1990 NA AUTO to a 1990 TT AUTO - Nissan : Datsun ZCar forum :Nissan Z Forum: 240Z to 370Z
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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old 06-07-2001, 12:59 AM Thread Starter
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1990 NA AUTO to a 1990 TT AUTO

Well... I've only driven my Z once and fell in love and then the engine blew (I'm not going to go into details because it gets pretty nasty, but let's just say I'm not talking to a family member for awhile . I'm getting the wonderfull blue smoke and it looks like it has something to do with the rings and a rebuild is in order. What I wanted to know was, is it possible to change out the NA engine with a TT and what type of mods would be needed. If anybody has any info please let me know.
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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old 06-07-2001, 02:14 AM
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RE: 1990 NA AUTO to a 1990 TT AUTO

turbo's trans, cams...ect...lots and lots, it would be cheaper to actually buy a TT

Happiness is not around the corner, but IN the corner

GT 2871 Turbo's Baby....Say What? Yeah...HorsePower

1990 Fair Lady Z32TT Stage 16: Hella Mods
1992 Fair Lady Z32 Stage 6: Hella Mods
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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old 06-07-2001, 10:07 AM Thread Starter
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I think your right on that

I did do a little looking around and my wallet is not that big (I wish it was). Well let me ask you guys another question on the blue smoke thing, but first I'll give you a little background on what happened now that I'm cooled off.

I got my Z from my great uncle who lives about 90 miles away, my dad was visiting him and decided to tow the car down. When he towed it he did not disconnect the drive line and towed it on the rear wheels and he said he put it in N, but I don't know for sure. When I got the car I got in and turned it on and got a huge cloud of blue smoke, my dad claimed that the trany went out (He couldn't explain why I had blue smoke everywhere). So I took it to a shop to get it replaced and sure enough the trany had everything fused together on the inside and a cracked case, so I decided to get a new trany (It was only $700, I figured why not, it's an older car). The shop turned on the car and still got blue smoke, the checked the compression on the car and it was good so I'm thinking something like the rings might be blown (I don't know a lot about engines).

So my question is does anybody have any ideas what might be going on and how much this is going to cost me?

Thanks for listening to my sad story and any input in advance.
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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old 06-07-2001, 11:22 AM
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RE: I think your right on that

hey matt..when ur done with ur project/upgrade can u tell me how much u spend?..what u need to buy?..cams and stuff?..cuz i was planing to do a total TT engine/tranny swap..but if theres a cheaper way then please do tell=D...thanx
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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old 06-07-2001, 11:33 AM
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Rings, valves

Blue smoke indicates oil in the combustion chamber. Biggest causes are rings or valves. You can check for this by warming up engine, removing all the plugs and disconnecting the ptu. Do a compression check. Put a small amount of oil in each cylinder. If the compression increases significantly the rings are bad. If not...valve seats are worn. PS. Compression should be 140 - 175 if good and shouldn't be different between cylinders by more than 15 psi.

1990 Stage III TT
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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old 06-07-2001, 11:43 AM Thread Starter
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RE: Rings, valves

Thanks Cameron, I'm going to try and check the compression today to see what's going on. Chefy if I do go with the upgrade to a TT (Wallet willing ) I'll let you know how much it costs and what problems I ran into.
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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old 06-08-2001, 01:38 AM
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RE: Rings, valves

Something to try if it blows blue on start up and gets better after the engine warms up...

Sometimes if the oil hasn't been changed regularly and/or if some toad put additives into the oil then carbon can bulild up behind and around the oil ring. When the engine is cold the ring gets stuck in the groove and doesn't do its job well. A cheap test is to change the oil and filter and put in 10-W-40 high detergent Castrol and take it for a 100mile highway drive. This MAY clean up the carbon enough to let the ring free and solve the problem.

Even if it doesn't solve the problem when the mechanic pulls the head he/she can inspect the pistons and cylinder walls for burn pattern and tell if it just needs a valve grind, guides and seals; or if it needs a ring job too. They may tell you that if it needs rings to do the bottom end too but the bottom end bearings on Japanese cars are bullet proof and you will probably get away with out spending the extra $$$.

Of course if you do need the whole nine yards then do your research on modifications you should do at the same time to increase hp big time. Chek out Stillen and SGP Racing to see all the cool stuff you can do.

OR see about buying a used engine and swap... might be cheaper/faster.

One thing to do for sure is get a performance underdrive pulley, and REPLACE the timing belt and water pump and all the associated seals while you are at it.

BTW you should also search the archives on this site on NA / TT conversions which are apparently it will cost you upwards of $8,000 to switch everything over.

Holy smokes I'm starting to sound like I know something about this stuff... thanks to reading this forum and going thru some of this in the past couple months.

Bill Tozer
94 300ZX TT Convertible
77 280Z Project
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