have a 77 280z and have flushed the system put new antifreeze in it, has new thermostat and water pump seems to be working properly,also advanced the timing, but when you drive it you only go two maybe three miles and its up to full temperature, any info would help alot. Thanks



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit was august 19, 02:21am.

I have a 76 280, it will run high temp just momentarily before the thermostat opens. Then my Z runs under it's 180 degree thermostat. If you continue to have problems with high temp try cracking the hood to safety catch, this allows air to flow thru the engnine compartment. If that helps then you need to vent the hood to allow air out of the engine compartment, there a lot of possibilities mainly dependent on your personal preference for vents.
Bill

It reaches temp quickly, sounds like a stuck thermostat. Just because it's new, doesn't mean it works properly.

Other than that, is it overheating or anything? Or just getting there fast?

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I'm concerned with all the rampant sex and nudity on TV but all I can do is sit at home shaking my fist.

I agree. Next time you take it for a spin and it starts to overheat, feel the radiator to see if it is getting hot. If not, then you need a new thermostat.

Cold engine. Put thermometer into radiator. Start car. Temp gauge should steadily rise. Thermometer should stay cold until thermostat opens at which point it should rise quickly to rated temp of thermostat. Slow steady thermometer rise indicates open thermostat. Thermometer & gauge should match at cold & hot engines else 1 is measuring wrong.

What's full temperature? Is it overheating or just running up to operating temp? I think it's normal for it to climb to operating temp after a few miles. If it's overheating then check hoses for wear and if hoses are good and therm is good you may have a restriction somewhere in the system, most likely a clogged Rad.

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77 Tubonated coupe. Let's raise taxes, That'll fix the economy.
[www.cardomain.com]

Changed the fan clutch?

can you see water flowing in the radiator when the cap is off? water drops when you rev it up?

Radiator hot also??

get the old t-stat and cut out the center valve and install it. Run it to see if it still over heats.

You did put the t-stat in the right direction? had to ask.

lower hose doesn't collapse with you rev it?

An old clutch usually speeds up, but one thats rebuilt can loosen up too much.

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TUATZ
[zekfrivolous.com]

when you added new coolant, did you actually purge the system, or did you just add coolant till it was full and then put the radiator cap back on?

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'83 280zx *.* 2.5 Freeflow Exhaust, 4in. Outlet Top Speed Muffler, Type R Blue LED Lighted Shift Knob, Nismo Steering Wheel (wrecked in 06)

'83 280ZX-T 72K Original Miles @ Purchase, NGK BPR7ES Plugs, Greddy Type S BOV, NSX Boost Controller @ 10psi :D Faze Boost Gauge, Air Fuel Ratio Gauge, Cold Air Intake, Full 3" Apexi Turboback Exhaust, 3" Test Pipe, Walbro 255 Fuel Pump, MSD Blaster 2 Ignition Coil

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[www.cardomain.com] << Turbo Z Album

thermostat was bad, took it out today and ran fine , thanks for your info

hey @ least u didnt have to deal with rust in your coolant like i did, since the p.o. was a car collector, he kind of neglected the engine bay and internals, but kept the exterior and interior nice, lol common problem with rich guys!!

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'83 280zx *.* 2.5 Freeflow Exhaust, 4in. Outlet Top Speed Muffler, Type R Blue LED Lighted Shift Knob, Nismo Steering Wheel (wrecked in 06)

'83 280ZX-T 72K Original Miles @ Purchase, NGK BPR7ES Plugs, Greddy Type S BOV, NSX Boost Controller @ 10psi :D Faze Boost Gauge, Air Fuel Ratio Gauge, Cold Air Intake, Full 3" Apexi Turboback Exhaust, 3" Test Pipe, Walbro 255 Fuel Pump, MSD Blaster 2 Ignition Coil

[www.picturetrail.com]
[www.cardomain.com] << Turbo Z Album

Hi there

I have a 75Z and it had a overheating problem too. I checked the head, flushed the radiator, replaced the water pump and the thermostat. After no success, I replaced the radiator and the problem was solved.

Good luck

ps, I got my radiator on ebay and saved a bundle.

^^^ yea my radiator was starting to rust but i got to it before it did any irreversable damage

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'83 280zx *.* 2.5 Freeflow Exhaust, 4in. Outlet Top Speed Muffler, Type R Blue LED Lighted Shift Knob, Nismo Steering Wheel (wrecked in 06)

'83 280ZX-T 72K Original Miles @ Purchase, NGK BPR7ES Plugs, Greddy Type S BOV, NSX Boost Controller @ 10psi :D Faze Boost Gauge, Air Fuel Ratio Gauge, Cold Air Intake, Full 3" Apexi Turboback Exhaust, 3" Test Pipe, Walbro 255 Fuel Pump, MSD Blaster 2 Ignition Coil

[www.picturetrail.com]
[www.cardomain.com] << Turbo Z Album

seems to me that you would only have to purge the system if the radiator cap was lower than the t-stat.i have an '82 so this might not pertain to me.

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'82 280zx T-tops 5-spd.Jade gray,new intake, NGK wires, new coil, complete brake rehaul all around.Diff and tranny changed to royal purple, new muffler, new clutch and other upgrades. also looking for a turbo version!

any time you open the system you should purge the system. anytime you drain coolant or add coolant when the the level is low, air will get trapped into the system, and unless you purge it, it can block everything. and yea if your fluid level isn't low, purging it wouldn't really be necessary, but if you've drained all the coolant and changed all your hoses and what not, you should purge it to get all the air out

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'83 280zx *.* 2.5 Freeflow Exhaust, 4in. Outlet Top Speed Muffler, Type R Blue LED Lighted Shift Knob, Nismo Steering Wheel (wrecked in 06)

'83 280ZX-T 72K Original Miles @ Purchase, NGK BPR7ES Plugs, Greddy Type S BOV, NSX Boost Controller @ 10psi :D Faze Boost Gauge, Air Fuel Ratio Gauge, Cold Air Intake, Full 3" Apexi Turboback Exhaust, 3" Test Pipe, Walbro 255 Fuel Pump, MSD Blaster 2 Ignition Coil

[www.picturetrail.com]
[www.cardomain.com] << Turbo Z Album

So how do you purge a Z ? I was thinking of going up a steep hill....

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TUATZ
[zekfrivolous.com]

1-I-Z has a transmission removal method that would allow a purging of the system as well.

First picture in 1-I-Z's Transmission removal 101 course will allow a purging if you leave the rad on instead of removing it like he did.

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I'm concerned with all the rampant sex and nudity on TV but all I can do is sit at home shaking my fist.

you dont have to take off the radiator or anything, have someone who can pour coolant or distilled water into your radiator while you hold the throttle at higher idle.

basically do this

take your radiator cap off (obviously when the car is cold) and start your car

allow your car to idle until to reach operating temperature, while you're doing this keep checking the coolant flow inside the radiator until you see the level drop, this means that your thermostat has opened. NOW, before you add coolant, get on the throttle plate and give it a little gas, maybe around 1500rpms to 2200rpms just for a point of reference.

once you get here, have a friend start pouring coolant or water into the radiator slowly. it is CRUCIAL that you do not let off the throttle abruptly otherwise the air pockets in the radiator will rise very fast and pop when they hit the surface which means hot coolant splashed everywhere. so keep it high idle, very smooth and steady, you will see bubbling at the top of the fluid, this is good it means the air is escaping, keep slowly increasing your throttle each time the radiator has reached the full level until the coolant level no longer decreases when you raise your idle speed, thats probably the easiest way to purge any system, you just have to be careful to not change idle speeds abruptly, up or down

good luck!!

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'83 280zx *.* 2.5 Freeflow Exhaust, 4in. Outlet Top Speed Muffler, Type R Blue LED Lighted Shift Knob, Nismo Steering Wheel (wrecked in 06)

'83 280ZX-T 72K Original Miles @ Purchase, NGK BPR7ES Plugs, Greddy Type S BOV, NSX Boost Controller @ 10psi :D Faze Boost Gauge, Air Fuel Ratio Gauge, Cold Air Intake, Full 3" Apexi Turboback Exhaust, 3" Test Pipe, Walbro 255 Fuel Pump, MSD Blaster 2 Ignition Coil

[www.picturetrail.com]
[www.cardomain.com] << Turbo Z Album