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post #31 of 37 (permalink) Old 05-29-2018, 09:43 PM Thread Starter
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To answer your questions in order:
1) if you are talking about driver/passenger door weatherstripping and not the hatch door - get rid of that stuff - its gonna be slam city. Go to the scrapyard and get the sportage door stripping, no slamming required
2) the aftermarket ones i had would not stay glued at the top and would sneak out - only the OEM one (which is thinner) stayed glued - but that could be my hatch. If they didn't work for other folks they wouldnt be selling them
I should have specified hatch instead of door, but man that's good to know about your Kia seal recommendation for laying down better in the doors. This is because it's a much bigger pain to keep slamming a door shut, as opposed to the hatch which I'd probably open less than once every couple months. Besides, unlike the door, I don't have to slam the hatch, just put a little more well-placed weight on it with hands when closing. Also thanks for the heads up with gluing the top area, I'll go over that carefully, if I stick with the aftermarket hatch seal. It's dry-fitted right now and seems all in there ok, maybe my upper hatch is shaped right. I'd prefer using the OEM as you did, but the savings is so huge, and in my case I've got more parts to get (ah, do they ever stop, noooo). Pardon being so indecisive, but I want to get the hatch really right, so I'll look it over yet again before gluing. The thought of having to pull it off again, scrape all the adhesive again, throw away the unreturnable seal and then in fact buy the OEM after all that, well.....so I'm going to look it over once more. If the downside is only a bit of difficult hatch closing, hmmm... And maybe the hardness dissipates in time. Like you say, it must be working for enough people out there somehow, some way. But right now, still processing, processing....

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post #32 of 37 (permalink) Old 05-29-2018, 10:33 PM
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I should have specified hatch instead of door, but man that's good to know about your Kia seal recommendation for laying down better in the doors. This is because it's a much bigger pain to keep slamming a door shut, as opposed to the hatch which I'd probably open less than once every couple months. Besides, unlike the door, I don't have to slam the hatch, just put a little more well-placed weight on it with hands when closing. Also thanks for the heads up with gluing the top area, I'll go over that carefully, if I stick with the aftermarket hatch seal. It's dry-fitted right now and seems all in there ok, maybe my upper hatch is shaped right. I'd prefer using the OEM as you did, but the savings is so huge, and in my case I've got more parts to get (ah, do they ever stop, noooo). Pardon being so indecisive, but I want to get the hatch really right, so I'll look it over yet again before gluing. The thought of having to pull it off again, scrape all the adhesive again, throw away the unreturnable seal and then in fact buy the OEM after all that, well.....so I'm going to look it over once more. If the downside is only a bit of difficult hatch closing, hmmm... And maybe the hardness dissipates in time. Like you say, it must be working for enough people out there somehow, some way. But right now, still processing, processing....
Well, even with the oem seal, I still need to slam it. Do know though that the rubber needs to be trained to sit in the right spot regardless, just less so with the OEM in my experience. This happened to me WITH the oem seal not going flush (one again) with the top of the hatch which let fumes in just as bad as before. So what I did was grab a credit card and just run it between the hatch and rubber up top to straighten it out and make sure it sat flush, which fixed the issue.

I need to do this every time I open/close the hatch, but to a lesser extent each time as the rubber adjusts.

1978 280z - stock L28 engine - Dallas, TX
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post #33 of 37 (permalink) Old 05-29-2018, 10:53 PM Thread Starter
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Well, even with the oem seal, I still need to slam it. Do know though that the rubber needs to be trained to sit in the right spot regardless, just less so with the OEM in my experience. This happened to me WITH the oem seal not going flush (one again) with the top of the hatch which let fumes in just as bad as before. So what I did was grab a credit card and just run it between the hatch and rubber up top to straighten it out and make sure it sat flush, which fixed the issue.

I need to do this every time I open/close the hatch, but to a lesser extent each time as the rubber adjusts.
Good to know that when comparing. I haven't heard that info before. So it's a matter of deciding how much is too much pressure to close it, and whether it's all sitting the right way, knowing over time there will be some improvement if the "training" is done. Whatever it takes.

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post #34 of 37 (permalink) Old 05-30-2018, 05:11 PM Thread Starter
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The gluing has begun. Man that weatherstrip adhesive is some finicky brew. Lessons learned: for me it's at least a 3 or 4 day operation to do it right. This is because I must let it fully dry after bonding each section, preferably overnight, because it takes a long time to really set. Making a bead with the glue, then smoothing it down to a thin strip, and adding some to the inside of the seal before joining and securing snugly with clamps/tape. Even after it's tacky within a few minutes, join the surfaces and leave them alone, but it's not like contact cement, it's not done yet. Wait, a nice long evening, go back and check and re-glue troublesome areas. I'm in my second day, and the first day was a messy nightmare because I didn't LEAVE IT ALONE. I just had to check and see if it was bonded, and disturbed the whole thing. So, now it's getting much better and I do a few sections and pull myself away for a night and come back for more. Oh, and you can lay strips of tape right alongside the edge of the seal on the lower deck to catch the excess and make it look a lot neater without scraping. Whether or not you use gloves, well in this case they are very helpful. I feel crude and careless, but I'm keeping a handle on her.
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post #35 of 37 (permalink) Old 05-30-2018, 09:19 PM
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Good to know that when comparing. I haven't heard that info before. So it's a matter of deciding how much is too much pressure to close it, and whether it's all sitting the right way, knowing over time there will be some improvement if the "training" is done. Whatever it takes.
Nah, slam it shut and leave it. Then do the adjustments from the inside (if necessary).

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post #36 of 37 (permalink) Old 06-07-2018, 04:31 AM Thread Starter
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REPORT: Well, the aftermarket hatch seal is all glued in, and though it took a few days of re-checking and re-gluing sections, it's done! The weatherstrip adhesive can be unforgiving and difficult, and some sections required re-doing. In hindsight I should have cleaned the rubber maybe with light alcohol, but it was not too bad. I test-drove the car twice. And....no fumes! It's gratifying. Big step forward in the resuscitation of this machine. So, all told it was hatch seal, taillight gaskets, hatch plugs and hatch deck lid panel re-sealing. Yes, closing the lid takes a bit more weight but that's because of the beefier seal, and it's wayyyy worth it. Glad to be on to the next issues!

'78 280Z
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post #37 of 37 (permalink) Old 06-07-2018, 10:19 AM
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REPORT: Well, the aftermarket hatch seal is all glued in, and though it took a few days of re-checking and re-gluing sections, it's done! The weatherstrip adhesive can be unforgiving and difficult, and some sections required re-doing. In hindsight I should have cleaned the rubber maybe with light alcohol, but it was not too bad. I test-drove the car twice. And....no fumes! It's gratifying. Big step forward in the resuscitation of this machine. So, all told it was hatch seal, taillight gaskets, hatch plugs and hatch deck lid panel re-sealing. Yes, closing the lid takes a bit more weight but that's because of the beefier seal, and it's wayyyy worth it. Glad to be on to the next issues!
congratulations, glad to hear it

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