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Discussion Starter #21
I'd still like the pictures, but if you check here

http://www.thezstore.com/store/merchant.mvc?

They have heater valves for 72 and 75 as well as ZX. The bracket is what has changed. The valve is essentially the same. If you do not want to rebuild the one you have, then you could buy one of these and remove the valve from the bracket. It attaches by 2 screws. If you are not mechanically inclined, send them to me. Where are you located?
Palladin (and others);
The good news was that you were correct and it was the gasket. The bad news is that mechanically inclined friend figured bent the control valve (in vise) so that the screw holding the gasket is inop. In other words -- the valve is dead. Reading through your advise above -- it appears that my best road ahead is to purchase the valve for one of the other years (which is best?) adn mount it on the bracket that I have. Sound about right?
 

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77/78 are usually the same for parts but not quite sure for the valve. It might be the same as the 75-78...
 

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Everyone says just rebuild or swap from a newer nissan unit. Oh my god. This is one of those jobs where unless you have a 100% mint all original z, you have to fix nissans poor engineering.

Firstly there is the valve itself. If you have one with the glorious capillary tube, then your looking at removal of your console, heater controls, glove box, blower motor housing, both coolant lines at the firewall and all of that. The capillary tube adds an unruly amount of work to this task, does little if nothing after 30 years of service, and can not be serviced. Rebuild? Well, good luck finding the rebuild kit. Napa has "limited availability" on BK 6601000.... Anyone got another part number?????? There is someone rebuilding these valves for around 180. At the end of the day, if you do spend 180, or hours getting your valve diy'ed, you still have the same kind of "hard to find parts for" valve, with a worthless capillary tube, thats inordinately difficult to service.

Then, there are the likely ancient hoses, and these should be replaced. Well, they of course are formed hoses, and you have to order them from ni$$an, if you can even get them all, and if you do, will probably be 15+years old. Yay again.

Heres what to do about your heater valve:

Smile really really big and cut that capillary tube where ever you want. ( saves you center console and heater control removal. ) {{unless you want to sell your perfectly rebuild-able valve, with the capillary tube intact....}}

Go get Part # 74627 at o'reillys.
get a couple feet of 5/8" heater hose.
Go to home depot. get 2 brass pex 90degree fittings that fit in the 5/8" hose.
Look at this guys pic.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/76280z/3469501891/in/photostream/

Might have to shorten the temp cable to the valve.
Do away with this guys 10 buck a piece pre made bent hoses, using your pex 90 fittings and straight 5/8 hose.
Do away with this guys "death to hose" clamps and use ones like you took off.

Congrats, you restored your heat, fixed an engineers design flaw, and made future repairs possible in a fraction of the time. You also said F you to ni$$ans high prices. This should have cost less than 50, considering gas, and a nice cup of joe. And don't worry, no one will ever see your bronco heater valve.
 

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The "sticky" Palladin, referred to earlier works well! I have done two of them with no problems. Yeah sometimes you need to find the right "counter guy/parts dude" that will even listen to what you are doing.. gggrrrrrggghhhh. A good parts guy is worth a million bucks.
 

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I know this is old thread but I need to verify that I can use the "sticky" Palladin to fix my 78 280Z control valve? If yes then where can I buy the new gasket?
 

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I have just posted a video on fixing a leaking vacuum water **** (what it is called in the manual). Anyway, the vacuum valve for the heater, which seems to be a common issue. The video should be viewable tomorrow.

It is easy to do and much cheaper than replacing it. But if anone reading wants to jurry rig it, it is your perogative.

I don't have a rebuild on the lower manual valve (manipulated by the heater controls on the center console). But if it leaks I will add my fix here also. So the resource is more complete.

 
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