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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have my car (automatic) in the shop. The car had no spark, and after replacing the ignition control module or transistor control module under the passenger side dash, the car is now running. The ignition timing is set correctly. The fuel pump is noisy. I recently installed a fuel pump purchased at Advanced Auto for $89 and installed it myself. I put new spark plug wires, a distributor cap and rotor on the car recently. In addition, a new fuel pressure regulator, temp. sensor and voltage regulator were recently installed. I replaced all of the fuel injectors with second hand ones.

However, it is missing pretty bad at engine idle and reving because of what he termed as irregular voltage observed with the fuel injection wiring. He says that the plug connections at the injectors are not the problem, but the problem is somewhere in the fuel injection or ignition system electrical wiring. They are working to locate the problem.

Has anyone experienced this sort of problem and know what the erratic voltage or idle problem might be? The connections are clean. I did notice some blue fouling at the air pressure regulator (adjacent to the cold start valve) electrical connection and had cleaned the connection with contact cleaner. Thank you.
 

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> I have my car (automatic) in the shop. The
> car had no spark, and after replacing the
> ignition control module or transistor
> control module under the passenger side
> dash, the car is now running. The ignition
> timing is set correctly. The fuel pump is
> noisy. I recently installed a fuel pump
> purchased at Advanced Auto for $89 and
> installed it myself. I put new spark plug
> wires, a distributor cap and rotor on the
> car recently. In addition, a new fuel
> pressure regulator, temp. sensor and voltage
> regulator were recently installed. I
> replaced all of the fuel injectors with
> second hand ones.

> However, it is missing pretty bad at engine
> idle and reving because of what he termed as
> irregular voltage observed with the fuel
> injection wiring. He says that the plug
> connections at the injectors are not the
> problem, but the problem is somewhere in the
> fuel injection or ignition system electrical
> wiring. They are working to locate the
> problem.

> Has anyone experienced this sort of problem
> and know what the erratic voltage or idle
> problem might be? The connections are clean.
> I did notice some blue fouling at the air
> pressure regulator (adjacent to the cold
> start valve) electrical connection and had
> cleaned the connection with contact cleaner.
> Thank you.

Did he test for irregular voltage or is it a guess. I've had similiar problems with the air regulator not functioning properly and the bcdd valve doing wierd things. I replaced the air regulator I still have yet to figure out what I did to the bcdd valve to make it stop. Everything worked alot better after the air regulaotr was replaced. I just pulled one off another car. Sam 75 280z
 

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Try replacing your air-flow meter
this has alot to dowiththe air intake and the injection intake
I had a bad one on my '78 and replacing it made it run smoother at idle speed and gave it alot of power
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
> Did he test for irregular voltage or is it a
> guess. I've had similiar problems with the
> air regulator not functioning properly and
> the bcdd valve doing wierd things. I
> replaced the air regulator I still have yet
> to figure out what I did to the bcdd valve
> to make it stop. Everything worked alot
> better after the air regulaotr was replaced.
> I just pulled one off another car. Sam 75
> 280z

The mechanic claimed that electrical testing performed so far indicated irregular voltage, but he suspected that it was from the fuel injection or ignition wiring systems. So he was continuing to check the electrical wires this p.m. Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
> I have my car (automatic) in the shop. The
> car had no spark, and after replacing the
> ignition control module or transistor
> control module under the passenger side
> dash, the car is now running. The ignition
> timing is set correctly. The fuel pump is
> noisy. I recently installed a fuel pump
> purchased at Advanced Auto for $89 and
> installed it myself. I put new spark plug
> wires, a distributor cap and rotor on the
> car recently. In addition, a new fuel
> pressure regulator, temp. sensor and voltage
> regulator were recently installed. I
> replaced all of the fuel injectors with
> second hand ones.

> However, it is missing pretty bad at engine
> idle and reving because of what he termed as
> irregular voltage observed with the fuel
> injection wiring. He says that the plug
> connections at the injectors are not the
> problem, but the problem is somewhere in the
> fuel injection or ignition system electrical
> wiring. They are working to locate the
> problem.

> Has anyone experienced this sort of problem
> and know what the erratic voltage or idle
> problem might be? The connections are clean.
> I did notice some blue fouling at the air
> pressure regulator (adjacent to the cold
> start valve) electrical connection and had
> cleaned the connection with contact cleaner.
> Thank you.

Well, I picked up the car today and drove it 10 miles home. The mechanic told me that it hesitates upon acceleration. He said the ignition timing is set correctly; however, I notice when in drive (automatic) the car was idling at about 1,100 rpm. He thinks old gas might explain the hesitation. He said although the fuel pressure is allright, the fuel pump (new Advanced Auto fuel pump) is very noisy.

When I parked the car, and reved the engine to a steady 5,000 rpm, I notice that the engine oscillates +/-250 rpm. I turned the engine off and immediately tried to restart it, but it would not crank. It clicks. In addition, the engine was smoking. After opening the hood, there appears to be a leak toward the front of the radiator cap near the top of the radiator grill.

Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks.
 

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snip... I turned the
> engine off and immediately tried to restart
> it, but it would not crank. It clicks. ...snip

The clicking, which I observed in my 78 was due to a bad ignition switch. I narrowed it down to this after taking apart the ignition relay under the passenger side of the dash and verifying that it was working properly. and then I removed the switch part of the ignition off the steering column and turned it with a large screwdriver. the car started every time.

Sorry I can't help you with the rest of your problems, although it may be a vaccum issue, dirty injectors? The smoke is probably just oils or gasket compounds from the shop. THey will burn off after time.
 
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