HEI Ignition Control module swap info (Turbos Only)
If your ignitor is going out it can be quite pricey. There is an alternate swap for cheap though. The stock ignitor with the coil bracket runs around $130-$160. Or you can just get a 4-wire HEI Ignition Control Module from Autozone for $24. Just ask for one off of a 1980 Chevy Chevette. Make sure it comes with some heatsink grease.
Materials
1 x 4-wire HEI module w/heatsink grease
1 x Piece of Aluminumn to mount module to.
2 x bolts/screws to attach module to bracket
at least 4 wires
Spade connectors
Process
Using the Aluminumn make a bracket and drill holes if needed to match the holes in the module. Slather the grease on the back of the module and using screws/bolts attach to bracket. Now ground bracket to the frame of the car so you have a good ground.This is what the bracket with the module should look like (will post pics of my setup soon).
Next follow this diagram to wire in the connections to the module.
After that reconnect battery and turn key for better spark for a cheaper price. Plus the fact that its a stocked item and you don't have to specialy order it.
The paint on my bracket is scraped off and i mounted it to where the afm goes so it gets great airflow across the back of it to keep it cool. And thanks for the heads up on the Petronix
Finding an aluminum extrusion to mount it to, or using an old Amplifier case that you hack up works as a nice heatsink.
The key is to have some mass for the heat to dissipate into through the thermal paste. That lets instant loads slowly dissipate through a larger body instead of tyring to be solely air cooled.
I have one mounted on an aluminum case about 4X3, which is bolted to the rain lip (Megasquirt Relay Box Bottom) and that baby will get HOT to the touch after some time driving around.
Forewarned is forearmed.
Tony, would you recommend the Pertronix Flame Thrower Module as an upgrade over a functioning stock module? or is it a "Dont fix what's not broken" sort of thing?
I did alot of searching on this in the spring & most of the posts stated that those HEI modules are not accurate at higher rev limits or have problems supporting higher rev limits of an L series engine.
The stock HEI's also come on the early 80's Vettes so I see no reason why it would not be accurate.
.d/p?.
JohnH Wrote:
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> I did alot of searching on this in the spring &
> most of the posts stated that those HEI modules
> are not accurate at higher rev limits or have
> problems supporting higher rev limits of an L
> series engine.
HENCE using the PERTRONIX FLAME THROWER aftermarket chip.
The stock HEI module is about done at 4500 in a V8, but the aftermarket chips will run strong with V8 pulse count to well over 7000rpms. How many people with the original HEI system in their Corvette actually run a STOCK chip when they go racing? Stock is for stock.
Using a V8 HEI chip (which is what they are) that is good to 45-4800rpms in it's design application meanst it's good to at least 6-6500 rpms in a 6 cylinder application and 9-9600rpms in a 4 cylinder application. The GM HEI chip is touted in some circles as a MIRACLE INVENTION in the 4 cylinder world as it supports just about ANY setup you can have because of it's limits (ON THE STOCK CHEAP $13 GM CHIP) of 9600rpms! This assumes that spark breakdown is complete by 4500... Really it's not until closer to 4800 to 5000 that misfiring occurs mostly due to insufficient dwell settings in the stock chips. It's the way the chip is programmed more than an inherent unsuitability of the chip design. Aftermarket chips use better solid state components and have different dwell settings for better coil saturation and that's why they work better. The HEI architecture is VERY robust and capable of supporting engines FAR more racous than most anybody here will EVER own or build.
The aftermarket chips are good to easily 9-10,000 rpms in a 6 cylinder application (IF YOU HAVE A GOOD-FAST COIL), and 15,000+ rpms in a 4 cylinder setup.
EVEN THE STOCK NISSAN IGNITOR DOESN'T WORK WELL OVER 6350 RPMS IN TURBO APPICATIONS DUE TO THE LIMITS OF THE GATING / DWELL / SWITCH TIME REQUIRED IN A SINGLE COIL SETUP.
The "operational limit" of a 6 cylinder single coil setup is MORE of a limiting factor than the HEI firing it! There is a REASON Nissan quickly switched to COP in 1989 almost across the board on high-revving engines (what did the GT-R have again???)
If we had V12's in our cars the stock chip would be unsuitable. But for most people a 6000 rpm ignition chip will function without much problem at all.
The spark duration and saturation of the aftermarket Pertronix, however, for the costs involved, makes using a stock HEI chip foolish IMO.
I still have a stock Wells HEI chip in the glove box "just in case" as HEI modules ARE solid state, and 'they work till they don't' and rarely give any warning whatsoever of impending failure.
For $13, it's cheap 'limp home' insurance. just keep it below 7000 if it's a problem. But I doubt it will be. That's a prime example of another 'internet theoretical disparity' that gets way overplayed. Mostly it's a case of people repeating what they "Heard" without evere doing any independent research,or even understanding the limits of the system as it exists from the factory. In short, ignorance perpetuating ignorance. The stock chip worked fine, it's just IMO the spark quality sucked compared to the aftermarket chip that was still under $100.
Hell, you can buy 4 or 5 Pertronix Chips for what a stock E12-80 ignitor costs!
And I don't even WANT to know what a stock ZXT Ignitor costs!!!!
too bad tony i'm gonna tell you any how... :) the stock zxt ignitor costs between $140-$180 depending on where you get it from.
Yeah, last I checked it was quoted to me as something like $159 Retail, less my discount...er, which I won't get into.
Lets just say I could have bought TWO Pertronix Flamethrowers RETAIL for less than I could get the Nissan Ignitor WHOLESALE!
What more reason would one need to make the change.
My Pertronix has fired reliably under 15psi of boost to 6500+ without missing a beat. I bump off my first gear rev-limiter at 7K with nary a bobble or misfire...
I found mounting the module in a old ford ign. module housing works great as a heatsink and protects the module I build alot of them for ford ministocks I will build one for my 81 280z soon
someday, I hope to know as much as you guys.
Ah-ha skittle! I dont see my name in the credits for that nifty setup :P The original setup was based on some old MSnS diagrams. I had no idea that it had been done before as a replacement for the stock ignitor though...
Sorry sean, every one it was Linluv84 who told me about it in the first place. So alot of credit goes to him as well.
No worries Travis, just giving you crap. You're the one that took my half-a$$ schematic and made it real...
Spend the extra money and buy a Pertronix Flame Thrower Module and not the stock GM replacement. It's $34 versus (at the time) $13 for the stock Wells / Autozone Module.
The spark I get out of the Pertonix is better by a FACTOR over the spark form the GM standard output module.
The difference illustrated: from the Pertronix I get a bluish-white spark that will jump close to 3" versus a weak orange-red spark that jumps maybe 3/4" from the AZ supplied stocker.
Make SURE you ground it well, and make SURE the heat sink works to keep the module cool or it WILL fry in short order! Many who do this conversion scrap the paint away from a flat spot on the inner fender and ground/heatsink it there...works well.
Have fun with the conversions, it's a great way to go!
People here simply want feel good answers. Don't confuse them with FACTS, Dammit!
Tony D: "Knowledgeable but Caustic"... rationull
You simply can't call someone a F**ktard here, no matter how truthful it is.
Stupidity is contagious, and looks like it's