Coil Pack Conversion - More Info Needed - Nissan : Datsun ZCar forum :Nissan Z Forum: 240Z to 370Z
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post #1 of 4 (permalink) Old 11-06-2019, 01:21 PM Thread Starter
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Question Coil Pack Conversion - More Info Needed

I am currently looking into doing a distributorless, coil on plug conversion on my L24 engine. I'd to gain an understanding of what parts were used in the conversion. Are there any fabrication needs or any other "gotchas" I may not be aware of? I would think most if not all L-series, 6-cyl engines would fare similarly with compatibility.

There is no clear how-to online. The goal is to end up with a setup with reliability and quality. Part/model numbers are certainly appreciated.

Here are some of the links I've come acorss in researching -

71 240Z | 91 300ZX N/A - SOLD
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post #2 of 4 (permalink) Old 11-06-2019, 04:20 PM
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I'm using the Ford coils that Bryan Blake references and I've seen his L-series Ford coil bracket in person - it's very nice. I'm using a Megasquirt MS3X ECU, a Nissan ignitor to drive the Ford coils, and the DIYAutotune optical wheel in my L28ET distributor. But, my engine is EFI (Nissan ECCS) to begin with.

First you need to decide how you want to drive the coil packs you want to use. There are many different ways to do COP but nearly all require an ECU (and $$$)… I'll be puzzled why you want to go this route on a carbureted engine.

You'll probably find the most information on this stuff at

(Okay now a little more: If you want full sequential you'll need both a cam and crank signal to "tell" the controller when the engine is approaching TDC on the compression stroke. You can do a wasted spark ignition with only a crank signal. Wasted spark will fire 2 coils at the same time since it doesn't "know" if the engine is approaching TDC on the compression or exhaust stroke. You still need a "spark controller". I think most people use a toothed wheel on the damper pulley for crank signal (toothed wheel and a sensor to "count" the teeth - a missing tooth verifies position). The L-series doesn't have a very convenient way to mount a cam sensor necessary for full sequential COP. Though many people have found ways other than using the L28ET distributor body and drive spindle. The '82-'83 280ZX Turbo (L28ET) uses an optical wheel inside the distributor body to provide crank and cam signal to it's ECU. Since it mounts on any L-series engine, it's pretty simple to use - costs money and is getting harder to find, but it's fairly simple. There are also other similar C.A.S. units that can be adapted (but that's not generally an option for a DIY install - you need skill and/or a machine shop and/or $$). And, that's just a start...)

1974 "early" 260Z - L28ET - MS3X full sequential fuel and spark, COP=Ford 4.6 coilpacks w/ Nissan Ignitor, diyautotune chopper wheel - FMIC - T04E .63 A/R - 400cc Injectors (too big!), 14point7 Spartan2 Wideband - C/R 5-speed - Coilovers - Big Brake Kit up front, Porterfield friction all around. Mesa, AZ
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post #3 of 4 (permalink) Old 11-06-2019, 05:31 PM
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I went with an Electromotive TEC-GT on my autocross car. I originally had it set for ignition only as I was running triple Mikunis. I have since changed to Borla/TWM injection, having issues with the carbs in fast cornering conditions. Fuel injection is "The Boss"!
I had to add a crank trigger toothed wheel to the damper pulley, but was able to get rid of the distributor.
The system wasn't cheap, but it offers me very reliable performance in all weather conditions.


1976 280Z - Street

1973 240Z - SCCA Autocross F Prepared
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post #4 of 4 (permalink) Old Yesterday, 08:22 PM
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Pick up a z32 cas/ignitor and graft it onto the L28ET distributor shaft. Use the z32 ecu to control coilpacks and injectors. I did that a few lifetimes ago. Megasquirt is a much easier option.

72 240z Series IV
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