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post #21 of 88 (permalink) Old 08-23-2018, 12:29 PM
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Just to be sure, before doing anything, clean and dry the snot out of it, use old towels and brake cleaner. try the slow ride around the block to be sure of where its coming from, You don't want it to accumulate, and obscure where the leak is starting. Good luck!
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post #22 of 88 (permalink) Old 08-23-2018, 12:48 PM Thread Starter
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Just to be sure, before doing anything, clean and dry the snot out of it, use old towels and brake cleaner. try the slow ride around the block to be sure of where its coming from, You don't want it to accumulate, and obscure where the leak is starting. Good luck!
good call, will do!

1978 280z - stock L28 engine - Dallas, TX
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post #23 of 88 (permalink) Old 08-25-2018, 03:12 AM
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Hi guys,

Just pulled the 280z out of the driveway and noticed some red liquid on the floor I'm assuming this is manual transmission fluid, correct?

I will need to refill the transmission with fluid and will prob do it through the shifter hole as the plug filler hole is probably seized. I don't have the know-how to drop the transmission to change the seals (nor want to spend the $600+ dallahs) to have someone do this.

My question is has anyone tried stuff like this and has it worked - https://barsleaks.com/product/transm...k-concentrate/?

any ideas?

-chase
Normally automatic trans fluid is red and manual trans fluid is light brown. It's possible that you could have a red synthetic fluid in your trans though. Are you sure that the fluid is from your z and not some other car that parked there before you? Peel back the boot on the slave cylinder and see if it's wet inside. If it is then that could be leaking. By the way, trans stop leaks are not good for your car and don't work. There's no such thing as a quick fix in that department. If you do have trans fluid leaking out by the clutch fork or slave cylinder then that is usually going to be the front seal of the trans which means pull the trans and replace the seal. Once the trans is on the bench all you have to do is remove the front cover (input shaft housing) on the trans and do the seal.
How do you know the fill plug is frozen, have you tried it? If the fill plug is frozen, and hasn't been screwed up by vice grips then call up your local Nissan dealership and ask if they have the Kent Moore tool to remove the fill plugs. If they do then they should be able to remove your fill plug without too much trouble. I have one and they're fool proof in most cases. If a fill plug is absolutely frozen and it's been vice gripped so it's shot you can always weld an oversized nut to it and use a socket on the nut before it cools off. Of course if you do that you should replace the fill plug once you get it out.
For future reference there are 2 important things to mention on trans or differential drain and fill plugs. #1 NEVER pull a drain plug without first loosening the fill plug. #2 These plugs are tapered threads and are designed to be snugged, NEVER TORQUED. Z man of Washington

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post #24 of 88 (permalink) Old 08-29-2018, 12:24 PM Thread Starter
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I know this is a VERY stupid sounding question but I am curious so I'm going to ask it.

When a seal begins to leak, wouldn't grabbing some black silicone glue and sealing the joint from the outside solve the slow leak problem?

This is basically a thought experiment ever since I saw this: https://www.permatex.com/products/ad...t-leak-repair/

1978 280z - stock L28 engine - Dallas, TX

Last edited by chaseincats; 08-29-2018 at 12:51 PM.
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post #25 of 88 (permalink) Old 08-29-2018, 12:59 PM
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Shown below is a typical shaft seal. If it leaks, it is normally because the primary lip has worn down/failed.. If you apply silicone to the outside of the seal, the only thing it does is try to seal at the dust lip. Because the shaft rotates, the fluid will go right past the silicone. If other words, it will not work.
P.S. There are no stupid questions.
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post #26 of 88 (permalink) Old 08-29-2018, 03:31 PM
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Just to clarify a point others have mentioned - DO NOT use automatic transmission fluid.

There is no such thing as "transmission fluid." There are many types of lubricants used in manual and automatic transmissions, and you need to know exactly what to use to avoid damage. I even know of some manual transmissions (late 50's Mercedes) which do actually use automatic transmission fluid, but those are exceptions.

As a previous response mentioned, the correct gear oil for a 208ZX manual 5-speed is SAE 90W , and type GL-4. There are both GL-4 and GL-5 gear oils; one is for transmissions with synchros, the other is for rear differentials. Don't mix them up.

If you use a synthetic gear oil like Mobil 1, then the weight will be 75-90, but still GL-4 rated.

If you're having leak problems, I'd run a standard type gear oil for now to save money, and when you have the leaks fixed I'd drain the standard gear oil and fill with synthetic. Your transmission will shift more smoothly as a result.
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post #27 of 88 (permalink) Old 08-29-2018, 04:27 PM Thread Starter
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just to clarify, do you mean the standard mobil 1 gear oil will do?

1978 280z - stock L28 engine - Dallas, TX
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post #28 of 88 (permalink) Old 08-29-2018, 04:29 PM Thread Starter
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Just to clarify a point others have mentioned - DO NOT use automatic transmission fluid.

There is no such thing as "transmission fluid." There are many types of lubricants used in manual and automatic transmissions, and you need to know exactly what to use to avoid damage. I even know of some manual transmissions (late 50's Mercedes) which do actually use automatic transmission fluid, but those are exceptions.

As a previous response mentioned, the correct gear oil for a 208ZX manual 5-speed is SAE 90W , and type GL-4. There are both GL-4 and GL-5 gear oils; one is for transmissions with synchros, the other is for rear differentials. Don't mix them up.

If you use a synthetic gear oil like Mobil 1, then the weight will be 75-90, but still GL-4 rated.

If you're having leak problems, I'd run a standard type gear oil for now to save money, and when you have the leaks fixed I'd drain the standard gear oil and fill with synthetic. Your transmission will shift more smoothly as a result.
Just to clarify, do you mean the standard Mobil 1 gear oil is ok to use permanently or is there a specific brand you recommend?

1978 280z - stock L28 engine - Dallas, TX
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post #29 of 88 (permalink) Old 08-29-2018, 05:14 PM
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lots of opinions out there, I go with the FSM, GL4 is recommended. GL 5 is typically modified with chemicals that "may" injure the brass parts inside. Some swear that's not true. I have personally seen brass that looked like bronze on one of my transmissions while another still looked like brass. Not knowing the history I have no idea if this had to so with the kind of lubricants used. For the record I use red line GL4 MT90 in the transmission.
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post #30 of 88 (permalink) Old 08-29-2018, 08:50 PM
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I've had the Mobil 1 gear oil in my 5-speed since about 1995.
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