Can't Shake It 2 - Nissan : Datsun ZCar forum :Nissan Z Forum: 240Z to 370Z
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post #1 of 27 (permalink) Old 09-21-2018, 03:18 PM Thread Starter
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Can't Shake It 2

What are my options?
http://triumphpc.com/work/280zx/spoilerrust1.jpg
http://triumphpc.com/work/280zx/spoilerrust2.jpg

I saw a bit of rust atop the front spoiler and pressed on it and my finger went through. I picked out all the loose/soft stuff and ended up with the hole you see above. Options?
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post #2 of 27 (permalink) Old 09-21-2018, 08:00 PM
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Man you have to get a beater car. That looks patchable. It needs to be stripped down and see how much metal is left.

1975 280Z F54/N47 MSA 6-1 Header 2.5 Exhaust
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post #3 of 27 (permalink) Old 09-21-2018, 09:11 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by bificus View Post
Man you have to get a beater car.
I (currently) live in an apartment and the car's in an open parking lot, so that's not an option. And I don't have any other options for storage at this time. Ultimately, the car needs to be kept in a private garage....and I'm working on that.. But, for the time being, I've gotta work within the confines of what I've got.


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That looks patchable. It needs to be stripped down and see how much metal is left.
I didn't mention it in the first post, but the metal surrounding the hole feels soft, so I was afraid to press my luck—literally or figuratively—any further.
If I'm able to find good metal without expanding the hole too much, how would you go about patching it? Remember, I'm in an apartment, so things like welding (new metal) aren't options.

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post #4 of 27 (permalink) Old 09-22-2018, 01:40 AM
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That hole is going to get quite a bit bigger I'm afraid. Fiberglass is an option but not a great one. Metal replacement or replacing the entire valence is a better plan.
I actually got a complete 3 pc. assembly back a couple of years ago for less than 2 bills...unfortunately, I think it was from Black Dragon. Not sure if it's available elsewhere or not. You'd think so with the limited life-span of those things. Hard to avoid curbs with these low to the ground cars!
https://zcarsource.com/body-parts/fr.../valance-280zx
One other thing that I can think of....If you cut all the rust out and have enough left, you can 'glue' a patch panel in with something like Fusor adhesive.
Before anyone laughs, modern cars are largely assembled using this as opposed to traditional welding.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Lord-Fusor-...5.c10#viTabs_0


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Last edited by Greg Reid; 09-22-2018 at 01:53 AM.
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post #5 of 27 (permalink) Old 09-22-2018, 09:53 AM Thread Starter
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That hole is going to get quite a bit bigger I'm afraid. Fiberglass is an option but not a great one. Metal replacement or replacing the entire valence is a better plan.
I actually got a complete 3 pc. assembly back a couple of years ago for less than 2 bills...unfortunately, I think it was from Black Dragon. Not sure if it's available elsewhere or not. You'd think so with the limited life-span of those things. Hard to avoid curbs with these low to the ground cars!
My experience with parts from 'Dragon's been less than exemplary and zcarsource didn't have anything used in stock. However, your second link (ebay) reminded me to always check there. And, sure enough, I found a new metal center valance for <$75 shipped, and from a seller with a good track record. So, as long as the screws that affix the part to the side valance pieces come out (and the side valances pieces come off the body) without damage, I'll have it undercoated/painted OEM-style in no time.

You cannot believe how relived I am right now. I've been in a blue funk since I found that rot. Especially, now that the other repairs appear to be getting properly addressed (without the re-rusting).

Many thanks again to you and all who contribute here!
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post #6 of 27 (permalink) Old 09-25-2018, 01:21 AM
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Well, you don't have to worry about getting bad parts from Dragon any more. I'll miss them myself.
Glad you found what you need though.


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post #7 of 27 (permalink) Old 09-30-2018, 05:09 PM Thread Starter
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UPDATE:
I've got the new valance and there're three screw holes which run into the frame just ahead of the radiator (the square holes do not have screws running through them in the OEM valance):
http://triumphpc.com/work/280zx/valance/newvalance1.jpg
http://triumphpc.com/work/280zx/valance/newvalance2.jpg
http://triumphpc.com/work/280zx/valance/newvalance3.jpg
http://triumphpc.com/work/280zx/valance/newvalance4.jpg
http://triumphpc.com/work/280zx/valance/newvalance5.jpg

But, after removing the three fastening screws that affix the OEM valence to the frame and side valance pieces, it won't come out. I can bend the upper part of the valance up and down ~one inch, but it won't disengage with the side valance pieces. After prying apart the sheet metal where the center valance mates with the side valance pieces, it looks like the two parts may be welded. I scraped some of the undercoating where the pieces connect to see if there might be a screw, but it's all flat. What do you think?

http://triumphpc.com/work/280zx/valance/valance1.jpg
http://triumphpc.com/work/280zx/valance/valance2.jpg

Here's the view from the rear:
http://triumphpc.com/work/280zx/valance/valance3.jpg

I also can't seem to separate the mating portions of the side and center. Thinking they're just stuck together with rust and/or old undercoating, I tried slicing the joint, but that doesn't seem to've separated the pieces either:
http://triumphpc.com/work/280zx/valance/valance4.jpg

There's definitely something holding the side and center valance pieces together that's stronger than rust or undercoating; and that's what seems to be holding-up the center valance's removal. Can you tell if those areas in the red circles in the first two photos are welds and, if so, how to break them without having to damage the side valances? Remember, also, that I don't have access to a garage or power tools (I do have a cordless Dremel, so I could grind/cut through that "weld"(?) if that's what it takes).

Last edited by freddy333; 09-30-2018 at 05:18 PM.
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post #8 of 27 (permalink) Old 10-01-2018, 02:32 AM
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Yes, that dimple looks like a spot weld. It can be drilled, center punch it first. Not the easiest spot to get backing for a good punch, but you can also dremel a spot first.
Look for the same on the other end. Makes sense there would have possibly been two originally per side to keep alignment and the one you see hasn't rusted loose yet.

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post #9 of 27 (permalink) Old 10-01-2018, 03:30 PM Thread Starter
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Yes, that dimple looks like a spot weld. It can be drilled, center punch it first. Not the easiest spot to get backing for a good punch, but you can also dremel a spot first.
Will do.
Presuming the elimination of the two welds (one per side) frees the part, what do I do (re those welds) with the replacement valance?
Will it need to be spot-welded at the same two points? Can I epoxy them instead? Can the mating pieces be left "loose", since the entire piece is affixed with three screws anyway? Thoughts?
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post #10 of 27 (permalink) Old 10-01-2018, 07:27 PM Thread Starter
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UPDATE:
As it turned out, there were two spot welds per side and another one along the outer rim on both sides. Ultimately, after drilling and dremeling as much as I could reach, I ended up having to just peel the ends apart with vice grips. Fortunately, aside from the holes where the spot welds had to be removed, the parts of the side pieces that slide onto the center valance are otherwise in good shape. No rust either!
http://triumphpc.com/work/280zx/vala...ledvalance.jpg
http://triumphpc.com/work/280zx/valance/sidevalance-por15-1.jpg
http://triumphpc.com/work/280zx/valance/sidevalance-por15-2.jpg

So, since I'm not sure yet what to do in place of the original spot welds between the side and center valance joints, I cleaned and POR-15'd the ends of the side pieces, so they don't rust whilst I figure out the spot-weld dilemma..

Last edited by freddy333; 10-01-2018 at 07:34 PM.
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