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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 71 240Z convertible with an elctrical problem. After the car sat for over three months the battery was dead. I removed it, recharged it and put it back in. Upon reinstalling it I heard some crackling noise pointing me to a blown fuse somewhere. The contacts may have been put on in reverse initally (product of doing work at 2am).
The result now is no response from the ignition or key in on position. No dash lights, the exterior lamps will not illuminate, though the horn and hazard lights work. All fuses in the fuse box appear to be fine.
I'm about to do a very time consuming voltmeter check of the system. Any thoughts or help here would be appreciated.

Thanks in advance-
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
RE: Check fusable link

probably the same place as the ' 72. white connector thing attached to your starter solenoid. very likely the prob
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Hi Derek,

The horn and the hazard flashers are on a different circuit than the rest. They come off the fusible link attached to the starter. Power gets to the fuse block on a skinny white wire. Obviously, this stuff still works. Another branch of this circuit goes to the ammeter.

The other circuits are powered off a big fat white/red wire from the alternator. There's supposed to be another fusible link on the alternator output feeding this wire, but often it isn't there. This wire goes to the fuse block via one of the big fat white wires on the fuse block. The other big fat white wire from the fuse block (the two big white wires are connected together on the fuse block) goes to the ammeter, accessory relay, and ignition switch.

When the engine is off, this circuit is all powered through the ammeter. I'd start by disconnecting the output wire from the alternator and see if it has 12 volts on it. Don't let the wire short to ground!! It should have 12 volts on it when the ignition switch is off. If it doesn't, it's either the fuseblock, or more likely a toasted ammeter. Try moving one of the ammeter connections to the other terminal (connect both wires to the same terminal, doesn't matter which one) and see if it fixes the problem. If so, your ammeter is dead. If not, check the wiring on the fuse block.

If it's ok when the alternator is disconnected, then maybe reversing the battery fried the alternator. I'd get it tested next.

Let me know what happens and I'll try to help.

Good luck,

Pat

NOTE: The above applies to 240Z only. Do NOT try to apply it to a 260 or 280.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
<b>Yea, Like Shooz Said....</b>

In other words check all the wires connected to the starter. If that's ok... check to see if the resistor is connected below the coil..

Dennis
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
RE: Yea, Like Shooz Said....

Sorry to disagree, but the stuff that's powered through the fusible link on the starter (horn and hazard lights) WORKS! It's the stuff on the other side of the ammeter that doesn't.

It sure won't hurt to check the starter connections, but I doubt that the problem is there.

Pat
 
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