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280zx Trouble Codes

10709 Views 5 Replies 3 Participants Last post by  bigmike595
I finally got my 1983 280zx running, after a lot of trouble shooting. It's missing on three of the six though. I'm in high school, I tell ya that, and we are currently going over electrical and junk. We were talking about codes and connectors. I know it doesn't have OBD2, or 1, but on the 83 computer there is a green LED. I asked my teacher if that would be a system similar to the OBD1 connector, were you jump two of the terminals and the number of times your engine light flashes is your code. He said it might be, but he isn't to sure about foreign cars. He is a Ford Chevy guy. So i thought i would ask you guys. What is that LED for?
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That is solely for your O2 sensor. You'd have to go to the factory manual that you can download for free at www.xenons130.com and look in the emissions section (EC).

Once warmed up to those parameters, the light should blink so many times a second. If it doesn't, the ecu is not reading the O2 sensor.

As a student you should try to understand why cars do what they do and not rely on the computer to tell you. IMO the biggest problem with today's mechanics is they are part swappers. When it is your money, you may begin to analyze and diagnose. This car will definitely teach you that. Good luck, we'll help where we can. Post some pictures.
Yeah, what Palladin said. The first car I owned that had even "blinky" codes was my 1986 Chrysler Laser, with 2.5L and 5 speed stick. It had a special green triangular light in the tach dial, which was a shift indicator when the engine was running, but was used to read out the primitive engine computer codes when stopped. (I wish I had kept that car)

The light in the Nissan 280ZX ECU, as mentioned, is used to tell the mechanic or owner each time the computer interrogates the oxygen sensor and gets a reading. And that is all it does. Further troubleshooting must be done manually, using the Nissan shop manual and an ordinary analog or digital volt/ohm meter. Or, if you are lucky like me, you can use the actual ECU or CECU shop analyzer device that plugs into the computer's connectors and the wiring harness. They come available on Ebay, now and then, as dealerships continue to get rid of their oldest equipment and manuals. But even with the analyzer, you get no codes. You must use the shop manual to interpret the indications you get when using the analyzer. It is just a little quicker using the analyzer, than using a hand held multi-meter.
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Bob, is this the analyzer mentioned in the FSM?
The ECCS analyzer page EC28 of the 82 FSM?
palladin said:
Bob, is this the analyzer mentioned in the FSM?
The ECCS analyzer page EC28 of the 82 FSM?
Yes, exactly. That analyzer is used for the ECCS (turbo) cars. The non-turbo EFI cars have a different shop analyzer, on page EF/EC-82.

The biggest advantage of using it is not actually the greater efficiency versus a DMM, but the fact that you can sit upright in the seat while using it! You don't have to crouch down under the dash each time you need to do something else. Plus, using the analyzer, you are doing it while the engine is actually running, which can sometimes provide critical clues to problems, such as intermittent sensor signal losses. Plus, you can see the injector pulses from the CECU. If you get a pulse on the analyzer, but your noid light shows nothing, at least you know that the CECU is trying, but that the wiring is open somewhere (probably, very near the misfiring injector).

When the subject of the CECU Analyzer comes up, several forum members often in the past made a big deal about how unnecessary it is, and that "real men" use the hand held DMM instead! I am not sorry I bought mine, nor am I sorry I bought the analyzer for the Auto Climate system. Yes, you can do without them. But I like having all the tools I can get my hands on.
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Hey thanks guys for the help. Thats nice that i can at least see if the O2 sensor is working.When i get some free time, I'm going to test the injector connectors, vacuum, when i do get it running you can hear a his from the back, and compression. I only say compression because after looking closer in the light, it looks wet from the head down! And its # 3 4 5 that aren't firing. I hope its nt the head gasket, I have already changed one on a friends Z, same year, so i know it can be a pain. If you guys have any other possible advice let me know. Oh and it back fires :) Great stuff huh?
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