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280zx, runs hot, stalls and no spark

1906 Views 12 Replies 7 Participants Last post by  palladin, 
C
Okay, so here is the deal. 1983 280zx coupe non turbo. It sprung a coolant leak somewhere under the passenger side of the dash board(still need to diagnose and fix). I limped the car home about 15-25 miles very slowly. I then put more coolant in it the next day. I made it about 3 miles when it already heated up to where the temp gauge was when it leaked coolant and stalled, and it was probably 25-35 degrees outside. I got it towed home(triple A). The car has no spark. I cannot figure this out. I am used to working on vintage dirt bikes, not fuel injected cars. Any advice, idea's, or input is much appreciated! Driving the parents minivan to college is getting old. I miss my z.

Alex
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Calm down.. Now! Plug heater I/O. Fill with coolant. Start and verify spark, fuel, etc. Check connections at the crank sensor "Dist. Housing" and crank using a 225 amp booster charger connected to the battery! Shoot carb clean in the intake, but do something!!
Nick
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heroe
I have cash for your zx interior, your hatch, maybe some other stuff if its in good shape.
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2
it is possible the ignition module (transistor) has gone bad. they sometime fail when hot then work again when cool. get some freeze spray at radio shack. when it dies spray it and see if it comes back to life. have your battery load tested at a battery shop along with the charging system. usually free. check you battery cables for corrosion on both ends both cables. Z's don't like low voltage. your ground strap should go first to a bolt into the frame below the battery box and then to the starter. grounding through the starter is not a reliable connection. you got one size fit all clamp terminals (pic) replace with real battery cables they cause problems and corrode down into the wire. I doubt your non running is caused by the coolant leak unless it was spraying all over the engine compartment or under the dash. stop the coolant leak. diagnose for other problems. fuel presssure or vacuum leak.

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palladin
Barring a broken hose, your coolant leak is probably the heater ****. If it is the heater ****, I have a link in my signature to repair procedures. If it is the heater ****, you can minimize the leak by selecting full hot. I agree the coolant leak has nothing to do with the running issue, unless it soaked the ECU.
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C
Alright, I got the battery checked out, the coil is good. The dang thing turns over, but no spark. I myself suspect the ignition module. But I am not mechanic. And thanks palladin, I found that being mentioned by you in another thread when I searched. I am not that good with a multimeter, but the FSM says to check the wiring to the ignition module, that is assuming I performed the test correctly.

Alex
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palladin
A multi meter can tell you two things: (1) If there is 12v going to a particular wire (Put it on DC and put black to ground and touch the sus[ected 12v wire with the red). (2) can tell you if the wire is a ground by touching one probe to a metal part of the body and the other probe to the wire. (3) if a wire is intact by touching one end with a probe and the other end with he other probe.
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J
RogerZ said:
you got one size fit all clamp terminals (pic) replace with real battery cables they cause problems and corrode down into the wire.
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What type battery cable provides more secure / better connectivity than the "one size fits all" clamp type? can you post a link, pic, etc.

JGW
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heroe
It may be the module, could be that coil in the distributor that plugs into the module. Considering that coil is a wear out part and very cheap, yot may want to replace that while you are at it. Be careful not to break the stator magnet.
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canammx1 said:
Okay, so here is the deal. 1983 280zx coupe non turbo. It sprung a coolant leak somewhere under the passenger side of the dash board(still need to diagnose and fix). I limped the car home about 15-25 miles very slowly. I then put more coolant in it the next day. I made it about 3 miles when it already heated up to where the temp gauge was when it leaked coolant and stalled, and it was probably 25-35 degrees outside. I got it towed home(triple A). The car has no spark. I cannot figure this out. I am used to working on vintage dirt bikes, not fuel injected cars. Any advice, idea's, or input is much appreciated! Driving the parents minivan to college is getting old. I miss my z.

Alex
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Well Alex i'm recently in the same debate as you. I've gone through all the same and still trying to fix the same problem with mine. No spark coming from my 83 280zx turbo ignition coil. Its been tested and a new battery. Its cranks hard and no spark so i'm hoping we both find the answer. But the coolant leak under the dash is the heater core sadly i have the same problem. My next try is either the module or just the switch for now.
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palladin said:
Barring a broken hose, your coolant leak is probably the heater ****. If it is the heater ****, I have a link in my signature to repair procedures. If it is the heater ****, you can minimize the leak by selecting full hot. I agree the coolant leak has nothing to do with the running issue, unless it soaked the ECU.
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Its mostly posted that the ECU's go out in these cars so thats a good point you have there.


Jeff
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C
The heater core isn't the problem. I have torn apart the dash enough to know that it is not coming from the heater core. At least I am pretty sure of that. And thanks for the advice everyone, much appreciated.

Alex
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palladin
If you have manual AC, it is not the heater core but the heater valve. There is a possibility of a leak from one of the heater hoses but easy money on the heater valve.
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