Is this floor a case for POR-15 or........? - Page 2 - Nissan : Datsun ZCar forum :Nissan Z Forum: 240Z to 370Z
User Tag List

 3Likes
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
post #11 of 24 (permalink) Old 06-18-2018, 05:14 PM Thread Starter
Member
 
ZZPiloto56's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Los Angeles CA
Posts: 61
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 17 Post(s)
(Thread Starter)
I have to wonder if it's necessary to go "all the way" with the removal of the tar insulation, at least for driver's side. It looks to be a true no-rust floor. The part near driver's heel that I scraped away took all my strength and a half hour alone. I would do the dry ice method, or even just chisel for days, but do you think it's necessary? It also looks like it was painted AFTER the insulation was put down, just by looking at the body-colored floor grommet. Anyway, the underseat part is also clean, but I used adhesive remover along with scraping. Passenger side is a different story, and must be wire-brushed, as you can see the "surface" rust in previous post pic. But maybe not driver's side? Question: Can I use alcohol to remove any greasy residue of 3M adhesive remover, to make the floors accept the primer and paint? Anyway, little by little...
Attached Images
File Type: jpg LF Floor.jpg (149.5 KB, 10 views)

'78 280Z
ZZPiloto56 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #12 of 24 (permalink) Old 06-19-2018, 01:23 PM
Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Columbia, SC
Posts: 69
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5 Post(s)
Garage
I found the best way is just to remove it all. Rust or no rust, it'll save you from having to do it again later. Dry ice works wonders, but you'll need a lot. I found about 80% can be removed with dry ice directly, the rest just needed to stay cold to be chipped off. I used a wire wheel, followed by a plastic wheel, for cleaning up any small bits still left, but be careful if it starts to warm up. It'll load up that wire wheel and smear it everywhere in an instant.

Columbia, SC
'82 280ZX Turbo
N/A cam
Tokico HPs/Eibach springs
Turbonetics T3/T04e w/ stage 3 compressor wheel @ 12psi
3" exhaust to Borla XR-1
82turboman is offline  
post #13 of 24 (permalink) Old 06-19-2018, 09:44 PM Thread Starter
Member
 
ZZPiloto56's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Los Angeles CA
Posts: 61
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 17 Post(s)
(Thread Starter)
Quote:
Originally Posted by 82turboman View Post
I found the best way is just to remove it all. Rust or no rust, it'll save you from having to do it again later. Dry ice works wonders, but you'll need a lot. I found about 80% can be removed with dry ice directly, the rest just needed to stay cold to be chipped off. I used a wire wheel, followed by a plastic wheel, for cleaning up any small bits still left, but be careful if it starts to warm up. It'll load up that wire wheel and smear it everywhere in an instant.
So the dual method is best. I'll try the dry ice then I'll follow up with chiseler and wheels. You're right, I guess the only way to be sure and complete is to get it all off. Besides, I'm thinking the new insulation I put in will be lighter and quieter anyway. Thanks to all for the suggestions so far, I'm using elements of all of them. Hand scraping alone is just proving way too slow and brutal. Better to put both dry ice and power tools to work. Pics/report to follow.

'78 280Z
ZZPiloto56 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #14 of 24 (permalink) Old 06-20-2018, 04:14 AM Thread Starter
Member
 
ZZPiloto56's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Los Angeles CA
Posts: 61
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 17 Post(s)
(Thread Starter)
Dry ice results

The dry ice works, I'm a believer. These pics are after using 20 lbs of it in 2 separate applications and mixed with alcohol. Followed by some scraping/chiseling. Still have a lot of cleanup scraping to do, and I still have to ice the center tunnel, but it went much quicker and quieter than scraping alone. I notice what looks like seam sealer on some of the major seams, which is even more difficult nasty stuff to work with. Assuming I get it all off or most of it, would I spread some new seam sealer down, like Eastwood, etc? Or will the new acoustic liner plus padding plus carpet be enough? The rust-colored areas are both hazy surface oxidation and strange paint spray. After sanding, I was going to POR15 the floors. I'd rather paint with brush than spray it, though I might end up spraying body color on top of that. Don't know what "people do" in this case, I'm a cub. But thanks for the help including the dry ice to begin with, and the other suggestions. A couple days ago I could hardly get my mind around this. Soon I'll be gliding in a quiet carpeted carriage. Thanks to this forum of Zilosophers.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg LF Dry Ice.jpg (160.1 KB, 14 views)
File Type: jpg RF Dry Ice.jpg (144.5 KB, 12 views)

'78 280Z
ZZPiloto56 is offline  
post #15 of 24 (permalink) Old 06-21-2018, 11:37 PM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Denver, Colorado
Posts: 202
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 24 Post(s)
Way to go!


Now you need to think about the drain holes. If you have enough water inside your car that you need a drain plug, you probably have bigger problems to deal with. I welded patches on the underside and covered them with seam sealer.


I bought enough sound deadening insulation to cover every interior surface, with two layers over the transmission tunnel. It oughta be pretty quiet.

Watch your weight or someone might steal it
Acemon is offline  
post #16 of 24 (permalink) Old 06-22-2018, 01:10 AM
Member
 
SoCalJim's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Orange County, CA
Posts: 68
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 15 Post(s)
Garage
I’m planning on a double layer over the transmission tunnel and the floors in front of the seats. Acemon, did you put sound deadening over the rear wheels, the shock towers, and on the side panels below the quarter windows? I haven’t decided on doing those areas because I don’t know how the thickness of the sound deadening might impact the fit of the new vinyl I have yet to install.

Jim
1975 280Z, Metallic Green
Long Gone: 1975 and 1978 280Zs, both Metallic Brown

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

SoCalJim is offline  
post #17 of 24 (permalink) Old 06-22-2018, 01:55 PM Thread Starter
Member
 
ZZPiloto56's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Los Angeles CA
Posts: 61
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 17 Post(s)
(Thread Starter)
Your trans tunnel will be cool and quiet. I'm assuming we cover every part of floor with the new insulation, even the raised parts where the seat bolt holes are. .I know there are numerous choices, I think I'm going with Rattletrap. And what are you painting the floor panels with? POR 15?

'78 280Z
ZZPiloto56 is offline  
post #18 of 24 (permalink) Old 06-22-2018, 06:55 PM
Member
 
SoCalJim's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Orange County, CA
Posts: 68
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 15 Post(s)
Garage
I used a rusty metal primer followed by a grey primer. The seat rails are further covered with paint to match the car's color. The rails aren't covered by the sound deadener. I don't recommend using the sound deadener too far up the firewall. I've heard of the tar substance melting. There, I will use a new firewall insulator pad.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg IMG_2551.jpg (381.7 KB, 6 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_2556.jpg (501.5 KB, 8 views)

Jim
1975 280Z, Metallic Green
Long Gone: 1975 and 1978 280Zs, both Metallic Brown

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


Last edited by SoCalJim; 06-22-2018 at 06:59 PM.
SoCalJim is offline  
post #19 of 24 (permalink) Old 06-23-2018, 03:39 AM Thread Starter
Member
 
ZZPiloto56's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Los Angeles CA
Posts: 61
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 17 Post(s)
(Thread Starter)
Quote:
Originally Posted by SoCalJim View Post
I used a rusty metal primer followed by a grey primer. The seat rails are further covered with paint to match the car's color. The rails aren't covered by the sound deadener. I don't recommend using the sound deadener too far up the firewall. I've heard of the tar substance melting. There, I will use a new firewall insulator pad.
Much appreciated. Say, were your floors completely sanded to bare metal before painting, no traces of oxidation? Or is it ok to have some discoloration/surface oxidation even after some sanding? Won't the rusty metal primer handle a bit of light rusty residue? I'm not able to completely eliminate some of the staining/discoloration in a few areas.

'78 280Z
ZZPiloto56 is offline  
post #20 of 24 (permalink) Old 06-23-2018, 10:03 AM
Member
 
SoCalJim's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Orange County, CA
Posts: 68
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 15 Post(s)
Garage
Mostly sanded, but still with some discolored spots. It should encapsulate the remaining oxidation.

Jim
1975 280Z, Metallic Green
Long Gone: 1975 and 1978 280Zs, both Metallic Brown

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

SoCalJim is offline  
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Nissan : Datsun ZCar forum :Nissan Z Forum: 240Z to 370Z forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page



  Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
por-15 floor patches, are they worth it? Jaket2k9 70-83 Tech Discussion Forum 7 06-10-2015 09:16 PM
Restoring floor boards with Por 15 kit. Remove "tar like" factory piece or not? 1972ZEric 70-83 Tech Discussion Forum 5 01-31-2011 09:18 AM
POR-15 floor board RESTO kit jozup 70-83 Tech Discussion Forum 4 06-06-2002 02:21 PM
Jenkins - What is a POR 15 Kit ?? Eric73_240Z 70-83 Tech Discussion Forum 3 11-06-1999 10:42 PM
Por-15 for real? Owen 70-83 Tech Discussion Forum 10 10-28-1999 11:13 PM

Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome
 


Content Relevant URLs by vBSEO 3.6.1