is how do you know all this information about your car, did someone tell it to you, or have you actually tested all this? If you really do have 250hp, then that is great, but I would like some more information reagaring your claim. Do you have a super high ratio diff (4.11 or something)? How much does your car weigh? Do you have actual dyno runs to prove the 250hp? Or, do you have 1/4mi times and then calculate hp from your times? Not to be a jerk, I just want to know where you received you're information. It just struck me as a little off, from what I understand. Plus, since you say you do not work on your car, it makes me question some of your claims. Guesstimates just don't count in the real world. I've just seen so many people make claims without proof. Most people add the performance claims of manufacturers to their hp and then total it up. It goes something like this:
Stock 150hp
1. Add throttle body +10hp
2. Add exhaust +10hp
3. Add headers +10hp
4. Add cam +10hp
Total 190hp!!

Of course if you dynoed such a engine, it would not have 190hp!!

> Also, try racing the eclpse froma 20 punch.
> If you don't do that, try a 40 punch, it's
> even better. You ought to be able wrap
> second gear on him, from 40 to 50, jump into
> 3rd, and walk away from him.

A rolling race, is a totally different story than a standing start. This is why some manufacturers like Porsche give you several performance specs on their cars, to include this type of performance data.

> With a properly functioning engine and about
> $1000 bucks, you can have a turbo motor that
> will be faster than any Eclipse you can
> find. I'd make it a personal goal of mine if
> I were you to work a few more hours at work
> each day, save my money, and start wasting
> the Eclipses in my town.

If you give an eclispe owner the same $1000, he will have a **** fast car too. Like I said, these cars are easy to tweak, with bigger turbos/intercooler/blow-off valve. These simple mods make gobs of power, and make these cars hard to beat. Although, I must admit, the suspension on the eclipse is nowhere as simple and efficient as the Z car.

Just wondering, (no offense intended)
240Dave
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
195 Posts
Re: Chew it up and spit it out. (long)

> True, something is not quite correct. Sounds
> like some fuel delivery problem to me.

> OK

> I don't even waste time with an RS, it's
> just a 1.8L engine with only 125hp. It runs
> in the high 16's in the quarter. It's mostly
> a commuting car with some body style.

> The eclipse/talon is a slightly heavy car
> for its size, about 3000lbs or so. But, the
> GS-X (Turbo all wheel drive) is quite fast.
> They run in the low 15's completely
> stock(215hp). As some of you may know, they
> eclipse turbo is small, and they run at low
> boost, approximately 7psi. I live in the Bay
> area, and there are plenty of these around.
> Most are running 17 rims and huge
> 3 Trust exhaust. These cars are easy
> to tune up to 300+hp, by changing the
> blow-off valve, and upgrading the
> turbo/intercooler. These guys are seriously
> fast, and run in the low 13's quite easily.
> The four wheel drive allows them to hook up
> like mad off the line, and I haven't been
> able to beat one of these. I've beaten
> stock/slightly modified ones, but not these.
> Although, I must admit, I don't beat them by
> 6 car lengths, they are just about 1 car
> length behind me. A 1 second faster 1/4 mi
> time, isn't going to allow you to win by car
> lengths, it is alot closer than you might
> think. The only way you can win by that much
> is if the other driver isn't trying or
> doesn't know how to drive.

> As far as you're 0-60 and 1/4 mi times are
> concerned, where did you get this
> information??? You're car is a 280ZX
> right??, if so, it weighs quite alot more
> than a 240Z. I run in the low 14's in my
> car, (14.3 @ 101.3), and wonder how you with
> a heavier car can beat my time so badly. My
> car has almost identical performance to a
> BMW M3 if you want to compare it to
> something. Let's also remember that these
> cars were designed for road racing, not
> drag-racing, that is why I am content with
> the hp I have, it's plenty for the turns. I
> have the 5 speed with stock R180 3.364 diff.
> This hampers my acceleration somewhat, and I
> intend to swap in the R200 soon. My engine
> is a 2.8L triple 45mm Webers/mild cam/Nismo
> headers/2.5 exhaust. I don't think
> this has quite 250hp, but its around 240+hp.
> I know this, because a I have seen similar
> dyno runs on engines almost identical to
> mine from Rebello Racing. No one that I know
> has 250+hp N/A unless they have a radical
> cam and real high compression with the
> triples webers. I've seen some that get
> 300HP, but the powerband is so narrow, they
> only sell that cam for racing purposes. So,
> my question to you is how do you know all
> this information about your car, did someone
> tell it to you, or have you actually tested
> all this? If you really do have 250hp, then
> that is great, but I would like some more
> information reagaring your claim. Do you
> have a super high ratio diff (4.11 or
> something)? How much does your car weigh? Do
> you have actual dyno runs to prove the
> 250hp? Or, do you have 1/4mi times and then
> calculate hp from your times? Not to be a
> jerk, I just want to know where you received
> you're information. It just struck me as a
> little off, from what I understand. Plus,
> since you say you do not work on your car,
> it makes me question some of your claims.
> Guesstimates just don't count in the real
> world. I've just seen so many people make
> claims without proof. Most people add the
> performance claims of manufacturers to their
> hp and then total it up. It goes something
> like this:
> Stock 150hp
> 1. Add throttle body +10hp
> 2. Add exhaust +10hp
> 3. Add headers +10hp
> 4. Add cam +10hp
> Total 190hp!!

> Of course if you dynoed such a engine, it
> would not have 190hp!!

> A rolling race, is a totally different story
> than a standing start. This is why some
> manufacturers like Porsche give you several
> performance specs on their cars, to include
> this type of performance data.

> If you give an eclispe owner the same $1000,
> he will have a **** fast car too. Like I
> said, these cars are easy to tweak, with
> bigger turbos/intercooler/blow-off valve.
> These simple mods make gobs of power, and
> make these cars hard to beat. Although, I
> must admit, the suspension on the eclipse is
> nowhere as simple and efficient as the Z
> car.

> Just wondering, (no offense intended)
> 240Dave

Don't worry, there is no offense taken. I understand that some poeplequestion the Horse power figures that I claim.

As far as testing it. Yes, I had it on a water braked Dyno machine. I had 2 third gear blasts. I was going to do a third blast, but my clutch was not holding up. At about 4500rpm, the machine showed 225 horse. Since my engine pulls well past 5200rpm, we knew that I had engine left, if the clutch would stop slipping. So, with a little bit of figuring, 250 horsepower came up. We looked at the power band and how the car was reacting in the weather, and how the rpm were rising, and used these to determine max horse power. The dyno showed just over 2900lbs for my car. Eclipses with a guy and his girlfriend weigh about 3700 right? I know that they are at least 3400 dry curb weight, more if you add gas.

I don't belive anything that I read, or what a manufacter tells me, so you can throw that out. I trust only what my mechanic tells me and what the Dyno and drag strip show. If i waste a car by 5 car lengths, there is no hiding the fact that my car is faster, and I have no problem proving it to anyone with some money and a cocky attitude.

I have a very good relatiopnship with my mechanic, and he knows my car inside and out. So if he says it, it is true. No exceptions. The guy isn't going to lie to me, or tell me I have more horsepower than I do. He knows that I'll put the car on a Dyno machine and check his word.

I have raced about 6 of these all wheel drive Eclipses, some of them stock, 2 of them heavily customized. The stock ones, I beat by about 6 cars. I'm sure it was 6 cars, I have been racing for a while, and you get real good at counting car lengths. The 2 that were heavily customized, were closer. They came within about 3 car lengths. And your right, 1 second seems like a lot of time, but it isn't 6 car lengths. I beat these cars by multiple seconds.

The next time I get the car on the Dyno,(Mid to late December, I'll be posting the slips on my homepage. I'll let everyone know when I do.

Don't get me wrong, I don't want to seem like a jerk either, but. . .
It is no secret that you can get 300 plus horsepower out of a N/A Z engine. The problem is putting on the streets. The 50 horsepower between my 250 and the 300 makes a big diffrence. Like I've said before, it's hard to drive my car around on the streets. It's jerky on the throttle and reacts best at wide open throttle.(Like most cars!) I have a mild cam, but it idles great between 1000rpm and 1200rpm. The 300 horspower cars, have to fight for that last 50 to 75 horse. It's hard to get. It's like trying to get a 302 mustang over 375 horse. Yeah it can be done, but 350 is easier, and you don't have to spend an extra grand to get 25 more horses.

No offense was taken by you, but I stand firm by my claims. I have proof, on a machine, on the streets, and on the track.

Get I get all of your questions answered? If not let me know, and I'll try again.

Chris Behney
Redline Autosports
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
316 Posts
Good to see civil/serious discourse!! well done

> Don't worry, there is no offense taken. I
> understand that some poeplequestion the
> Horse power figures that I claim.

> As far as testing it. Yes, I had it on a
> water braked Dyno machine.

> The next time I get the car on the Dyno,(Mid
> to late December, I'll be posting the slips
> on my homepage. I'll let everyone know when
> I do.

> Don't get me wrong, I don't want to seem
> like a jerk either, but. . .

> No offense was taken by you, but I stand
> firm by my claims. I have proof, on a
> machine, on the streets, and on the track.

> Get I get all of your questions answered? If
> not let me know, and I'll try again.

> Chris Behney
> Redline Autosports
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
195 Posts
Re: Good to see civil/serious discourse!! well don

Yeah, thre are a few of us who like to have civil discussions, and don't take offense to what other Z owners have to say. There are just some many diffrent ways to customize these cars, and make them fast, that not everyone has heard of them all.

So, when someone has a question or a doubt, it's nice to know that you can talk to them without them getting upset or telling you're full of sh*t.

We're all learning here, and this forum was designed to help each other out, and bring Z owners together.

Apperantly Mission Accomplished.

Chris Behney
Redline Autosports
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
107,695 Posts
Re: what kind of car did you say you have again?

Wow! 6000 dollars! Considering I can buy a 91 300ZX in fairly good condition for around 8000, I'm thinking 300Z. That's only if I can sell my 280ZX for the right amount of money.
Considering you paid someone for the work, my cost would be considerably less because I do the work myself. I don't have a turbo so I'm pretty confidant I can go over 8.6:1. I live in New England so snow is a problem. I love the looks of the 300ZX and I would be able to drive it in bad weahter without worrying about rust so much as I would with a 280ZX. If I did keep the 280, it'd probably be cheaper to put a turbo engine in it to obtain the power I want but I really do prefer instant throttle response. I guess non-turbo just feels funner.

about those GSX's, I drove in a friend's 97 GSX and to say the least, I wasn't that impressed.
He revved it up to 5,500 rpm between each shift and we really weren't going that fast. Although that was with 3 college kids in the car.

Just click on the link to go to the flywheel.
Later, Antony

> Big Bucks!!!!
> I spent right at $6000 to replace everything
> under the hood, plus a few hundred here and
> there for machine shops and sorts. I
> replaced EVERYTHING. Power steering, custom
> radiator, and anything else that could. Just
> too many parts to list here.

> My mechanic must not have used the shim
> method, becuase I know nothing about it, and
> he told me everything he did.

> I'll tell you the best way to start this
> project. Buy a remanufactured block from
> Nissan. A quick $2000, but well worth it. At
> least this way, it's been through Nissan,
> and you know it's good.

> I routinly stomp the newer 300ZX's. I've
> pulled up on so many of the 300ZX twin
> turbos that thought they wanted a piece, but
> I broke them off more than they could chew.
> Out of the hole, I pull 2 car lengths on
> them, and then, I just pull away from them.
> There have been a few that almost caught me
> by the 1/4 mile, but I still won.

> I think you had best find a set of
> injectors. I can't tell you exactly how much
> help the do, because I did all of my engine
> at the same time. I didn't have it for over
> a month. So, I have no idea how much any one
> modification helped as far as horsepower,
> but i know that it all worked together.

> My advice on a compresion ratio would be to
> not exceed 8.6:1. I have seen bad, bad
> things happen above this. Sure, you'll have
> some outrageous boost levels, and you'll
> scream down the road like a bat out of ****,
> but your engine will be unreliable, and will
> only last about a year. My engine should see
> 100,000 miles if I don't make as many
> quarter mile passes. I plan on stopping in
> January, because I have a new car to work
> on, and I have to make sure that nothin goes
> wrong with my Z. I have '64 Impala now that
> I'm going to start customizing, so I'll need
> as much money for that project as it is,
> without paying for Z parts.

> Good luck with your engine. Don't buy a
> 300ZX, your car has the abilitty to be
> faster, and the aftermarket is much larger,
> and sometimes cheaper for the 280ZX.

> Let me know if I can be of any more help.
> Where do live? Are you going to do the work
> yourself, or have someone do it? What is the
> price of the flywheel from Arizona Z? How
> much does it weigh?

> Chris Behney
> Redline Autosports
 
1 - 20 of 35 Posts
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top