Ok the car ran until fuel injector 1 started leaking. Since i've replaced it, the car starts sputters for a second and quits.
It has a new:
Battery
Positive Battery Cable
Starter
Plugs and wires
CHTS
Thermostat
Water Pump
Distributor Rotor and Cap
Fuel Pump
Fuel Filter
Oil Filter
And i do have all the fluids filled to the factory recommendations. I don't understand why its not running. Any ideas??

Check that the plugs are going to the correct cylinders, verify all the wires are properly seated on their plugs.

Verify the position of the timing belt (I'm assuming it was removed or untensioned when you replaced the waterpump and/or CHTS?) If its a tooth off on one side, or installed incorrectly it can cause this.

Verify the ignition timing is somewhere close to the spec for your vehicle, which should be printed on the sticker under the hood above the air filter.

---

----------
1985 300ZX n/a

See my Z project

Check AND clean the connection to the CTS. Norm K.

I have had 3 CHTS fail at the cold engine resistance bench test, but that has never prevented my Z from starting. It only causes cold engine driveability problems that go away as soon as the engine warms up, so I'm going to say that whatever is causing your car not to start, it is not the CHTS.

"It only causes cold engine driveability problems that go away as soon as the engine warms up"

you need to re-read in the FSM how the engine uses the CHTS.. It being an "EFI Choke" is only part of its functionality.

I knew my comment was likely to cause controversy, but that is my experience; however, my Z is an 88 with the fail-safe system. All three of my failed CHTS gave infinite resistance on cold-engine resistance tests, yet my car has never failed to start or idle smoothly because of it. The only symptom is cold engine hesitation when driving; resistance is within specs when the engine is warm. It may be different with the earlier models; you probably know red, but I don't. Cabbott, what year is your Z?

resistance is in spec because the defect in the wiring or resistor finds continuity again when it warms up. The 88 ECU has no special "fail safe" system compared with any of the other ECUs. If the ECU detects a resistance fault in the CHTS it defaults to the head being 74F at all times. Chances are - the head is around this temperature when you try and start it - therefore you have no starting problems. Put it in 0F temperatures and I guarantee it will not start.

Red, I live in Virginia. The temperature here rarely reaches 0F, but it often gets below freezing. I have driven this car through four winters, and it only had a properly functioning CHTS for one of those winters, yet it has never failed to start because of the temperature. The 1988 FSM describes the fail-safe system and calls it by that name on EFEC page 30.

yes, I realize what the fail safe system is, but it is no different than the other fail safe systems in any of the other ECUs. Nevertheless - the CHTS functions as described in the FSM with regard to defaulting to 74F upon failure.

In an earlier post Mister T said "Going by the available PDF FSMs, the "fail safe" systems were built into 85+ ECUs and covered both CHTS and MAF system failures...The 84 PDF FSM does not describe a fail-safe facility," so if you believe Mister T, and Cabbott's Z is an 84, it may not have a fail-safe system. All I'm saying is that Cabbott shouldn't waste his time or money on the CHTS because I know mine is bad, and my car always starts. The problem is elsewhere.

Trust me, the fail safe system is the same for '84. 74F on the CHTS and 2200 RPM for the AFM - its the same failsafe fuel/ign map.

Well i checked the plug wires and they're all right. Did a spark test and i have spark. So i have fuel, i have spark, so that leaves air? Where do i need to look>

you need to look for the intake system to be sealed and being metered correctly through the output of the AFM.

Ok I've been looking it looks alright and all hose clamps are tight.

do a pressure leak test

www.boostpro.net

check your cas?

CAS is good. I'm thinkin its a timing issue.

<object width="425" height="344"><param name="movie" value="

&hl=en&fs=1"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><embed src="

&hl=en&fs=1" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowfullscreen="true" width="425" height="344"></embed></object>

Are all the ground straps on?

Do you have any ECU codes?

If you have not touched any of the timing it cannot be the timing, however have you messed with anything apart from the Leads FPR and fuel injectors?

If ECU codes have not been retrieved yet, why not?

If the distributor was not removed during the injector work then nothing should have changed in the timing.
I would be inclined to connect a noid light to each of the connectors on the injector harness to ensure that all injectors are getting power and ground pulse.
Moving an old, baked harness around can trigger random and unhappy results.

---

KHGZ31JAMG