Is this floor a case for POR-15 or........? - Nissan : Datsun ZCar forum :Nissan Z Forum: 240Z to 370Z
User Tag List

 3Likes
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
post #1 of 24 (permalink) Old 06-14-2018, 09:32 PM Thread Starter
Member
 
ZZPiloto56's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Los Angeles CA
Posts: 61
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 17 Post(s)
(Thread Starter)
Is this floor a case for POR-15 or........?

I've done a little test sanding and it reveals good metal, in most cases the original factory off white. It looks horrendous, but it's just rusty "dust" mostly at this point. Can I sand and use some rust converter or POR 15, which I've heard about? Also visible is some kind of semi metallic hard factory floor liner, like insulation or reinforcement. It's glued on very firmly. Floors have no holes, bubbles, cracks. I'm putting in carpet and insulator. What to do?
Attached Images
File Type: jpg RF Floor pan.jpg (190.5 KB, 34 views)

'78 280Z
ZZPiloto56 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 24 (permalink) Old 06-14-2018, 10:06 PM
Member
 
SoCalJim's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Orange County, CA
Posts: 68
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 15 Post(s)
Garage
The covering is a sound deadening material. A hard tar-like material. I just scraped mine all out, sanded the surface rust, primed with a rusty metal primer, and painted the floor. Then, I installed a new sound & thermal matting (Thermo-Tec Cool It). I’ll follow up with new carpet padding and carpet.

I saw some surface rust under the dash, so I pulled out the dashboard, the HVAC system from under the dash, and the firewall insulator pads. That uncovered some more surface rust. So, I’ll sand and paint the firewall before installing the new firewall insulation and reassembling the interior.

Jim
1975 280Z, Metallic Green
Long Gone: 1975 and 1978 280Zs, both Metallic Brown

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


Last edited by SoCalJim; 06-14-2018 at 10:11 PM.
SoCalJim is offline  
post #3 of 24 (permalink) Old 06-15-2018, 04:10 AM Thread Starter
Member
 
ZZPiloto56's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Los Angeles CA
Posts: 61
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 17 Post(s)
(Thread Starter)
Quote:
Originally Posted by SoCalJim View Post
The covering is a sound deadening material. A hard tar-like material. I just scraped mine all out, sanded the surface rust, primed with a rusty metal primer, and painted the floor. Then, I installed a new sound & thermal matting (Thermo-Tec Cool It). Iíll follow up with new carpet padding and carpet.

I saw some surface rust under the dash, so I pulled out the dashboard, the HVAC system from under the dash, and the firewall insulator pads. That uncovered some more surface rust. So, Iíll sand and paint the firewall before installing the new firewall insulation and reassembling the interior.
Good to know this, thanks. Can I just ask: 1) What's your preferred method of sanding for the floors, hand? Dremel? Drill with wheel? And 2) The Thermo-Cool has its own adhesive I think, but will you also use adhesive under the padding and then under carpet? Spray adhesive? Anyway, much appreciated. I guess it's best to take out that tar-like floor covering, but it was placed so well at factory, yet we gotta treat any possible rust under there I'm sure. Regards

'78 280Z
ZZPiloto56 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #4 of 24 (permalink) Old 06-15-2018, 04:03 PM
Member
 
SoCalJim's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Orange County, CA
Posts: 68
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 15 Post(s)
Garage
Drill and/or Drexel with wire wheel and/or conical wire brush. The Thermo-Tec is self-adhering with a paper backing you peel off prior to installation. I think the padding uses a spray adhesive.

The factory deadening material is not uniformly fit to the floors and transmission tunnel. In some places it has a death grip on the floor, and in other places it is loosely fit or has air gaps. It also doesn’t cover everything. Any moisture in the carpeting from prior heater leaks, spilled drinks, etc. could lead to surface rust. That’s what I found in my 280Z.

Now that I’m done with the floors, I’m attacking the surface rust on mt firewall.

Jim
1975 280Z, Metallic Green
Long Gone: 1975 and 1978 280Zs, both Metallic Brown

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


Last edited by SoCalJim; 06-15-2018 at 04:04 PM. Reason: Added last sentence.
SoCalJim is offline  
post #5 of 24 (permalink) Old 06-15-2018, 05:17 PM Thread Starter
Member
 
ZZPiloto56's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Los Angeles CA
Posts: 61
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 17 Post(s)
(Thread Starter)
Quote:
Originally Posted by SoCalJim View Post
Drill and/or Drexel with wire wheel and/or conical wire brush. The Thermo-Tec is self-adhering with a paper backing you peel off prior to installation. I think the padding uses a spray adhesive.

The factory deadening material is not uniformly fit to the floors and transmission tunnel. In some places it has a death grip on the floor, and in other places it is loosely fit or has air gaps. It also doesnít cover everything. Any moisture in the carpeting from prior heater leaks, spilled drinks, etc. could lead to surface rust. Thatís what I found in my 280Z.

Now that Iím done with the floors, Iím attacking the surface rust on mt firewall.
Man that's excellent. So it's worth taking off all the factory stuff to see what's underneath. Kind of like catching a bad tooth in time to do a filling, instead of waiting too long and having to yank it and put in an implant.

'78 280Z
ZZPiloto56 is offline  
post #6 of 24 (permalink) Old 06-15-2018, 07:11 PM
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: Southern Oregon
Posts: 24
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
In my experience, the factory sound deadening hid a couple areas that needed attention. Best to take it off since you've come this far. I used a $12 electric scraper from Harbor Freight with a thin chisel/cutting piece attached (came with the scraper). It's loud! Wear ear plugs.
oregonipa is offline  
post #7 of 24 (permalink) Old 06-15-2018, 08:22 PM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2016
Posts: 511
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 107 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by ZZPiloto56 View Post
Man that's excellent. So it's worth taking off all the factory stuff to see what's underneath. Kind of like catching a bad tooth in time to do a filling, instead of waiting too long and having to yank it and put in an implant.
compliments on the analogy

1978 280z - stock L28 engine - Dallas, TX
chaseincats is offline  
post #8 of 24 (permalink) Old 06-15-2018, 09:21 PM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Denver, Colorado
Posts: 202
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 24 Post(s)
Dry Ice Version

Mix chunks of dry ice and rubbing alcohol in a bucket to make a super-cold "slurry" and pour it onto the insulation. In about 15-20 seconds you'll hear cracking noises. The slurry freezes the rubber into a solid, which then breaks apart and pops free of the steel floor in big chunks. It's easier and faster than using a heat gun and scraper, and a lot less messy. Make sure you wear gloves while handling the dry ice because it will burn skin, and only do it in a well-ventilated area.

Watch your weight or someone might steal it
Acemon is offline  
post #9 of 24 (permalink) Old 06-15-2018, 09:37 PM Thread Starter
Member
 
ZZPiloto56's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Los Angeles CA
Posts: 61
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 17 Post(s)
(Thread Starter)
Quote:
Originally Posted by oregonipa View Post
In my experience, the factory sound deadening hid a couple areas that needed attention. Best to take it off since you've come this far. I used a $12 electric scraper from Harbor Freight with a thin chisel/cutting piece attached (came with the scraper). It's loud! Wear ear plugs.
Let the mini jackhammer rip. Thanks for the suggestion.

'78 280Z
ZZPiloto56 is offline  
post #10 of 24 (permalink) Old 06-15-2018, 09:51 PM Thread Starter
Member
 
ZZPiloto56's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Los Angeles CA
Posts: 61
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 17 Post(s)
(Thread Starter)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Acemon View Post
Mix chunks of dry ice and rubbing alcohol in a bucket to make a super-cold "slurry" and pour it onto the insulation. In about 15-20 seconds you'll hear cracking noises. The slurry freezes the rubber into a solid, which then breaks apart and pops free of the steel floor in big chunks. It's easier and faster than using a heat gun and scraper, and a lot less messy. Make sure you wear gloves while handling the dry ice because it will burn skin, and only do it in a well-ventilated area.
Fascinating. I do believe in the power of dry ice. This is a new application yet also makes sense. Some of the areas of insulation seem to be put on with JB Weld or the like, plus 40 years of cooking so it's like perma-tar. Whatever reasonable chiseling can't budge, I'm thinking this will. There's a liquor store selling dry ice down the street. I'm assuming the mixture will evaporate after I lay it on but would be ready to blot up and quickly dry the floor after. In the unlikely event it doesn't work I can always return to the liquor store for some painkiller..

'78 280Z
ZZPiloto56 is offline  
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Nissan : Datsun ZCar forum :Nissan Z Forum: 240Z to 370Z forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page



  Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
por-15 floor patches, are they worth it? Jaket2k9 70-83 Tech Discussion Forum 7 06-10-2015 09:16 PM
Restoring floor boards with Por 15 kit. Remove "tar like" factory piece or not? 1972ZEric 70-83 Tech Discussion Forum 5 01-31-2011 09:18 AM
POR-15 floor board RESTO kit jozup 70-83 Tech Discussion Forum 4 06-06-2002 02:21 PM
Jenkins - What is a POR 15 Kit ?? Eric73_240Z 70-83 Tech Discussion Forum 3 11-06-1999 10:42 PM
Por-15 for real? Owen 70-83 Tech Discussion Forum 10 10-28-1999 11:13 PM

Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome
 


Content Relevant URLs by vBSEO 3.6.1