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So i tried to take her out on the road today for the first time in 15 years, but she had a distinct lack of power and only revs to 3k, she doesnt struggle to rev to 3k tho, shes banging off 3k like its a rev limiter, and idles higher than i want her too, and runs a little rough under idle, please help
 

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like I said in the other post.... download the FSM from xenonzcar.com and go through the information and troubleshooting section for your year car (engine fuel and emission control)

she probably has bad gas, needs a tune up (fuel filter, air filter, oil change, spark plugs, wires, dizzy cap and rotor) plus all electrical plug contact cleaning, vacuum leak testing, CHTS sensor testing and cleaning, good battery and solid ground connections, coolant drain and change)

my 280zx was in storage for several years and when I came back a few months ago and got her back on the street, she ran like crap.

Bon
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
like I said in the other post.... download the FSM from xenonzcar.com and go through the information and troubleshooting section for your year car (engine fuel and emission control)

she probably has bad gas, needs a tune up (fuel filter, air filter, oil change, spark plugs, wires, dizzy cap and rotor) plus all electrical plug contact cleaning, vacuum leak testing, CHTS sensor testing and cleaning, good battery and solid ground connections, coolant drain and change)

my 280zx was in storage for several years and when I came back a few months ago and got her back on the street, she ran like crap.

Bon
I didnt literally just get in and go, ive been working on her for a month and did all the basic maintenance also, but thank you
 

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82’ non-turbo
have you checked your afm or has anyone messed with it this could cause the car to lean out or run to rich, have you checked your throttle position sensor you can check it by unplugging it (its located on the side of the throttle body) if your rpm's come back your tps probably shorted out internally, another thing to check is your fuel pressure its supposed to be around 30-38 (thats what its supposed to be on my 81 N/a)
 

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Like bonfire said get the FSM. Its free here.
XenonZcar.com S130 Factory Service manuals
The diagnostic procedure starts on page 25 of the Engine Fuel chapter but read thru it all a couple of times to get familiar with how it works.
You may also have an issue with your distributor advance system. There is a plastic part that breaks and renders your vacuum advance non operational. Also make sure you check your O2 sensor if you have one. The O2 sensor is ez to find, its sticking out of the exhaust manifold on the drivers side. If you have one you check it by starting the engine and letting it warm up for 10 minutes or so. Your ECU, located behind the drivers side kick panel, has a green led light and an access hole to view it. The kick panel also has a hole in it to view the led. Use a small mirror and look for the LED or pull your kick panel. When you first start the car the light should be steady green and after a bit of warm up it should start to blink. Its a self check. A bad O2 sensor will cause a rough idle but so will a partially functional/plugged injector a small vacuum leak, incorrect timing setting and a bunch of other stuff.
Don't mess with the AFM.
 

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The CHTS is THE most important sensor that your AFM looks at for enrichment. A bad sensor or disconnected wire will cause the ECU to go super super rich. You can get a new Bosch style connector kit for your entire engine bay several places. Your AFM connector is also a good place to look for issues. Again dont mess with the AFM.
 

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So i tried to take her out on the road today for the first time in 15 years, but she had a distinct lack of power and only revs to 3k, she doesnt struggle to rev to 3k tho, shes banging off 3k like its a rev limiter, and idles higher than i want her too, and runs a little rough under idle, please help
I'm getting my 2/80ZX back to running condition. Has its days where it runs like a top in the garage. One item that is missed allot is the vacuum advance diaphram unit. Mine is shot. Junkyard unit from Georgia, is shot. So keeps real nice 10 degree BTC but does not advance with increase of engine RPM/Vacuum..a "Leak" so to speak. So another item you might look into also
 

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If you get no advance at all, your mechanical is stuck also. You need to pull and rebuild the distributor. This is a fantastic write up on how to:
http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/distributorrebuild/index.html
There is a guy that has reproduced the plastic bearing retainer that is most likely broken in your distributor. Look in the parts for sale or google 280zx breaker plate bearing retainer.
 

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If you get no advance at all, your mechanical is stuck also. You need to pull and rebuild the distributor. This is a fantastic write up on how to:
http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/distributorrebuild/index.html
There is a guy that has reproduced the plastic bearing retainer that is most likely broken in your distributor. Look in the parts for sale or google 280zx breaker plate bearing retainer.
I have a similar problem to the original author I have mechanical advance I figured out my vacuum advance lines were placed in the wrong sports could you provide me a pictures on how to connect the vacuum lines on the vacuum advance connected to the distributor for a 1981 280zx N/A? the fsm diagram is very confusing.
 

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On my 79 there is a nipple on the bottom front of the throttle body. Vacuum line goes from that to a T fitting. From there one goes to the distributor and the other to the evap canister.


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On my 79 there is a nipple on the bottom front of the throttle body. Vacuum line goes from that to a T fitting. From there one goes to the distributor and the other to the evap canister.


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I have a line that connect to the throttle advance and breaks off into 2 directions. The first I assume goes to the vacuum connector on the thermostat housing from there I have a line that goes into a one way valve then splits into 2 when it gets to this point I get confused due to the fact theres 1 nipples on the throttle body and 2 more connected to another assembly (I forget the name has 3 vacuum prongs on it)
 
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