Join Date: Mar 2019
Location: currently residing in NC
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drive ability issue with '83 Turbo 280ZX 5-spd
Newbie here, 1st post... so I'll try to be as proficient with the problem as possible.... I am experiencing a slight idle surge from 600-900 rpm's at cold idle, and upon slight acceleration, the engine stumbles and will backfire seemingly thru the intake, and not so much thru the exhaust. After 3-4 min's of idling, or driving, the engine stumbles significantly more and won't accelerate, then within approx. 1 min. will cut off and not crank again until it cools down for at least a couple hours... The car has 81k miles and I purchased it from the original owner who let the car sit for about 16 years... I have replaced the battery, coil, fuel pump, fuel filter, distributor cap, rotor, new ngk spark plugs gapped at .0040, new 10mm accel plug wires with the correct placement firing order. I dropped the fuel tank and cleaned it thoroughly including the fuel lines also. I put 10 gals. 93 octane ethanol free fuel in it. I also upgraded the cluth, pressure plate, throwout and pilot bearing, including complete new brake system (lines, master cyl. (was leaking), new calipers, rotors, and raybestos ceramic pads all around.
I feel like it's an electrical issue, thankful it's not intermittent, but symptomatic from initial startup.
I recently removed the mass air meter and cleaned the blade terminals and applied dielectric grease. I then opened the box to find exceptionally clean internals. I noticed it (does not) have an idle-adjustment screw on the AFM near the inlet...Also the wire connector has 5 blade connectors, (not 7) and has an analog dash, (not digital)... I very carefully cleaned the nipple that protrudes inside the flapper door. which was, what I thought, unusually clean and virtually carbon / soot free. I then carefully adjusted the carbon track and re-positioned it no more than a thousandth or two of an inch, making sure the carbon track didn't intersect with the old grooves, then re-tightened the 3 screws holding the board stable. Finally I reinstalled the AFM cover and properly sealed it... After cranking the car again, same problem, with no improvement. I'm the type to test things before replacing and not sure where the voltage parameters (range / ratio's?) should be at say 75 degrees (room temp), or which of the 5 blade terminals should be checked or in what order? Before I send off the MAF meter off to be rebuilt, I want to eliminate any issue with other components...Not sure if I should replace the $40 cylinder head temp. sensor? and I've been suggested that the ECM may have a bad temp. capacitor internally.... Thanks in advance, and ANY help would be greatly appreciated.
Last edited by 83Turbo280ZX; 03-11-2019 at 06:08 PM.