1982 280zx N/A Questions

Rust is a bitch. You have to grind it out and seal it with Por15 or chassis saver. $1200 seems to be your deciding factor. Can you do it yourself? Anything you do with this car that has to be taken to a garage will quickly add up. Two things I look for is the dash and AC. Is the dash not cracked...wow what a find. Does the AC work? If not, that can be a chore. Mine worked for 2 hours after I got it. The PO had converted to R-134. The pressures were good, just no cold air. Long story short, I ended up completely disassembling the AC system, cleaning the expansion valve (which involved removing the dash), draining, cleaning the system and converting back to R-12. Now it puts out close to 35 degree cold.

If the engine is ticking and then stops, it sounds like maybe the oil ports are restricted and finally opens up once warmed. So you might wants to run a few cans of seafoam thru it.

But Blackman is right, you can easily spend 1000's you'll never get back. I'm just glad we can discuss the value of cars at ZCAR, over at HybridZ they want you to discuss anything financial with a stockbroker. So if you question why some moron gave a garage $21,000 of his $25,000 budget to fix a S130 instead of just buying a 3 yr old 350Z and then crying b/c nothing had been done to his car, they tell you not to discuss value of investments there. That could also be the reason there have only been a page of posts in the last 6 mos.

I gave it a pretty good 20 minute twice over looking for rust, and other then the spots I mentioned I really couldnt find more. No frame rust, floors were pristine. Really the worst spot is under the front fender where the owner probably hit a curb or one of those cement parking blocks, and around the gas cap, which Im looking to price out just replacing the whole panel. I didnt get to check under the center of the car, but I brought a flashlight and checked as far in as I could see.

All the gauges worked but oil pressure seemed a bit finicky about when it would work, dash looks almost out of the factory, no cracks or marks (just a little dusty). The A/C and heater both worked, although the sensor for automatic climate control is out so its either off or full blast.

My goal for this car is to have some fun with it and learn a bit about fixing cars. I don't mind having to do some work and consider that a bonus. Really the only stuff I cant do myself (Yet!) is the complex mechanical things, but with a good repair manual (which I already downloaded) I can probably muddle my way through it. The previous owner has had it since August, and he bought it from the original owner who kept it garaged and took it out once every couple months.

jas280Z said:

If you want to see what just "a little rust in the normal spots" can turn into when doing a restoration, check the link in my signature.

Click to expand...

**** thats a pretty car. I don't have near the facilities to do something like that, but I have a lift in an auto shop I can borrow and maybe some tools. I think my goal is to learn off this car, so if I **** something up its not alot invested, then down the road I'll know enough to pick up a 240z or 280z and really make it shine.

It does not have a t-top, and the craigslist post had no photos. When I took it for a spin yesterday, I had too much fun and ran laps down a twisty road till it got dark. I meant to grab photos but just never got to it. If I end up seeing it again today I promise to grab as many as I can.

One thing I forgot to mention, the clutch is probably the smoothest action Ive ever encountered, absolute butter going in. The thing about the transmission is that the gear lever is loose as ****, wiggles side to side 2-3 inches on its own when in neutral going around a turn. I imagine its fairly easy to fix that.

It has a red leather interior, red carpets, and o fade on the inside back carpet. The passenger seat is nearly pristine, but the driver seat is a bit thrashed, small rips, folds, and fading on it.

So I picked it up, only got 1 photo of my phone so far, its being a bitch about the rest but Ill take some much nicer ones tomorrow.

First impressions so far, shocks need replacing its far bumpier then I would like on our shitty CA roads. There is an audible click occasionally when the car is at lower revs, say 1-2.5k or so. Brakes could be stronger, e-brake has to point nearly straight up (probably needs a cable tightening) I drove the car about ~20 minutes from a cold stop, then I stopped turned the engine off for 5 mins, and it had a little trouble starting up again. Its cold as **** out though so that could be part of it. The interior is in far better condition then I originally anticipated, perfect dash, passenger seat, and carpets.

**** Im excited to own this baby and cant wait to get messing around with it!

edit: got a second photo

Hey be careful about the struts. When I got my 82 with 102k miles on it, I put it next to my 83 with new struts and springs. Yes the rear was shot...but the front was better than the 83 front with new shocks. We used to change the front struts as a matter of fact...but the truth is, they probably are ok and IMO the hydralic OEM are better than gas. In fact, When I had to go into my wife's maxima, the struts were OK, what needed replaced was the rubber bearing cap.

The noise you are hearing is probably the tie rods, maybe the ball joints, and probably the control arm bushings. Now I am all for pulling the strut (you'll need spring compressors, Harbor Freight for about $40 or rent from Autozone), wire brush it clean, repaint. While you are there replace the ball joint (there is 10 sets on Ebay for $15 for both), unless it is obviously OK (the ones on my pathfinder and maxima are still good with high mileage). You can go to NTB, etc and they will inspect it for free.

I did get my parts from Autozone or O'reilly just for the lifetime warranty. The tension rod bushings can be purchased from oreilly for $12 the set. The control arm bushings (need 2 total) are a bitch to replaced but can be done with a torch, vise and hacksaw...a press is even better.)

Well, Good luck. I'm excited for you. Take a look at mine by clicking on the signature.

Alright, picture update!

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part 2 - exterior

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[quote=heroe]
It should start up quick even in cold weather. The click bothers me, and the oil pressure. Are you hearing a whirr from the fuel pump when the key is switched to on?
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I just changed the oil, and replaced the valve cover because it looked like it had some leakage, the clicking is there but fades out the higher rpms the engine goes to. I heard the whirr from the fuel pump when the key was on. The oil gauge has been freaking out a little bit, usually sitting at the far left, but occasionally flicking up to the middle then back down. Not sure what that means or if the gauge is just bad.

1) Oil gauge: This is the pressure sending unit under the #3 plug. $35 at autozone lifetime warranty.
2) Back panels. Easily repairable if you get the right vinyl. Apply with 3m spray adhesive. See my pics.
3) Blackdragon sells a "dye" that is so close to the OEM color it is not funny. Even when new, there was multiple shades of red. This will take care of your strut covers and selected dash items. When I pulled my dash, I sprayed the metal piece by the windshield...mine had turned brown too.
4) Take a grinder to the gas cap area. Then seal with POR 15 or Chassis Saver. Bondo, smooth, prime, paint.
5) To do the top, the top chrome needs to be removed. Then there is a plastic strip that the chrome snaps into. I'm thinking this is glued to the metal. That will have to be removed. Then grinding, sealing, etc.
6) Hood will take some doing but a good body man can fix that...you might find one at a JY.
7) The back carpet isn't that bad but there is a place in SC that will provide the whole kit for about $250.
8) Biggest pain will come from that auto AC setup.

Im just going to find another hood, there is a guy in town who has a lot full of dead, dying, or revived Z cars from 1970 to early 90s. I just gotta find his contact info again and coax him into parting out to me.

I plan to strip the whole car and repaint, the white was done really terribly about 10 years ago. Im half tempted to do a british racing green but I might just redo the white. Your car looks absolutely gorgeous with that combo. I was considering a black exterior but I hate how they look dirtier then they are when you get a little dust on them.

Ive never taken a grinder to rust, and its been about 6 years since Ive done any welding or stuff like that. Do you have any tips on how to grind it out? If that rust is all the way through front and back should I just cut it off and replace with bondo? Maybe I should replace that entire rear quarter panel (and the roof, since it attaches there, and it would save me some rust work)

I have a question about your car, was the louvers on the back hard to install? I dont have the mountings I think but I really want to get some to put on. I also love those tinted light covers you have on the front, how pricey are those?

Most of my worry at this point is mechanical, since that is my least knowlegable area, I want to make sure it at least runs even if it looks shitty. I took it to my mechanic and was walked through replacing the valve cover and a few of the hoses so itll pass the smog visual check. Right now the major issue is the ticking and the issue starting. Mechanic told me that is probably the flywheel but isnt a necessary replacement at this point.

Ill probably hold off on dealing with the AC, I gave it a good smack early this morning and it works fine right now 8) Blows hot air and I can control the fan speed somewhat.