Burned through my AZC clutch with Rebello 3.0L - Nissan : Datsun ZCar forum :Nissan Z Forum: 240Z to 370Z
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post #1 of 5 (permalink) Old 10-06-2019, 12:23 AM Thread Starter
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Burned through my AZC clutch with Rebello 3.0L

Hey All,

I have a Rebello 3.0L in my '72 Z with a 280ZXT 5-speed and Arizona Z car 6 puck clutch, flywheel and pressure plate. Everything has been in the car for about six months and my clutch started slipping tonight. Any recommendations for a clutch setup that will hold more power? It's a street car that gets driven hard, but I honestly thought I'd get more than 6 months out of it. Anyone used the ACT road racing clutch kit from MSA or have any other suggestions?

Also, if I replace with another AZC clutch and have the flywheel resurfaced, do I need to replace the six month old pressure plate, or can that go back in as-is?

Thanks!
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post #2 of 5 (permalink) Old 10-07-2019, 02:03 AM
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Here's a thought: why not run a full-face street clutch disc on your street car?

"Racing" discs are not built for stop and go driving, nor are they tolerant of deliberate abuse. The idea is that once moving, skillful and considerate clutch work and big clamping power makes up for the grip surface area sacrificed to reduce rotation mass.

In any case, deft clutch operation must be practiced if you want any disc to last.

As I said, just a thought.

PS: There's no way to guess about the PP; only direct examination will tell if it has survived your treatment.



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post #3 of 5 (permalink) Old 10-07-2019, 12:57 PM Thread Starter
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I appreciate your reply. Just so I understand correctly, is the idea behind the 6-puck race clutches that they clamp harder to offset the fact that they have less surface area? So a full-face street clutch has to clamp with less force because it has increased surface area? What about the 6-puck race clutches make them not suitable for street driving when compared to a full-face? Just the fact that they have a reduced surface area?

Any thoughts on ACT versus Centerforce versus Dave's full-face clutch at Arizona Z car?

Many thanks.
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post #4 of 5 (permalink) Old 10-07-2019, 01:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZevF View Post

Any thoughts on ACT versus Centerforce versus Dave's full-face clutch at Arizona Z car?

Many thanks.

I am using a Centerforce on my street car and my Autocross car. The clutch has been on the street car since the mid 80's . Zero issues!

I have only one season on the Autocross car, running 200 HP at the rear wheels. So far, so good.
Edit: What I meat to say, I have 5 seasons with the Centerforce on the Autocross car, this past season is the first one with the 200 HP motor.

Larry


1976 280Z - Street

1973 240Z - SCCA Autocross F Prepared

Last edited by crayzlair; 10-08-2019 at 10:28 AM. Reason: added text
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post #5 of 5 (permalink) Old 10-07-2019, 11:33 PM
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Sorry. The "clamping force" referred to that provided by the heavy duty pressure plate that is usually a part of a puck-disc package. You do have such an extra performance PP, do you not? If not, there is part of your problem off the top.

Puck-discs are not suitable for street use because of the stop-and-go nature of the operation. This is when the substantial reduction in friction facing becomes a problem, even for the most skilled driver. Add a hot motor and a heavy foot, and clutch life becomes a crap shoot.

The reduced friction facing makes a puck clutch pretty much an "on or off" situation with little in between. Unless one is particularly skilled at full engagement on a rising throttle from idle, getting off from rest, even on level, becomes a messy exercise in slippage. Toasted clutch, coming right up.

Philosophical Sidebar: One might observe that there is a difference between driving "hard" and driving "fast". The first punishes the car, the second punishes the driver's license. Is either really appropriate on the street?

$.02 from the peanut gallery.

PS: If the PP and FW are blue, you might want to rethink your techniques.
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