1971 240z Refurbish Thread - Nissan : Datsun ZCar forum :Nissan Z Forum: 240Z to 370Z
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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 06-16-2019, 09:47 AM Thread Starter
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1971 240z Refurbish Thread

Hello out there,

I picked up a 240z yesterday. I hope to keep it as original as possible and just replace wear items with quality parts. I was going to wait to get started on it but I don't think I can resist. I can't post attachments on this thread or I would put up some pics. I put a few up on an introduction thread if you want to check them out.

The rear brakes are in trouble. The car isn't safe to drive and driving around the neighborhood it sounded like the rear suspension was clunky. It could have been there is no insulation or sound deadening material. I don't know because I have never driven or been in one of these cars. There is a bunch of seepage from the rear differential so I might take the rear end apart and replace the seals, bushings, and struts. I will put the car up today and get a game plan. I found a good write up on woodworker.com and a service manual is coming in the mail today.

Is there are master set of rubber bushings for these cars? I found few energy poly bushing sets but I would prefer to run the rubber ones. I don't have experience running poly. I have read they are stiff and wear out quicker.

Do you guys have a strut that you like the best for these cars?

Bill
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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 06-21-2019, 09:37 AM
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All of the original rubber bushings are available on eBay. My '71 will be a daily driver so I want the extra "cushion" from the rubber. For struts I used KYBs. They're not a high-performance strut but better than the original factory units.

Watch your weight or someone might steal it
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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 06-21-2019, 06:36 PM
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I made my 72 a daily driver 20 years ago. I used poly bushings. They are still like new. The trouble with rubber bushings is they rot. And to swap out the originals you have to burn them out. A lot of work, so why not replace them with some thing that lasts?
Also, it improves the suspension. There is less play so it is more accurate.
I have tokico struts and suspension technique springs.
However, I think keep a stock rear end mount. The solid piece transfers too much vibration and I like original rubber bushings for the front trailing arms. The solid and poly ones make it a bit twitchy with newer wheel and tire combos.
Definitely do poly mustache bar bushings

The oxen are slow, but the Earth is patient.
1970 240Z, 1972 240Z, 2003 350Z
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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 06-21-2019, 09:33 PM Thread Starter
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Hey Guys, thanks for the responses.

I did enough to get the car driving dependably and put it on the lift to see what was going on under the car. I changed the oil, trans fluid, differential fluid, new fuel lines, unstuck a rear wheel cylinder, brake pads, brake shoes, tires, and an alignment. There was no rust under the car. It had rubberized under coating and was never driven in the rain. I was pretty happy to see it so nice on the bottom. The transmission is leaking from the clutch solenoid, shifter, and speedo line. It also looks like its seeping from where the seems mate in the middle. The differential is also pretty leaky. The car is pretty solid to drive. There is a little shimmy at 65. It feels like a tie rod end is loose. The transmission grinds a bit downshifting from 4th to third. I was surprised how many people on the street were excited about the car. Waving their hands out the windows, thumbs up, yelling, etc...

The brake system will be first. Then this fall/winter drop I will drop the trans and differential to reseal them. While I have it apart I will replace everything in the rear end. Then I will do the front suspension and cooling system. I will finish by cleaning the carbs, dropping the gas tank and getting an exhaust. Then a few interior things.

The brake master cylinder caps were melted. The brake fluid was, thick, black and nasty. The brakes are working good but I would feel more comfortable with new rubber. I found rebuild kits for the calipers and wheel cylinders, but I have an early tandem brake master cylinder. Is there a rebuild kit for it? Is there a kit to rebuild the power brake booster?

Thanks for the help,

Bill

Last edited by pinbill; 06-21-2019 at 09:36 PM.
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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 06-22-2019, 04:39 PM
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Originally Posted by zbartsky View Post
The trouble with rubber bushings is they rot. And to swap out the originals you have to burn them out. A lot of work, so why not replace them with some thing that lasts?
Rubber bushings last quite a few years and definitely provide a softer ride. They also don't squeak. Use a press to remove and install them instead of burning - you're done in 5 minutes.

Watch your weight or someone might steal it
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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 06-22-2019, 11:36 PM Thread Starter
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I am still a bit on the fence. I am leaning towards the rubber parts.

I had a good day cleaning the interior today. I am getting ready to order seat covers and seat foam from JDM auto parts. Anyone have any experience with their seat covers?
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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 06-26-2019, 06:35 PM
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I have poly bushings on my 78 and like how it handles. Squeaking and harshness isn't a problem (to me) but it's your car. My suggestion is to fix complete systems or at least major portions of a system.



Do the entire front brake system as a unit - wheel bearings, pads, caliper, rotor and hoses if you get into any of it. Then you'll be done with that and won't have to go back after a few miles for something else.


You can leave the calipers and rotors alone if there isn't much wear. Hoses I change immediately if they show any crack when bent any time I get a new car.


Same thing with the clutch hydros and cooling system. You don't want to keep taking the same things apart unless you just want the practice.

Anyone can drive a new car.
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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 06-26-2019, 08:23 PM
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[QUOTE=pinbill;2772116]Hey Guys, thanks for the responses.

I did enough to get the car driving dependably and put it on the lift to see what was going on under the car. I changed the oil, trans fluid, differential fluid, new fuel lines, unstuck a rear wheel cylinder, brake pads, brake shoes, tires, and an alignment. There was no rust under the car. It had rubberized under coating and was never driven in the rain. I was pretty happy to see it so nice on the bottom. The transmission is leaking from the clutch solenoid, shifter, and speedo line. It also looks like its seeping from where the seems mate in the middle. The differential is also pretty leaky. The car is pretty solid to drive. There is a little shimmy at 65. It feels like a tie rod end is loose. The transmission grinds a bit downshifting from 4th to third. I was surprised how many people on the street were excited about the car. Waving their hands out the windows, thumbs up, yelling, etc...

The brake system will be first. Then this fall/winter drop I will drop the trans and differential to reseal them. While I have it apart I will replace everything in the rear end. Then I will do the front suspension and cooling system. I will finish by cleaning the carbs, dropping the gas tank and getting an exhaust. Then a few interior things.

The brake master cylinder caps were melted. The brake fluid was, thick, black and nasty. The brakes are working good but I would feel more comfortable with new rubber. I found rebuild kits for the calipers and wheel cylinders, but I have an early tandem brake master cylinder. Is there a rebuild kit for it? Is there a kit to rebuild the power brake booster?


As far as the trans leak goes, did you check and see if the trans was overfilled? I find that all the time and it causes leaks. As far as the leak from the speedo line, that can be replaced without pulling the trans. The speedo pinion assembly pulls right out of the trans after pulling 1 short bolt. I sell the o-ring and inner seal for 7.95 to zcar.com users, and you'd need a very small drift punch to drive out the roll pin to gain access to the seal.
If the trans is leaking by the slave cylinder, if you're referring to the clutch fork boot, then that could be the front trans seal and/or the rear engine seal. If you're saying that the leak is going past the boot on the slave cylinder then replace the slave. The transmissions don't normally leak from the seams in the middle unless the trans has been taken apart and not properly sealed on reassembly.
Worn tie rods don't usually cause a wheel shimmy on these cars. It's usually caused by a tire out of round or out of balance.
There is a kit available to rebuild your brake master and your clutch master as well. I try to carry both in stock. As far as the booster goes I'm not aware of anyone that sells a booster rebuild kit. You have to send the booster into a company and have them rebuild it. Then when you get it back you'll have to sterilize it and then repaint it with a spray gun. You can't use rattle cans on them because the paint will fish eye really bad.
As far as your suspension bushings go, your best bet is to use poly urethane except on the T/C rods, those have to be rubber. The poly bushings are much easier to install, readily available, and the biggest problem that people have doing the poly bushings is that they don't lube them with synthetic grease when they install them. Don't lube them on assembly and they can squeak and wear out a lot faster. Stay away from Prothane too, the poly is softer. I sell nothing but energy suspension.
Brake and clutch master caps are still available brand new, I usually have them in stock.
I also have a good price on seat upholstery kits. The 240 kits sell for 200.00 + shipping for zcar.com users except for the butterscotch kits, those cost more. I have the upholstery and carpet kits shipped to you directly from the manufacturer which helps keep prices down to you. If you're interested just send me an e-mail or call me.
Z man of Washington
www.datsunstore.com
360-668-2979

1978 black pearl show car-retired, I bought it new. 1983 zx turbo daily driver, modified, 3rd owner. 1970 240 #23 project car FOR SALE. 1970 240 #638 driver. 1973 240 roadster being built. 50+ other z's & zx's. 57 Chev Sedan Delivery. 79 620 King Cab. Store front
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