This stuff has all been posted before I'm sure, but here's my experience with this project.
Parts List: (prices do not include shipping charges)
Moog Lower Ball Joints - $55.64
Moog Tie Rod Ends - $45.64
Moog Variable Rate Rear Springs - $43.99
KYB Front Strut Cartridges - $72.80
KYB Strut Boots - $23.86
KYB Strut Mounts - $42.54
KYB Strut Bearings - $23.86
KYB Rear Shock kit (bumpstops) - $41.21
KYB Rear Shocks - $76.80
Prothane Total Kit (bushings) - $144.68
Cuzco Strut Tower Brace - $214.95
Duralast Ceramic Brake Pads front and rear - $61.98
Remanufactured Rear Calipers - $159.98 (after core return)
Timken Front Hub Grease Seals - $11.38
Upper and lower OEM rear coil insulators - $100
One pair of OEM rear control arm bushings (because I inadvertently cut them out of one of the A- arms before realizing I needed the sleeves - $32.82
Grand Total: $1152.13
Add sales tax and shipping to all this stuff and it's north of $1200.
So I started with a rust free 1985 300ZX NA car with 104k on the clock. This is a dry AZ car. For you guys who do this job on rusty cars, that's all you. I wouldn't even try it.
Here's the initial parts pile. Not everything is there....
Old rear setup. All bone stock with sagging springs and a set of ancient Monroe shocks, one of which was completely blown out.
Check out the awesome rotten bumpstops
Disassembly started. I did the rear first because it looked harder. I was right.
To remove the rear control arms there's a section of hard line attached to the arm itself, and the soft lines need to be removed from each end. Turns out I had a seized caliper on one side, and the rubber dust boots were shot, hence the need for new calipers. I was thankfully able to find the last set in Mesa, AZ at an O'Reilly's.
One side gutted, sans shock. The upper shock mount has to be unbolted inside the car. The rear speaker grill and speakers need to come out to get to the mounting bolts. I found it easier to drop the whole mount rather than just the shock, and then reassemble as a unit.
Arm is out! Pay attention to the bolts you take out. The inner mount has cam washers on it to set toe when the car gets aligned.
After applying much fire to the rubber bushings, I was able to push out the inner sleeve. I learned as I went that if I'd burned it longer, it would have fallen out. I used a 1 lb Coleman propane cylinder with a torch head to do the bushing burning.
So I have done bushings before on leaf spring setups, and you always had to remove the inner sleeve as well. Not so for the Prothane kit (whoops!). So I had to buy a couple new OEM bushings so I could salvage the sleeves. The rubber had to be burned out of these as well.
So here's an extra step that I did on the first arm that I didn't have to do on the second. Pressing the new sleeves into the arm. That took just about all my little 12 ton press had!