Originally Posted by Greg Reid
The fit between the center and ends is better on those than the ones I bought.
Actually, I had to do some cutting to the "tabs" on the side valance pieces where they fit behind the center valance to get them to fit together. That's likely why the factory spot-welded the side and center sections together at multiple points. In the completed photo, you can just about see the [stainless steel] screws (backed with fender washers and stainless nylon lock-nuts) I added through the square holes (which fortunately aligned) in the overlapping areas on both the side and center valances. Also, the lower vertical portion of the new center valance that runs between the two side valance pieces is shorter than on the OEM center valance, so it didn't fit around the side pieces. So I had to trim the side "tabs" to reduce their height a bit. Fortunately, the Dremel's cutting wheel made short-work of that.
So, were these 'textured' from the factory?
No, it arrived primed. I applied POR-15 to the entire part, which, in theory, should keep it from rusting again. After the POR-15 cured, I applied TexCoat chipguard 4313 (black)
to the entire part (chipguard's like undercoat, but it's not as likely as undercoat to allow water ingress). Then, I primed/painted/clear-coated the front/top (the underside had been left unpainted by the factory, with only the undercoating....and the chipguard looks like the OEM undercoating). When it was complete, the valance looked OEM. I kept the rusted original to use as a model and, except for the rust hole and peeled bits (to break the spot-welds), you wouldn't've been able to tell the old and new valances apart. I thought of taking photos of the finish process, but I was in a rush to get it done.
So, in lieu of that, here's a macro I just took of the final finish (as you can see, I've reinstalled the grill as all appears well):