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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello Forums! First post here! Hopefully I can find some answers!

Car is an 82 Datsun 280ZX Turbo. Main issue I'm having is a rough idle. Has been sitting for a couple years but in an air conditioned garage. Started it every couple months and it always started right up. Planning to get it drivable again in the next couple weeks. I blew the old style drive shaft and next week it is getting brand new yolks, u joints, and a new drive shaft. What's with this staked in crap? $400 for new driveline with snap ring u joints and shop to swap it.

Anyway! The main issue now is the driveshaft (Getting fixed) but it also has a rough idle. Replaced a lot of vacuum lines, new plugs, wires, cap, rotor, had the injectors cleaned, replaced the plugs going into the injectors as they were very worn out, new fuel filter.

A local shop recommended replacing the Auxiliary air valve or Idle Air Control Valve. Just wondering if anyone here has any recommendations or trouble shooting tips.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Just to add some more detail....

Before replacing everything listed above, when I started the car it would run well, still rough idle but running. After a few minutes I would shut it off. Within a few minutes if I tried to start it again, it wouldn't start. Exhaust smelled rich and could not get it to start.

A friend suggested that the injectors could be gummed up or not firing. He suspected one injector was flooding a cylinder after the car shut off. After that I had the injectors cleaned, replaced everything else listed above. Haven't tried to start it again yet, awaiting rotor. Hoping to replace anything else that could be causing these issue before I try to start it again.
 

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One thing to look at is the boot/hose that the intake goes from the AFM to the actual intake. They can develop hairline cracks and will allow un-metered air into the system.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thank you Skittle,

I replaced all the vacuum lines including the line from the AFM to the intake. Test them with carb cleaner and couldn't find any leaks.

Any other ideas? Anyone care to let me know why no one is responding to either thread I have posted?
 

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. Haven't tried to start it again yet, awaiting rotor. Hoping to replace anything else that could be causing these issue before I try to start it again.
Any other ideas? Anyone care to let me know why no one is responding to either thread I have posted?
Your posts are kind of vague and have left out the details that the hundreds of other threads on the same problem ask about. And, even more important, you haven't even tried to start it again. You could get 20 replies worth of suggestions then come back and say " it started and ran just fine after the tuneup, thanks anyway".

Come back when you know if you really have a problem.
 

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Also, you didn't mention spark plugs. Maybe an oversight in writing, but if not, they should be checked and/or replaced.

And check the CHTS resistance at the ECU connector. If it's too high, you'll get the gassy smell and the dying.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
What other details are necessary? I included the problem I am having, what I have done to fix it and the year make and model of the car. According to this forum sticky's, that is what is expected in each post.

Since I posted this, I did start it. It ran great for about 5 minutes. Shut it off for about 3-4 minutes and it wouldn't start again. Could hear the fuel pump running, spark at the plugs was good, just wouldn't kick over.

How's that for a real problem? No need to be rude...
 

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You seemed like someone who thinks that site is a service for people with problems. It's not. You get out what you put in, only if people feel like replying.

So here, you've shown that you did try to start it after doing all of that work, but you forgot to tell anyone. No updates, no thanks for the help, just "me, me, me". Now that is rude. But typical of many kids today.

CHTS. New spark plugs. You didn't address either of the suggestions I made.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Apologies I missed your other response. Would definitely help on the forums if I saw a problem I have experienced. Unfortunately I am not an expert and haven't seen something I can help with yet. As to your comment about me being a rude kid, clearly you only have experience with the stupid kids who give my generation a bad name. On behalf of them, I'm sorry. I do appreciate any help I receive from these forums. : )

I did mention the spark plugs in my original post. "vacuum lines, new plugs, wires, cap, rotor". I didn't update when I tried to start it because I didn't have any responses. No one had offered suggestions so there was no one to update.

Will check the resistance of the Cylinder Head Temperature Sensor at the ECU connection. Any guidance on the spectrum of acceptable resistance?
 

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You seemed like someone who thinks that site is a service for people with problems. It's not. You get out what you put in, only if people feel like replying.

So here, you've shown that you did try to start it after doing all of that work, but you forgot to tell anyone. No updates, no thanks for the help, just "me, me, me". Now that is rude. But typical of many kids today.

CHTS. New spark plugs. You didn't address either of the suggestions I made.
You are an a hole boy. hopefully you've smartened up over the years
 
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