Ran on the Dyno...
I had my car run on a dynojet today! It is a brand new top of the line, etc...
I had them tune the boost controller as well, which is why they did 13 runs. Most of the other ones don't have any settings. Analog 1 is the boost level.
Here is the sheet:
I'm a little disappointed with the tune. I am 100% sure there are no boost leaks, no codes, etc. It stayed way too rich under throttle. I recently cleaned the filter and the MAF as well.
Tune is the Ash-Spec Class-C tune (91 octane).
Umm...
-Pop Charger
-Specialty Z everything behind the turbos(2.5" pipes)
-GT 2560R center housings in the stock housings
-Fidenza Flywheel
-555cc injectors
-Z1 Intercoolers
I think that is everything....
Anyway, if you look at the A/F, it basically took a dive to 10:1 and stayed there as soon as it hit 4 grand.
yeah i noticed that. when i first got my NA ecu i spoke with ash for a long time about his chips, he said he usually tuned them more rich then everyone else just not THAT rich.
Whats causing the dip in torque at 3800 rpm?
B- It looks just like a flat spot. I think it might be where I wait for the turbos to spool. There is a bit of lag I think with these, which surprises me a bit.
Someone on TT.net suggested that I might have the tune for 555cc injectors, but really have 615cc injectors. I had talked to Coz when I bought them, and he assured me they were normal 555ccs, but I guess he could be mistaken.
Anyone know a good way to tell?
Have them flow tested. It's the only way to know for sure.
Well thats just a pain....
You're running into the common problem of "off the shelf" tunes being unsatisfying. In reality no one can do a fully effective tune by remote mail order. Each engine behaves a little different with the same components installed. In most cases the standard stage tunes simply allow you to run safely. They are not optimized for your engine and will not produce the best power curve. The only way to get peek performance is to have a customized tune. Then, if you have subtle issues with the system, changes can be made to compensate.
It goes back to what I’ve always said… An engine is more then the sum of its parts. It’s a system of components that must work in harmony.
I agree, I just wasn't looking forward to spending the cash on an AEM just yet. I did find out from Woody that there is a color difference between the 615cc and 555cc injectors. Apparently, I have the yellow ones with the new style clip, which is indicative of 615cc injectors.
I know that the 'off the shelf' tunes aren't going to be perfect, but I figured it would at least be acceptable.
On the bright side, this explains why I cannot keep my bumper clean, and why I keep coking my O2 sensors!
Vipec
Well, if I'm going with a stand-alone, I'm going with an AEM, as my mechanic is one of the premiere AEM pros, so it makes it an easy choice. I'll ask him what he thinks about it, but since the AEM is about the same price, and is proven over and over.
For now, I'm going to just acquire the correct 615cc tune, and realize that it will be an acceptable 'street' tune.
Why not get it dyno-tuned?
Mine ash eprom runs rich as well, and once i get my new clutch and a few other things on, i would like to get it dyno tuned.
Thats cheaper than a stand alone.
I had some injectors flow tested by WhitchHunter recently. Great turn-around time. They're up there in your neck of the woods as a matter of fact. FYI.
When you get it 'dyno tuned', you need some sort of device to 'tune' it with. Either Nis-tune or a standalone of some sort.
I knew Ash's stuff runs a little rich, but this was ridiculously rich, because it is the wrong tune.
Im quite sure I'll be happy with a correct 615cc tune.
Could someone school me on what I'm seeing here please? Is the bottom graph the stoichiometric ratio and your pounds of boost? If so, it looks like you're running at or just a touch over 15psi and 370hp at the wheels at 15psi seems about right... doesn't it? What am I missing?
On the bottom graph, the 'lower' lines are Air-Fuel, and the upper lines are boost. I was running about 17 PSI at the time.
The problem was, that because of the incorrect tune, it was sending way too much fuel, causing it to go way too rich. With my upgrades at 17 PSI, I should be most likely 20 hp or so higher, close to 400 even or so I think.
When I had your mods I was 405whp at 17PSI.
I figure with cooler temps (ran @ 90 degree outside temps), and a decent tune, I'd get close to that.
Ah, ok. I was looking only at the numbers on the left. I thought they represented the scale for both indicators. Now I see the 0-25 on the right side.
Keane Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Well, if I'm going with a stand-alone, I'm going
> with an AEM, as my mechanic is one of the premiere
> AEM pros, so it makes it an easy choice. I'll ask
> him what he thinks about it, but since the AEM is
> about the same price, and is proven over and
> over.
>
> For now, I'm going to just acquire the correct
> 615cc tune, and realize that it will be an
> acceptable 'street' tune.
Drop the AEM and go for something like a haltec or something else. The AEM ems is absolute crap. (i know, i have one)
If it is plug and play you want, haltec have adaptors that fit our cars.
I've used Haltech in the past and have had good luck with it. Just be warned that any programmable ECU will have a large tuning learning curve associated with it. The Haltech E11v2 has a ton of features and can support 6-cylinder sequential fuel injection and direct fire coils. You can even go with low impendence injectors for some real fine-tuning.
what all mods do you have again?
www.CharlestonZclub.com
PULP CHICKEN