Depends what you mean by "bad" and if you are willing to live with it or not. I love my early 260z (unique in so many ways).
260z? Yes or no?
So I have heard some bad talk about 260z's. Well my question is, should I get one or wait it out for a 240 or 280? Its a great deal that runs and drives...
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Same here, I love my early 260z. Everyone thinks its a 240 and are surprised when you tell them, no its a 260z. I don't think they have anymore problems then a 240 would have.
If its a toss up between the two, go for the 260z. Its a mix of the best aspects of a 240z and 280z. If its a great deal, go for it. Would love to hear more about it.
What constitutes a great deal in this case? Details? Surely the consensus around here is that a great deal matters more than whether it's a 40, 60, or 80.
I dont care if its a 40, 60, or 80. I am worried because everyone I know said the carbs suck on 60's. Otherwise I prefer the thin bumpers and carbs over FI. This just happens to be the only one in my price range on the local Craigslist that hasnt been mangled so I am just asking.
260s with original carbs is highly unlikely. There could be some left. Did you call em?
No phone number, waiting for an email back. How could I tell at a glance if they are original carbs?
Carbs can be changed. I love my 280z, although it is not what you would call stock. If you plan on putting a lot of work into the car anyway, buy the beast deal you can find with the least rust. Most of the major differences can be changed between the 240 through 280, and the ones that can't, easily at least (structural differences, minor sheet metal differences...) wouldn't be a deal breaker if one car was in much better condition that an other candidate. As far as I'm concerned, they're all S30s!
- 260z early version
- SU dome carbs
- Remove all the seatbelt/starter interlocks
How can you complain about this?
- SU dome carbs
- Remove all the seatbelt/starter interlocks
How can you complain about this?
I have a 260Z with the flattops. It runs great with them, and I don't see any need to change them.
Delasangre4231,
The only time I hear people that are discussing trash talk about 260's is from a 260 owner worried someone may be doing the talking.
The one thing from spooking around here for years that I do remember is an open agreement that the parts different to a 260 from the other models can be difficult to get and that makes them less popular as a choice. Nothing about how they run but rather because of only being out for a short time......
The only time I hear people that are discussing trash talk about 260's is from a 260 owner worried someone may be doing the talking.
The one thing from spooking around here for years that I do remember is an open agreement that the parts different to a 260 from the other models can be difficult to get and that makes them less popular as a choice. Nothing about how they run but rather because of only being out for a short time......
Worry about rust. Your only concern when looking at a 240-280 should be rust. If it is solid in the floor pans, frame rails, battery tray, and rear quarters, then it's a find. Changing carbs on a 260 is a minor detail. I hate the big bumpers on a later 260 but you can take them off.I have a 73 240 which had the same carb setup as a 260, it took me a couple hours to switch them.
Is it an early 260Z or a late one? Early 260 has smaller 240Z-looking bumpers, late 260Z has larger 280Z-looking bumpers.
As mentioned, the later "big bumpers" can be removed/replaced with something more agreeable-looking if that's an issue for you...
Carbs are also easily addressed.
Anyway, if having minimum weight isn't a big priority (240's are considerably lighter-weight), I wouldn't worry about 240 vs. 260 vs. 280, just get the cleanest one you can find with the least amount of rust (thorough inspection of underbody/fenderwells/etc.).
As mentioned, the later "big bumpers" can be removed/replaced with something more agreeable-looking if that's an issue for you...
Carbs are also easily addressed.
Anyway, if having minimum weight isn't a big priority (240's are considerably lighter-weight), I wouldn't worry about 240 vs. 260 vs. 280, just get the cleanest one you can find with the least amount of rust (thorough inspection of underbody/fenderwells/etc.).
Best aspect of 240Z: 2300-2350 lb. curb weight (260Z = 300+ lb. heavier)heroe said:If its a toss up between the two, go for the 260z. Its a mix of the best aspects of a 240z and 280z.
Best aspect of 280Z: ~15% more power (260Z has no more power than 240Z)
Nothing particularly against the 260Z, but for me it doesn't combine the best aspects of the 240 (light weight) and 280 (more power)...
260z is lighter than a 280z, Stiffer than a 240z, and it has a stroked 240z motor with the hottest stock cam and bigger intake. That should tell you what you need to know.
I ended up with a 260 simply because it was in fantastic shape. Didn't let it sway my decision either way over a 240.
As others have discussed make sure you get a clean body and the rest can be easily addressed if you want to start changing things.
The body stampings are the same, they have a more rigid frame structure, the dash has little nicer layout and the interior is more plush. The 240 is certainly the more desirable from a purest standpoint but the 260 is the last version before they became all porky from fuel injection, bumpers and a number of other safety nazi requirements.
If it's a clean one--go for it.
Dean
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As others have discussed make sure you get a clean body and the rest can be easily addressed if you want to start changing things.
The body stampings are the same, they have a more rigid frame structure, the dash has little nicer layout and the interior is more plush. The 240 is certainly the more desirable from a purest standpoint but the 260 is the last version before they became all porky from fuel injection, bumpers and a number of other safety nazi requirements.
If it's a clean one--go for it.
Dean
And slower than either, in a straight line or around a road course.heroe said:260z is lighter than a 280z, Stiffer than a 240z,
But makes no more power than a '70-'72 240Z. That "hotter" cam and bigger intake don't amount to much in terms of power, even coupled with additional displacement in the 260Z and bigger exhaust valve, not enough to make up for the compression ratio drop vs. '70-'72.and it has a stroked 240z motor with the hottest stock cam and bigger intake.
Dude, the 260Z is a great car, but there's absolutely no reason for you to delude yourself that it combines the "best" attributes of the 240 with the "best" attributes of the 280. It simply doesn't.That should tell you what you need to know.
For most purposes, most S30 buyers are going to be best off buying the car in the best condition with the least rust, be it a 240, 260, or 280Z. They're all good.
Ya, anyways, thanks for all the input. I am in no way prejudice towards any of the Z's. I think I am going to listen to the people saying "its still an s30"...
Basically my main goal is a stickshift and carbs. Rust can be repaired as long as the car drives.
Basically my main goal is a stickshift and carbs. Rust can be repaired as long as the car drives.
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