Originally Posted by Humberto Acosta
I have a stock 1972 240Z.In troubleshooting an amperage loss that drains my battery I found what appears to be a condensator that sits next to the voltage regulator practically coming apart. Don't know if that's the answer to the problem but it needs to be replaced and I don't know what it really is, It has a small resistor and what appears t be a transistor in series with a coiled ground wire. Either way, I need to find it. Any ideas? please see the picture
What you call a condensator, looks like a condenser but it is actually a noise suppressor. That's a good name you made up, I'll have to use that one. Example: I think that the condensator sends a resistance signal to the Kanuter valve which can cause stiffness in your universal joints. Sorry, I couldn't resist. Anyhow, back to the noise supprssors, they came on the alternators, the voltage regulators, and the ignition coils depending on the year of the z. If you're not using a stock radio then you don't need any of them. Remove them and throw them away unless you're a Z parts pack rate like myself. Modern stereos have built in noise suppression and have had for the last 20+ years.
You actually would have a voltage loss not an amperage loss. It's proper name is a parasitic drain on the battery. If you have a modern stereo, there is a yellow wire going to it with an inline fuse for the memory circuit. Pull that fuse and see if the drain goes away. I've seen lots of stereos get a drain in the memory circuit through the years. I've seen a lot of aftermarket alarm systems do the same thing so disconnect the fuses for it if you have one. If that doesn't do it, then unplug all your fuses and see if the problem goes away. Your ignition and accessory relay can cause a drain but that's really rare. The last thing on the list would be the
clock. You can pull the glove box and reach up there and unplug it. If the clock doesn't work then you may as well leave it unplugged regardless. Even though it doesn't work it can still cause a PD on the system.
To test for a PD you need a complex volt meter. Disconnect the negative terminal and connect the volt meter leads to the batt terminal and the connector with the other wire. Anything below 3 volts is acceptable. If you use a simple volt meter like most hand held units are you'll read 12 volts all the time. I'm not sure if a Fluke meter qualifies or not. I've never used mine for this test. Anyhow, most of the time if you disconnect the negative terminal, wait at least 15 seconds then lightly touch the batt terminal to the post you will usually see a light spark if you have P drain. You need to do that test in low light to see it usually. Good luck on figuring it out. Z man of Washington