Gas Gauge Problems Z31 87 - Nissan : Datsun ZCar forum :Nissan Z Forum: 240Z to 370Z
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post #1 of 5 (permalink) Old 04-20-2015, 10:33 PM Thread Starter
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Gas Gauge Problems Z31 87

I have a Z31 Non Turbo from 1987 and my gas gauge doesn't work but the previous owner says that the light turns on when she gets really low on gas but the gauge its self doesn't work (i have mechanical cluster) any ideas/tips on how i could fix it???
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post #2 of 5 (permalink) Old 04-21-2015, 01:08 AM
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If you look at the EL section of the factory manual on xenonz31under the fuel section you should see a 4-pin connector for the fuel pump/tank. #1 is 12V+, #2 the variable resistance wiper to the fuel gauge and #3 and #4 for the lower section of the in-tank gauge (with a different resistance range than the upper section above the "A" mark) which would go to the fuel light on the dash.
The electrical diagram for 3/4 shows a switch vs the variable resistance for the fuel gauge level.
Sounds like a dirty wiper which would have to be pulled and cleaned or the wiper arm contact is not making contact with the resistance strip or the conductive tip on the arm is dirty. It can be cleaned very carefully with a white mylar block office eraser. The arm can be gently bent to make contact.

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post #3 of 5 (permalink) Old 04-21-2015, 03:27 AM
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If the sender unit is the original cylindrical type, replace it with the later design with the float arms.
If the original cylindrical unit is currently working correctly, don't assume it will stay that way for any significant period.

To see if the main gauge or the wiring in between is working, disconnect the sender connector from the body harness.
At the body harness connector, use a jumper wire connect the B terminal to the Y/B terminal. Turn on the ignition. See if the main gauge needle starts to go full scale, and be prepared to turn the ignition off quickly. The gauge is not supposed to routinely get full voltage.
This is not as severe as it sounds since the sender resistance at "full" is approx 6-ohm, by the FSM.

Technically minded people might be inclined to use some carefully chosen resistors (using values gleaned from the FSM EL section) to use instead of a jumper wire to see if the gauge calibration is close to spec.

KHGZ31JAMG
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post #4 of 5 (permalink) Old 04-21-2015, 06:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mister_T View Post
If the sender unit is the original cylindrical type, replace it with the later design with the float arms.
If the original cylindrical unit is currently working correctly, don't assume it will stay that way for any significant period.

To see if the main gauge or the wiring in between is working, disconnect the sender connector from the body harness.
At the body harness connector, use a jumper wire connect the B terminal to the Y/B terminal. Turn on the ignition. See if the main gauge needle starts to go full scale, and be prepared to turn the ignition off quickly. The gauge is not supposed to routinely get full voltage.
This is not as severe as it sounds since the sender resistance at "full" is approx 6-ohm, by the FSM.

Technically minded people might be inclined to use some carefully chosen resistors (using values gleaned from the FSM EL section) to use instead of a jumper wire to see if the gauge calibration is close to spec.
what Mr. T said is best solution. Courtesy nissan used to carry the new style.

86T, 350 Nismo 08 (#1415) gone but fondly remembered 81T, 83T, 83, 85T, 86T, 96TT
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post #5 of 5 (permalink) Old 04-25-2015, 05:02 PM
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what Mr. T said is best solution. Courtesy nissan used to carry the new style.
The sending units are still available. I just received and installed a new one today, about 15 minutes work.
Got mine from Courtesy Nissan in Richardson TX, pt # 25060-17p65 $113.23 plus shipping.
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