Replaced clutch slave cylinder. Clutch not working. - Nissan : Datsun ZCar forum :Nissan Z Forum: 240Z to 370Z
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-23-2017, 08:57 PM Thread Starter
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Replaced clutch slave cylinder. Clutch not working.

I just recently got back to working on my 240z after it sat for a little while, and the first thing I noticed was the clutch was rock hard. I eventually figured out it was a problem with my clutch slave cylinder being seized, so I replaced it. Now my problem is my clutch pedal feels soft. I manually bled the slave cylinder for a pretty long time, and then I bled it with a vacuum bleeder, but the pedal is still very soft. I can't put it in gear or anything when the car is running. Right now I have a piece of wood holding down the clutch pedal that I'll leave overnight, but I have a feeling it won't completely solve my issue. I can see the slave moving when I press in the clutch pedal, but it seems like it isn't moving enough to disengage the clutch. Does anyone have any ideas of things I could try? Thanks.

Last edited by cch98; 03-23-2017 at 09:00 PM.
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-23-2017, 10:37 PM
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Check the length of the push rod on your replacement cylinder. I'd bet it's shorter than your original. I had the same problem and ended up swapping the original rod into my new cylinder.

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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-24-2017, 01:03 AM
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Or the seals in the master need to be replaced.



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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-24-2017, 07:55 AM
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Bleeding a clutch slave cylinder is a nightmare. If you can reverse bleed it, that usually works best.
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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-25-2017, 12:41 PM
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Originally Posted by beg3yrs View Post
Check the length of the push rod on your replacement cylinder. I'd bet it's shorter than your original. I had the same problem and ended up swapping the original rod into my new cylinder.

yes, i definately second this ^^^^^^
where did you get the part from? i went through this with autozone- the master cylinder i got was shorter than the original and did not work. went to NAPA and got an OEM part and it worked like charm. remember there is an adjustment nut on there (for clutch)
case in point, make sure you get good replacement parts for the clutch hydraulic system.
you did install it correctly, yes?

Bon

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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-25-2017, 01:04 PM
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Your kidding right? Bleeding a clutch master/slave cylinder assembly is very basic. First off maybe you should take a short class in hydraulics, and you would know the depressed pedal with a stick is a total waste of time. Sometimes I really wonder where some of you guys get your ideas.


The system is simple, you have a master cylinder, that has a rubber cup to produce the pressure on the system, the cup moves back and forth so when you depress the pedal, the cup pushes the
hydraulic fluid at the other end of the system, the slave cylinder, which also has a slider and rubber cup to seal the system. So as the master cylinder cup moves to push the fluid out of the cylinder, the fluid goes to the slave cylinder, and the slave cylinder has the slider that moves to accept the fluid from the master cylinder, which in turn pushes the pushrod out of the cylinder to move the clutch arm.
No pressure loss, no leaks, as one decreases the fluid volume of the cylinder (the master cylinder) the other receives the fluid (the slave cylinder) and pushes the clutch arm.
Mushy action indicates you have a leak, or the rubber hose is expanding somewhat, that is why people go to steel braided lines for the brakes also, but hose expansion doesn't explain what you have described, you have a leak in the system, look for dripping oil at the slave cylinder, and the master cylinder. the only other thing is that you still have air in the system, and if you cant figure that procedure out take a class on how to purge a hydraulic system of air, or go to UTube and see what they have.



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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-25-2017, 03:02 PM
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Your kidding right? Bleeding a clutch master/slave cylinder assembly is very basic. First off maybe you should take a short class in hydraulics, and you would know the depressed pedal with a stick is a total waste of time. Sometimes I really wonder where some of you guys get your ideas.


The system is simple, you have a master cylinder, that has a rubber cup to produce the pressure on the system, the cup moves back and forth so when you depress the pedal, the cup pushes the
hydraulic fluid at the other end of the system, the slave cylinder, which also has a slider and rubber cup to seal the system. So as the master cylinder cup moves to push the fluid out of the cylinder, the fluid goes to the slave cylinder, and the slave cylinder has the slider that moves to accept the fluid from the master cylinder, which in turn pushes the pushrod out of the cylinder to move the clutch arm.
No pressure loss, no leaks, as one decreases the fluid volume of the cylinder (the master cylinder) the other receives the fluid (the slave cylinder) and pushes the clutch arm.
Mushy action indicates you have a leak, or the rubber hose is expanding somewhat, that is why people go to steel braided lines for the brakes also, but hose expansion doesn't explain what you have described, you have a leak in the system, look for dripping oil at the slave cylinder, and the master cylinder. the only other thing is that you still have air in the system, and if you cant figure that procedure out take a class on how to purge a hydraulic system of air, or go to UTube and see what they have.


Maybe you should take a class in manners or how to calm down. I was a hydraulic mechanic in the USAF. Bleeding a clutch slave cylinder can be a long process to get it right. Doing it wrong only makes it more of a nightmare.
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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-25-2017, 04:37 PM
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Wow... Nightmare?
@jeffp +1

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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-25-2017, 04:56 PM Thread Starter
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Alright. I tried reverse bleeding the system. I saw no air bubbles coming out of the master cylinder, but even after a good bit of bleeding the pedal is still soft. I will check out the new push rod distance when I can. I got the slave from O'Reillys. They had two options, so I can try the other one they carry if this one doesn't work out. Here is a video of what the slave looks like when I press the clutch pedal all the way in, then back out.

https://youtu.be/-XE5_ymU1g8

I don't know what the typical travel distance is, so is there anything here that could help diagnose my problem? Also, the stick trick I tried was just something to do over night when I wasn't working on the car anyways.
Thanks
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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-25-2017, 08:23 PM
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On my '72 240Z the problems have been with the clutch master cylinder, not the slave cylinder. I would look there first. I bought mine in '72 new and the clutch master cylinder failure and water pump failure were recurring problems back then.
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