[QUOTE=pinbill;2772116]Hey Guys, thanks for the responses.
I did enough to get the car driving dependably and put it on the lift to see what was going on under the car. I changed the oil, trans fluid, differential fluid, new fuel lines, unstuck a rear wheel cylinder, brake pads, brake shoes, tires, and an alignment. There was no rust under the car. It had rubberized under coating and was never driven in the rain. I was pretty happy to see it so nice on the bottom. The transmission is leaking from the clutch solenoid, shifter, and speedo line. It also looks like its seeping from where the seems mate in the middle. The differential is also pretty leaky. The car is pretty solid to drive. There is a little shimmy at 65. It feels like a tie rod end is loose. The transmission grinds a bit downshifting from 4th to third. I was surprised how many people on the street were excited about the car. Waving their hands out the windows, thumbs up, yelling, etc...
The brake system will be first. Then this fall/winter drop I will drop the trans and differential to reseal them. While I have it apart I will replace everything in the rear end. Then I will do the front suspension and cooling system. I will finish by cleaning the carbs, dropping the gas tank and getting an exhaust. Then a few interior things.
The brake master cylinder caps were melted. The brake fluid was, thick, black and nasty. The brakes are working good but I would feel more comfortable with new rubber. I found rebuild kits for the calipers and wheel cylinders, but I have an early tandem brake master cylinder. Is there a rebuild kit for it? Is there a kit to rebuild the power brake booster?
As far as the trans leak goes, did you check and see if the trans was overfilled? I find that all the time and it causes leaks. As far as the leak from the speedo line, that can be replaced without pulling the trans. The speedo pinion assembly pulls right out of the trans after pulling 1 short bolt. I sell the o-ring and inner seal for 7.95 to zcar.com users, and you'd need a very small drift punch to drive out the roll pin to gain access to the seal.
If the trans is leaking by the slave cylinder, if you're referring to the clutch fork boot, then that could be the front trans seal and/or the rear engine seal. If you're saying that the leak is going past the boot on the slave cylinder then replace the slave. The transmissions don't normally leak from the seams in the middle unless the trans has been taken apart and not properly sealed on reassembly.
Worn tie rods don't usually cause a wheel shimmy on these cars. It's usually caused by a tire out of round or out of balance.
There is a kit available to rebuild your brake master and your clutch master as well. I try to carry both in stock. As far as the booster goes I'm not aware of anyone that sells a booster rebuild kit. You have to send the booster into a company and have them rebuild it. Then when you get it back you'll have to sterilize it and then repaint it with a spray gun. You can't use rattle cans on them because the paint will fish eye really bad.
As far as your suspension bushings go, your best bet is to use poly urethane except on the T/C rods, those have to be rubber. The poly bushings are much easier to install, readily available, and the biggest problem that people have doing the poly bushings is that they don't lube them with synthetic grease when they install them. Don't lube them on assembly and they can squeak and wear out a lot faster. Stay away from Prothane too, the poly is softer. I sell nothing but energy suspension.
Brake and clutch master caps are still available brand new, I usually have them in stock.
I also have a good price on seat upholstery kits. The 240 kits sell for 200.00 + shipping for zcar.com users except for the butterscotch kits, those cost more. I have the upholstery and carpet kits shipped to you directly from the manufacturer which helps keep prices down to you. If you're interested just send me an e-mail or call me.
Z man of Washington