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was the car stalling and dying before the new battery and alternator? doesn't sound like your ignitor since it is starting... and you don't have an ignition control module box to worry about... I am thinking you might have some vacuum leaks somewhere. possibly and out of adjustment AFM. check around that area and the rubber boots and make sure you aren't getting any leaks.

the harnesses on these cars usually all came the same throughout the years and have different plugs and wires that may not be attached to anything on your particular year, but maybe went to something on a previous year. my 76 is like that... a few plugs and connections here and there that don't go to anything.

get the factory service manual for your year Z and read up on the troubleshooting, and also get the turbo supplement and fuel injection bible. since you have a turbo, these extra guides will be your friends.

Bon
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Yes it was stalling and dying already, I hoped those would fix it but they didn’t. The out of adjustment AFM could be the problem, you have a pic of where it’s at by any chance? I’ve watched multiple videos and I swear to goodness it’s just not there on mine haha, Idk if maybe the previous owner could have done some work to run it without an AFM or what
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I think it has to be electrical, when I put the battery on a charger for awhile and then drive it’s fine. I also revved it at 2000 rpms for a little bit and it charged the battery a couple days ago with the alternator, but it keeps dying eventually. I don’t understand
 

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Could be a bad new alternator. Check battery voltage with the car off, should be 12.5ish and then check it with the car running, it should be 14.5ish. These alternators need abut 800 rpm for the charging to start.
Have you turned the lights off in the garage and removed one of the battery cables and touched it to the battery to see if you get a spark? If you do, pull the fuses and keep checking. If the spark continues pull the fusible links and recheck. If the spark is still there with all the fused and the links pulled you know its on the lead side of the fuses and links.
 

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Here is a picture of the back of my alternator on an '82 280ZXT. Doesn't seem to have a red wire connected...

Here is also a picture of a red wire (like in your pic) that looks like it's for the bay light.
Do you have the bay light? Connected and working?

Also in this area is the injector fan that also has a red wire (see pic).

Do any of these help?

Land vehicle Automotive tire Automotive fuel system Vehicle brake Motor vehicle


Automotive lighting Automotive fuel system Gas Electrical wiring Wire




Wood Gas Tints and shades Metal Pipe


Automotive fuel system Motor vehicle Vehicle Gas Auto part
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Yes thank you the bay light is connected and working. I was checking fuseable links and noticed one is completely missing. I’ll attach the picture
Motor vehicle Vehicle Automotive exterior Vehicle door Bumper

Automotive tire Motor vehicle Hood Bumper Automotive lighting
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Here is a picture of the back of my alternator on an '82 280ZXT. Doesn't seem to have a red wire connected...

Here is also a picture of a red wire (like in your pic) that looks like it's for the bay light.
Do you have the bay light? Connected and working?

Also in this area is the injector fan that also has a red wire (see pic).

Do any of these help?

View attachment 111296

View attachment 111297



View attachment 111298

View attachment 111299
What’s the wire plugged in at the top of your alternator? Looks like something goes there on mine but idk what
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·

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Got a new alternator and new battery, still losing power / stalling out when idling. Runs fine and has power when rpms are higher but stalls every time it idles for too long. Noticed these wires hanging by my alternator, any idea where they go? I circled them in the pic
these wires are for the cooling fan for injectors.
 

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The empty hole you circled is for a different application, not for a Z or ZX. That is a reman alternator and it fits numerous Japanese cars. You are not missing a wire on your fusible link like you thought, that's an unused hole. The black link in front of it is for the alternator and a few other items. It sounds like you have a defective alternator, very common out there. If you buy an alternator or starter from a budget auto parts store for these cars you're setting yourself up for failure. They have about a 65% failure ratio on these cars, especially if they claim that the alternator has a lifetime warranty. That's just bait to get a sale. Check the voltage at the hot lead on the alternator with a volt meter with the engine not running and then with the engine running just like Kickstand mentioned. That was good advice however NEVER, NEVER, NEVER disconnect a battery cable with the engine running. That can only be done on cars with a generator. Do that on an alternator car and the alternator can go into an overload mode and burn out all kinds of items. It may not happen every time but it's not worth the risk. Z man of Washington
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Got a working alternator, 1 of the wires wasn’t plugged in correctly so my battery light was staying on with the car off and keys out. Got it plugged in correctly and the battery light turned off. However now all of my dash lights are on when the car is running and my battery won’t even charge when I plug in a battery charger, any ideas?
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
The empty hole you circled is for a different application, not for a Z or ZX. That is a reman alternator and it fits numerous Japanese cars. You are not missing a wire on your fusible link like you thought, that's an unused hole. The black link in front of it is for the alternator and a few other items. It sounds like you have a defective alternator, very common out there. If you buy an alternator or starter from a budget auto parts store for these cars you're setting yourself up for failure. They have about a 65% failure ratio on these cars, especially if they claim that the alternator has a lifetime warranty. That's just bait to get a sale. Check the voltage at the hot lead on the alternator with a volt meter with the engine not running and then with the engine running just like Kickstand mentioned. That was good advice however NEVER, NEVER, NEVER disconnect a battery cable with the engine running. That can only be done on cars with a generator. Do that on an alternator car and the alternator can go into an overload mode and burn out all kinds of items. It may not happen every time but it's not worth the risk. Z man of Washington
Got a working alternator, 1 of the wires wasn’t plugged in correctly so my battery light was staying on with the car off and keys out. Got it plugged in correctly and the battery light turned off. However now all of my dash lights are on when the car is running and my battery won’t even charge when I plug in a battery charger, any ideas? I appreciate it
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
these wires are for the cooling fan for injectors.
Got a working alternator, 1 of the wires wasn’t plugged in correctly so my battery light was staying on with the car off and keys out. Got it plugged in correctly and the battery light turned off. However now all of my dash lights are on when the car is running and my battery won’t even charge when I plug in a battery charger, any ideas?
 
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