Quote:dommer331 said this:
I just bought on of these for my 04 z and I understand the splicing from the module but now I need to splice it to the intake air temp sensor. All of the wires are connected to the MAF (5) total. Do I just pull the out of the back and connect the tip of the wire to the new splice?
Ok, with all due respect to you, this chip will not work. I'm not even going to approach this from the "this is a scam" point of view, but instead, let me explain the issues:
(1) The MAF measures how much air (or O2) is flowing into the intake. You can alter this amount to trick the ECU into thinking you have a different amount, but all you will do is screw up the air-fuel ratio and run rich (bad) or lean (bad). Getting a small amount of horsepower and leaning out your engine is a very poor idea. The stock fuel map is nearly optimal for power output, with a margin of exception that can be tuned up with a proper tuning setup (+5-10 hp).
(2) The 350z engine is a 3.5L V6. An efficient NON-TURBO engine will obtain around 75 hp / L of displacement, because the proper air-fuel ratio for that displacement sits just above that point. A super-efficient implementation using very high RPMs to push more air can hit 100 hp / L, at best (such as the S2000). Nissan has managed to squeeze nearly 86 hp / L from the engine in stock form, which is an incredible feat for a low-RPM engine. You are hard pressed to improve on this amazing stock configuration. Screwing with the stock engine CANNOT produce any significant gains without a turbocharger because you are limited by displacement and fuel ratio. To go higher, you need more oxygen, which only comes from a forced induction setup.
(3) Aha, you say, then we'll do what the S2000 does and get 100 hp/L! Why not? Because it is very difficult to raise RPM peak on an engine, and you can't do it without rebuilding the engine to handle a few thousand more RPM at a huge cost. This is a mechanical, not electronic, improvement.
So, you are left with only a few choices for power improvements on the stock car. They are:
(1) Remapped ECU for tiny horsepower gains.
(2) Conical intake to help suck in more air.
(3) High-flow exhaust to increase air flow.
and now.. forced induction..
(4) Supercharger. Big power at low RPM, but lower peak horsepower.
(5) Turbocharger(s). Lowers power at low RPM, but huge gains at peak boost.
(6) Nitrous Oxide. Temporary power gains that slowly eat your engine, leading to eventual loss of compression and inevitable rebuild. Not recommended.
and now strokers and rebuilds..
(6) Stroker kit to increase arm throw and overall displacement. Costly, but reliable.
(7) Tigher valve springs, forged pistons and crank. Increase peak RPM and stress tolerance. Costly.
etc.
In other words, you have to pay in cash to get horsepower. There is no quick fix UNLESS you own a car that is already designed for a turbo from the ground up.