Water pump and radiator. has nothing to do with it. What freon was used (R-12 R-135) and what was in it before hand. R-12 oil is not compatible with R-135...it will gunk it up. So let's assume the entire system was cleaned properly and the correct oil used in the compressor with the proper freon.
The recirculation button is what activates the vent door to outside air. Yes it will help it cool as you will be running already cooled air across the evaporator core compared to heated outside air. I also believe it will shift the fan into overdrive. If that button does not lite up, it has dirty contacts on the inside; pull it apart and polish the contacts with emery cloth. I cannot remember if this switch can be removed without pulling the dash. I think it can...I had to clean mine but it was back in '07.
So let's do this. Run your idle up to 2000 rpm and turn on the AC on high. Stick a temperature probe ($5 at autozone) into the vent and report the temp. It should be about 40 degrees give or take. Mine puts out about 35. If this is not the case, it could be that you have blockage in your expansion valve. This is located in the evaporator and will involve removing the dash. (ask me how I know).
Assuming your temp is OK, pull the passenger knee panel and floor vent and crawl under there to get access to the blower. Turn your AC on high and see fast it turns. Now pull the fuse and hot wire it straight to the battery. check to see if there is any differences in speed. If so, that is another problem in correcting the auto air system.
Let's assume your temp is not OK. There is a vacuum operated heater valve that adjusts the amount of fluid flowing thru the heater core. If I recall it defaults to the open position. So even though you DO HAVE COLD AIR ACROSS THE EVAPORATOR...it then goes past the heater core which will raise the temperature.
SO...run a new vacuum hose to that heater valve. Suck on it and see if the arm operates properly. If not, then that may be the problem. If it works, run the hose back to the vacuum canister and I do not remember which nipple it connects to. If it doesn't work at that point, try hooking it directly to an intake vacuum port (of course eng must be running to get a vacuum). i.e., the problem may be that it is not getting vacuum from the canister or the magnetic vacuum solenoid is inop.
You could also disconnect the heater hoses ( I went to Oreilly and installed a manual shutoff valve on mine). See what the temp is now. Report back.
The recirculation button is what activates the vent door to outside air. Yes it will help it cool as you will be running already cooled air across the evaporator core compared to heated outside air. I also believe it will shift the fan into overdrive. If that button does not lite up, it has dirty contacts on the inside; pull it apart and polish the contacts with emery cloth. I cannot remember if this switch can be removed without pulling the dash. I think it can...I had to clean mine but it was back in '07.
So let's do this. Run your idle up to 2000 rpm and turn on the AC on high. Stick a temperature probe ($5 at autozone) into the vent and report the temp. It should be about 40 degrees give or take. Mine puts out about 35. If this is not the case, it could be that you have blockage in your expansion valve. This is located in the evaporator and will involve removing the dash. (ask me how I know).
Assuming your temp is OK, pull the passenger knee panel and floor vent and crawl under there to get access to the blower. Turn your AC on high and see fast it turns. Now pull the fuse and hot wire it straight to the battery. check to see if there is any differences in speed. If so, that is another problem in correcting the auto air system.
Let's assume your temp is not OK. There is a vacuum operated heater valve that adjusts the amount of fluid flowing thru the heater core. If I recall it defaults to the open position. So even though you DO HAVE COLD AIR ACROSS THE EVAPORATOR...it then goes past the heater core which will raise the temperature.
SO...run a new vacuum hose to that heater valve. Suck on it and see if the arm operates properly. If not, then that may be the problem. If it works, run the hose back to the vacuum canister and I do not remember which nipple it connects to. If it doesn't work at that point, try hooking it directly to an intake vacuum port (of course eng must be running to get a vacuum). i.e., the problem may be that it is not getting vacuum from the canister or the magnetic vacuum solenoid is inop.
You could also disconnect the heater hoses ( I went to Oreilly and installed a manual shutoff valve on mine). See what the temp is now. Report back.
