Just took some intercooler piping in to get welded, picked up my downpipe, and bought an electric fan.

Hoping to install the fan tonight.

: )

good luck (: I didn't have much luck with one electric fan with my stock radiator. If you're using the factory radiator, i would advise two fans, one as a pusher and one as a puller, i also staggered them and got the best results. Once i switched to my aluminum sr20 radiator ive only been running one fan and actually overcool right now because i dont have it hooked up to a thermal switch.

Post pictures when you're done (:

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83 Turbo 280ZX - NSX Manual Boost Controller set @ 12psi , Greddy Type-S Blow Off Valve, Faze Boost Gauge, Air Fuel Ratio Gauge, NGK BRP6ES Plugs, Short Ram Intake, Full 3" Apexi Turboback Exhaust, 3" Test Pipe, Tokico Rear HP Shocks, Walbro 255 Fuel Pump, MSD Blaster 2 Ignition Coil, Gripforce Stage II Clutch, BF Goodrich G-Force Sport Tires, Port Matched, Ceramic Coated, and Header Wrapped Turbo Manifold and Downpipe, CX Racing SR20 Aluminum Radiator, CX Racing Front Mount Intercooler, Port Matched Z31 Watercooled T3 Turbo

SR20 Radiator Swap [www.zcar.com]

-Chris M., Arlington, TX

Alright sure will. : ) Didn't get around to installing the fan tonight, but hopefully tomorrow or the weekend.

What results did you get with just one fan with the stock radiator? I thought about mounting two but I didn't know the advantages.

well first off what size fan do you have? i have two 14" fans, i ran just one at first, and it got too hot, so i added a second pusher and it kept it within range, it would run 3/4 hot on a 100 degree day, thats about it, then my radiator started rusting out again, 2nd stock replacement (junkyard unit) so i ended up getting an aluminum radiator for an sr20 for $89 (cx racing) and haven't had any complaints since. I had to custom fabricate some mounts to mout it to the stock radiator support, but other than that it was easy, that and ended up using a mazda miata upper radiator hose, it cools so much better now, i would definately invest in one if you're going to go electric fans. I got mine off of ebay for $89 plus shipping. A buddy of mine uses the same radiator on his 2jz swapped s14 240sx w/ a t88 on it, he's had his for over a year now. Just a thought.

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83 Turbo 280ZX - NSX Manual Boost Controller set @ 12psi , Greddy Type-S Blow Off Valve, Faze Boost Gauge, Air Fuel Ratio Gauge, NGK BRP6ES Plugs, Short Ram Intake, Full 3" Apexi Turboback Exhaust, 3" Test Pipe, Tokico Rear HP Shocks, Walbro 255 Fuel Pump, MSD Blaster 2 Ignition Coil, Gripforce Stage II Clutch, BF Goodrich G-Force Sport Tires, Port Matched, Ceramic Coated, and Header Wrapped Turbo Manifold and Downpipe, CX Racing SR20 Aluminum Radiator, CX Racing Front Mount Intercooler, Port Matched Z31 Watercooled T3 Turbo

SR20 Radiator Swap [www.zcar.com]

-Chris M., Arlington, TX

I have one 16" installed as a puller on my N/A. It seems to work OK, but I haven't really tested it in hot weather yet. Kicks in when the gauge creeps above 60% and pulls the temp down to just below 50% in 2 minutes or so. I wish I had spent the extra bucks for a Flex-a-lite or other recognized brand instead of the auto store brand, just for peace of mind and extra CFMs.

im sure if you fabricated a shroud or had one fabricated it would cool MUCH better than mine did on the stock radiator, all im using is the shroud that is on the actual fan, so there is a lot of uncooled surface area, but with the aluminum radiator it isn't an issue. I still plan on shrouding it soon and wiring it to a thermal switch, im just working on other issues right now, like my engine rebuild lol.

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83 Turbo 280ZX - NSX Manual Boost Controller set @ 12psi , Greddy Type-S Blow Off Valve, Faze Boost Gauge, Air Fuel Ratio Gauge, NGK BRP6ES Plugs, Short Ram Intake, Full 3" Apexi Turboback Exhaust, 3" Test Pipe, Tokico Rear HP Shocks, Walbro 255 Fuel Pump, MSD Blaster 2 Ignition Coil, Gripforce Stage II Clutch, BF Goodrich G-Force Sport Tires, Port Matched, Ceramic Coated, and Header Wrapped Turbo Manifold and Downpipe, CX Racing SR20 Aluminum Radiator, CX Racing Front Mount Intercooler, Port Matched Z31 Watercooled T3 Turbo

SR20 Radiator Swap [www.zcar.com]

-Chris M., Arlington, TX

It's a 16" fan... it's pretty cold right now in my area so until it starts heating up again I won't have to worry about exterior temperature.

I get a lot of my parts from cx racing. I'll definitely look into the sr20 radiator. Does the radiator fill up the entire space in the engine bay?

And for the time being do you think it would be safe to run just the single pusher with the stock radiator?

Thanks

well what part of the country are you in? Im in texas so you can imagine it gets fairly hot over here in months other than november-february. You should be ok, the best answer is to try it and see what happens. The sr20 radiator is roughly 1.5" wider on each side compared to the stock datsun radiator, but its not too wide to fit, you will still be able to run intercooler piping around it as long as you enlarge the hole where the charcoal canister used to be. The reason you have to switch to a different upper radiator hose is because the nipple is roughly 2" further to the left than the stock radiator, so the stock upper hose is useless, unless you were to cut it and run a straight section of metal tubing, but i would suggest just getting the miata upper radiator hose. Its kind of a pest to get it to fit on the thermostat housing, but it will go on with a bit of persuasion.

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83 Turbo 280ZX - NSX Manual Boost Controller set @ 12psi , Greddy Type-S Blow Off Valve, Faze Boost Gauge, Air Fuel Ratio Gauge, NGK BRP6ES Plugs, Short Ram Intake, Full 3" Apexi Turboback Exhaust, 3" Test Pipe, Tokico Rear HP Shocks, Walbro 255 Fuel Pump, MSD Blaster 2 Ignition Coil, Gripforce Stage II Clutch, BF Goodrich G-Force Sport Tires, Port Matched, Ceramic Coated, and Header Wrapped Turbo Manifold and Downpipe, CX Racing SR20 Aluminum Radiator, CX Racing Front Mount Intercooler, Port Matched Z31 Watercooled T3 Turbo

SR20 Radiator Swap [www.zcar.com]

-Chris M., Arlington, TX

Alright I'll try that. I'm in Oklahoma, so the weather patterns are roughly the same. I plan on upgrading to the sr20 radiator though.

yea i would definately look into the sr20 radiator, it solved all of my cooling problems for good, the only reason i didn't go with a direct bolt in is because it was so much more expensive trying to find one that had the brackets to mount it to the stock locations, most of the universals i found that were within my budget were too big, or too small, then i found the sr20 radiator from my buddy with the 2jz s14 and decided to go that route.

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83 Turbo 280ZX - NSX Manual Boost Controller set @ 12psi , Greddy Type-S Blow Off Valve, Faze Boost Gauge, Air Fuel Ratio Gauge, NGK BRP6ES Plugs, Short Ram Intake, Full 3" Apexi Turboback Exhaust, 3" Test Pipe, Tokico Rear HP Shocks, Walbro 255 Fuel Pump, MSD Blaster 2 Ignition Coil, Gripforce Stage II Clutch, BF Goodrich G-Force Sport Tires, Port Matched, Ceramic Coated, and Header Wrapped Turbo Manifold and Downpipe, CX Racing SR20 Aluminum Radiator, CX Racing Front Mount Intercooler, Port Matched Z31 Watercooled T3 Turbo

SR20 Radiator Swap [www.zcar.com]

-Chris M., Arlington, TX

Hey comic what fan did you get? I'm having trouble finding one that will fit and not hit the waterpump pully.

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LAS VEGAS NEVADA

1976 280ZT, MegaSquirt, Type 3 kit, Miata Seats, FMIC, MBC, 81 turbo rims, corvette tail light mod INW.
"Tony D is like a high school girl, innocent in front of authorities, but naughty with sheep"

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