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I have read a number of posts on the forum asking why the black fuse link in the box gets melted, hard, and open. The reason is to much current draw through the link. This can happen for a number of reasons, but the most common is a high power stereo.
I had this problem also because I have a high power stereo and use it at about 70 Amps. When you drive at night and use the amp the current draw through the link becomes excessive and that is when you start having problems.
The system is wired in such a way that the wires that come from the box to the battery plus is the common feed for the car, fuel injection, ECU, and the rest of the links what ever they supply.
the alternator white wire comes from the alternator, to the fus link box, picktails off to the rest of the system, to the black link and then to the battery.
All of the current the Alternator is developing according to the load goes through the black link. So you can see how it can get burned up, along with the spade lug connector that connects the alternator wire to the fuse link box.
To correct this problem you can run a seperate heavy gauge wire from the alternator to the starter positive post as that is directly to the battery.
You may or may not want to use a large fuse on the wire, myself I did not, and I ran a #4 wire and connectors for the wire. You would want to use a fuse that will accept the maximum rating of the alternator, in the case of a stock alternator 65 Amps.
This way, you dont have all the current from the alternator to the battery to charge the battery going through the system. This way, you can run the system just like stock and still get the high current requirements and not toast your main B+ feed to the rest of the car, the fuse links will still work and everything is happy.
REGARDS: Jeffp
 
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