Ask and you shall receive. The precedure is simple.

Products needed:
-one can of SEM flexiable primer surfacer
-one can OF SEM texture coating
-one can of SEM satin clear coat or Performix plasti dip(great grip)



1. Once the steering wheel is removed, remove bracket in center...there's about 8 or 9 philips head screws. Mask metal bracket in the center.

2. Sand wheel as smooth as possible with 220 grit paper...the grey type.

3. If you have divots and scrapes on the wheel after sanding, then you have different options on filler. Since it was light filling, I used Gold Bondo. Apply w/ a rubber spreader and contour with your finger. Wear gloves if you like.

4. Once bondo dry or any flexiable filler, sand smooth with 220 paper.

5. Once sanded to your liking, prime with SEM flexiable primer surfacer


6. Let dry, sand with 240 grit sand paper, check for flaws and either sand these lightly while "feathering" out or refill with filler, sand and reprime.

7. Once wheel is primed, sanded and smooth to your liking you are ready for finish.

8. Spray finish over entire wheel, several light to medium coats until wheel is entirely consistent. Let dry.


9. Once completely dry, about 20 min. spray SEM satin finish clear coat or clear Plasti Dip, about 3-4 light coats. Let dry at least for a day or 2. I let mine dry for a week before installing. Looks and feels great.

Before




After

I wonder how well this would work on an early TT rear spoiler before final paint.

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*-- Just some stuffy advice from a crabby old fart who's too set in his ways. --*

use sem flexiable primer...

Thank you. It is certainly useful.

I left out a step...oops. Before you spray clear coat, lightly sand with 400 grit sandpaper being careful not to leave deep scratches...just smooth it out. Then spray clear coat. Believe me, this is durable and grips well. No cracking, no flaking. If your wheel needs cleaning prior to sanding, wipe down with rubbing alcohol or denatured alcohol. Be sure to dust with a slightly alcohol damp cloth after sanding, prior to primer.

Please edit your original post to include that addendum.

Zazu, to the FAQ please.

Sigma, top notch stuff man. Very very nice.

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"I am 18 [and] I am going to buy my first car. I am looking at getting a used 300ZX twin turbo, probably already with a body kit and a few mods like ECU . . . I am looking to boost this thing to 900+hp on 32psi." -- kamakaze

[20:51] zazupilot: i'm home in my jammies drinking bourbon

Yeah, thanks.

thanks guys...I appreciate it. I wish I would have taken step by step pics.

Z1 Zonly...how do you edited your original post.

Look in the bottom right corner of your post. It says:

Quote:

Options: Reply • Quote • Follow This Thread • Report This Message • Edit Post

Click 'Edit Post' and have at it.

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"I am 18 [and] I am going to buy my first car. I am looking at getting a used 300ZX twin turbo, probably already with a body kit and a few mods like ECU . . . I am looking to boost this thing to 900+hp on 32psi." -- kamakaze

[20:51] zazupilot: i'm home in my jammies drinking bourbon



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit was 2008:03:22:05:47:59.

Quote:

thanks guys...I appreciate it. I wish I would have taken step by step pics.

You borrow my steering wheel and do a step-by-step if you like.;)

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*-- Just some stuffy advice from a crabby old fart who's too set in his ways. --*

JT240Z Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> >
> You borrow my steering wheel and do a step-by-step
> if you like.;)

That's a good idea. And anybody else for that matter. Maybe we could work out some trade or partial trade. I do the wheel and you have, a catback exhaust or one piece drive shaft for example for trade/partial.

Ya right.

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*-- Just some stuffy advice from a crabby old fart who's too set in his ways. --*

JT240Z Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Ya right.


Ya right? I beg your pardon sir. I made a fair offer and you counter with: "Ya right." Perhaps my ability to simplify the process because of my years of professional paint and finishing and re-finish expertise, somehow cheapened it to you. Leather comes from cows and cows are not all black, tan, brown or whatever other color leather out there that exist. Therefore, there must be some process in color coating this material. The process I offer is tried and true and I could easily charge, and have $80-$120 for this service. Why...my knowledge, experience, and expertise. Pro's always make it look easy...

I think the "ya right" had something to do with Catbacks running $600-$1500 and 1-piece Driveshafts in the $250-$350 range.

not a fair trade for $80-$120 work, ya think?

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2010 ZCON in Nashville
middletennesseezclub.com - nissansportmag.com
Add to the Map of Ethanol Free Gas stations!

You hit it on the nose Jesse.

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*-- Just some stuffy advice from a crabby old fart who's too set in his ways. --*

Sigma Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------

> That's a good idea. And anybody else for that
> matter. Maybe we could work out some trade or
> partial trade. I do the wheel and you have, a
> catback exhaust or one piece drive shaft for
> example for trade/partial.

Give the guy a break, that doesn't sound unreasonable for a used catback or used 1-piece driveshaft, especially for a partial trade (which means trade plus cash $$$).



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit was 2008:03:23:11:12:55.

Thanks for the infomercial.

touche' p4l1ndr0m3...