Ok - Thanks to all that answered my rookie questions - and to those that may weigh in here. It has taken me 4 months and now I am alomost ready to put it back together. Here is the situation:

76Z, no mods, all stock, 72k, first Z, first time working on any car

Clutch was slipping so I decided to replace (have a CF1 clutch). While tranny was off, decided to pull it apart for kicks, resurface the flywheel, replace throw out bearing, replace oil pan gasket, check out master, slave, piping, pulled exhaust and am regasket, and anything else I came across while doing this since I am not going to pull this again (for sometime I hope). I managed to pull the tranny, pull the clutch and fight with the flywheel (breaker bar finally did it with a rope tied around the bolts - hint from another search). Here are the pics..

The car



The engine



The clutch - is this dirty or what?? I couldn't believe the caked on dirt that came off it!






The flywheel (not resurfaced yet, but soon). I found shop that will do it for $35.





The "cleaned out" tranny







I will say that I have never worked on a car before (except an oil change in highschool 20 years ago) so I am a true rookie. I do have the FSM, Chilton, Haynes,and researched, researched, researched this site. I did have some help on the Tranny cause I did not have confidence in my knowledge - and I didn't want to screw it up too bad. Thanks to those that helped with my "easy questions" on this site so here are my last ones...

1) The FSM says to apply grease "including molybdenum disuplhide" to the main drive gear to slide the clutch up and down before you install. What the heck is that "moly stuff"? I looked for grease at Napa, AZ, Oriely and they have it... but none have this molydb... stuff. Any exact suggestions on what grease to get - and what is molybdenum disuplhide?

2) The FSM and Chilton say to apply oil gasket sealer to the gasket and specifc areas of the block (where the gasket is to go). It mentions silicone based... I have some for a water pump - but it is specifically called "Permatex Water pump and Themostat housin RTV silicon". It calls for a small bead of this stuff on the gasket.. can I use this or do I get another kind specific to the oil pan gasket?

3) Since there is no fluid in the Tranny is there a specific process that I need to do in order to fill it up? I was going to get the Redline MTL mentioned on Blue's site.. but wondered if I needed to "prep it" before or follow any special process in making sure it is "lubed up" before I start the car and start trying to put it in gear?

4) I saw a posting that referenced applying Permatex GREY - to seal the tranny when you re-attach. There is no mention in the FSM or any manual about "sealing the tranny" when you put it back on. Am I missing something?

5) When filling the clutch line with fluid - I am assuming that I follow the "bleeding process" to make sure that I have no air in the system. Right now it is totally empty. Correct?

Thanks again for anyone that can help.

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Cisco

The best stuff that I have found is indoor/outdoor or fish tank clear silicone by DAP or Dow Corning.. I usually use DAP stuff since ACE has it.

It holds up a lot better than any of the Automotive RTV junk that all the parts stores sell.

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'81 280ZX-N/A 2+2 - stolen on 11-9-2006 :-( - recovered 11-13-2006 :-D
'77 280 - now back to being my project car.
'76 280 2+2 - parts car - slowly being stripped

Nice! I found this pic on line

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1) Do not use very much of that moly lube, just a little tiny bit on the inside of the throw-out bearing, and that's it. Any grease in the bell housing could be spun out on to the friction surface.

2) For the water pump use Permatex anaerobic gasket sealer, for all other sealer needs, use RTV, I like the grey but it really doesn't matter (and don't put it all over the paper gaskets, only the small places indicated in the manual)

3) they sell tranny assembly lube, but if you only cleaned it out, just fill it until fluid comes out the hole.