Sounds like a carb issue... all original?
Post Edited (Nov 8, 8:54am)
Post Edited (Nov 8, 8:54am)
260 still dying under load?
I did a standard tune-up, with the following:
*New rotor & cap,
*Split-fire plugs & new wires,
*MSD coil,
*Fuel filter.
It starts and runs better than ever, but it still cannot be driven. It will die, without any sputtering or hesitation, before I can get out of 2nd gear [the car is a 4-speed manual]. I checked all of the wires behind the ignition - all secure with no corrosion or loose fitting. Since it acts as though the fuel is cutting off, I checked the electric fuel pump near the tank and it's functioning.
I had no way to bench-test the ignition module, but noted that it was 'hot" to the touch after trying to drive it. I've since loaded it onto a flat-bed and delivered to my trusty local auto shop, and they still haven't figured it out after a week 1/2! Last talk we had, the tech felt it might be a carburetion problem [it runs very rich at idle]. Two questions for you guys:
1. The tech bench-tested the ignition module, and said it tested fine. Could this still be the problem? If it's intermittent, and the car starts and runs, it probably would bench-test fine. Right?
2. Is it possible that, although it is functioning, the electric fuel pump is not supplying enough fuel?
Thanks for all contributions and suggestions!!
-Rob
*New rotor & cap,
*Split-fire plugs & new wires,
*MSD coil,
*Fuel filter.
It starts and runs better than ever, but it still cannot be driven. It will die, without any sputtering or hesitation, before I can get out of 2nd gear [the car is a 4-speed manual]. I checked all of the wires behind the ignition - all secure with no corrosion or loose fitting. Since it acts as though the fuel is cutting off, I checked the electric fuel pump near the tank and it's functioning.
I had no way to bench-test the ignition module, but noted that it was 'hot" to the touch after trying to drive it. I've since loaded it onto a flat-bed and delivered to my trusty local auto shop, and they still haven't figured it out after a week 1/2! Last talk we had, the tech felt it might be a carburetion problem [it runs very rich at idle]. Two questions for you guys:
1. The tech bench-tested the ignition module, and said it tested fine. Could this still be the problem? If it's intermittent, and the car starts and runs, it probably would bench-test fine. Right?
2. Is it possible that, although it is functioning, the electric fuel pump is not supplying enough fuel?
Thanks for all contributions and suggestions!!
-Rob
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I haven't done any mods under the hood, with the exception of the MSD coil. The carb setup is original.
The $1,000. question IS: "Did it have the same stalling problem before you put on these lovely parts?" Norm k.
Yes. I haven't been able to drive the car for 2 months. I've posted a number of times on this site in the past, as well as calling several local auto techs, and every response I get suggests that it is electrical [ignition module having been suggested several times]. This is because of the way it dies - no sputtering or hesitation. The shop that has my car now seems to think, after trying to drive it, that the problem might be fuel-related after all. Yet they haven't pinned the problem. You can paypal that Grand to my yahoo address : )
During the tune-up, I attempted to drive the car after each item was changed. I wanted to eliminate possible sources of the problem one step at a time. Like I said, it actually runs and idles better than before.
During the tune-up, I attempted to drive the car after each item was changed. I wanted to eliminate possible sources of the problem one step at a time. Like I said, it actually runs and idles better than before.
have you checked your fuel pressure? have you checked your fuel filter? i mean, after i installed mine, it INSTANTLY got clogged and spitted out red/orange gas, due to my rusty tank....
do you still have the manual fuel pump on the engine?if so check it,also check the dizzy.
1 - 8 of 8 Posts
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