Anyone install an SLR Motorsports Performane Chip?
I just bought on of these for my 04 z and I understand the splicing from the module but now I need to splice it to the intake air temp sensor. All of the wires are connected to the MAF (5) total. Do I just pull the out of the back and connect the tip of the wire to the new splice?
damn, you should absolutely not be allowed to solder anything to your wiring harness. you obviously don't have a clue what you're doing or how it works.
I never did put it on. I figured it didn't make much sense. Thanks.
phxZ31 Wrote:
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> damn, you should absolutely not be allowed to
> solder anything to your wiring harness. you
> obviously don't have a clue what you're doing or
> how it works.
If you are so knowlegeable all you had to say is that it won't work.
Not putting anyone down. I just got rid of my 02 Stang with a ton of mods that I have installed so please use some respect for others that post and need questions answered. Its all about HP and we all want to get MORE!!!
doomer331....nice Z, good luck!
you should put it on and test it. if it doesn't work sue them for fraud.
nice z.
Good looking Z indeed!
I have Unichip's piggyback on my car. You'll need to add a zero onto the $68.00 cost of the SLR. It's plug'n'play, so you won't have to splice into your harness, and it actually works, which is sort of a bonus.
Totally agree Dommer (Jeffrey?) about it being about HP gains, but you know what they say; speed costs money.
dommer,
not trying to be a dick, but when you ask a question like that (or if you let anybody know that you actually bought one of these silly things) it becomes painfully clear that you shouldn't be messing with engine wiring and splicing in new connections anywhere. Somebody has to be the voice of reason around, so let me tell you a few things:
1) that chip is a scam. First of all, it was probably actually designed for a Honda 4-cylinder engine, and they don't even work on those vehicles either. You know how they list like 50 different vehicles they have chips for? Yeah, they're all the same damn chip, they just throw a sticker on it before it goes in the box.
2) there is NO way to get a considerable boost in HP on the z33 platform unless you spend a ton of money on a custom engine and tune. It is already tuned to the maximum from the factory, so unless you do radical modifications, you are limited to whatever you can do to allow it to breathe easier and improve efficiency. Whatever HP boosts come with that will be small, so don't expect much unless you have deep pockets and you don't use this car on a daily basis.
3) It IS all about the HP and having fun in your car. Now having already mentioned how difficult it is to get decent HP/$, its important to do the correct mods in a logical order.
4) I'm not trying to put you down, I just don't want you to do stupid shit to your car and mess it all up. Download the FSM in PDF format. Its on the net, its not too hard to find, and it will be your best friend if you're ever working on your own Z.
5) Nice looking Z.
phxZ31 Wrote:
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> damn, you should absolutely not be allowed to
> solder anything to your wiring harness. you
> obviously don't have a clue what you're doing or
> how it works.
phxz31, It's clear to me you're not trying to put him down. I don't know what his problem is. :o
I just bought on of these for my 04 z and I understand the splicing from the module but now I need to splice it to the intake air temp sensor. All of the wires are connected to the MAF (5) total. Do I just pull the out of the back and connect the tip of the wire to the new splice?
Ok, with all due respect to you, this chip will not work. I'm not even going to approach this from the "this is a scam" point of view, but instead, let me explain the issues:
(1) The MAF measures how much air (or O2) is flowing into the intake. You can alter this amount to trick the ECU into thinking you have a different amount, but all you will do is screw up the air-fuel ratio and run rich (bad) or lean (bad). Getting a small amount of horsepower and leaning out your engine is a very poor idea. The stock fuel map is nearly optimal for power output, with a margin of exception that can be tuned up with a proper tuning setup (+5-10 hp).
(2) The 350z engine is a 3.5L V6. An efficient NON-TURBO engine will obtain around 75 hp / L of displacement, because the proper air-fuel ratio for that displacement sits just above that point. A super-efficient implementation using very high RPMs to push more air can hit 100 hp / L, at best (such as the S2000). Nissan has managed to squeeze nearly 86 hp / L from the engine in stock form, which is an incredible feat for a low-RPM engine. You are hard pressed to improve on this amazing stock configuration. Screwing with the stock engine CANNOT produce any significant gains without a turbocharger because you are limited by displacement and fuel ratio. To go higher, you need more oxygen, which only comes from a forced induction setup.
(3) Aha, you say, then we'll do what the S2000 does and get 100 hp/L! Why not? Because it is very difficult to raise RPM peak on an engine, and you can't do it without rebuilding the engine to handle a few thousand more RPM at a huge cost. This is a mechanical, not electronic, improvement.
So, you are left with only a few choices for power improvements on the stock car. They are:
(1) Remapped ECU for tiny horsepower gains.
(2) Conical intake to help suck in more air.
(3) High-flow exhaust to increase air flow.
and now.. forced induction..
(4) Supercharger. Big power at low RPM, but lower peak horsepower.
(5) Turbocharger(s). Lowers power at low RPM, but huge gains at peak boost.
(6) Nitrous Oxide. Temporary power gains that slowly eat your engine, leading to eventual loss of compression and inevitable rebuild. Not recommended.
and now strokers and rebuilds..
(6) Stroker kit to increase arm throw and overall displacement. Costly, but reliable.
(7) Tigher valve springs, forged pistons and crank. Increase peak RPM and stress tolerance. Costly.
etc.
In other words, you have to pay in cash to get horsepower. There is no quick fix UNLESS you own a car that is already designed for a turbo from the ground up.
phxZ31
You said,
"damn, you should absolutely not be allowed to solder anything to your wiring harness. you obviously don't have a clue what you're doing or how it works."
A little hard don't you think? I've been coming here for the better part of about seven years or so. I figure that just about every question that can be asked about any Z that has ever been produced has been asked. For that matter we don't need the forums anymore, just look in the "Search" file.
So here is my question to you. I got this picture from your web site where you are doing a remarkable restoration on a Z31. Studied your pictures and was quite impressed with your abilities. No question about it, you got some juice to you when it comes to working on cars. May I make a suggestion to you? I don't mean to imply that you obviously don't know what you are doing or how things work, but you mounted your air filter BEHIND THE RADIATOR!. I'm no expert engine builder (but I built a few in my time) but preheating the air to a balmy 190 degrees BEFORE IT GOES INTO YOUR INTAKE is pretty much a no no. Look up pre-ignition or better yet, look up the posts on COLD AIR INTAKES and the advantages of them. Just trying to keep you honest brother!
My best to all,
John
Not having a clue how it works isn't a put down... everybody has to start somewhere.
I have a philosophy on modding a vehicle, and it goes something like this:
1) Do you completely understand the basic principles of the part you are wishing to modify?
2) Do you completely understand how the part in YOUR CAR works, as it may be different from vehicle to vehicle and just because you've modded said part in a Geo Metro doesn't mean its the same in a 350Z.
3) Do you know how your aftermarket or modified part works that improves over the stock equipment?
4) Do you have the knowledge to install this part yourself?
After you can answer "yes" to all of those questions, THEN you're ready to buy your part. If you buy your part before you can answer all those with a yes, then you're jumping the gun and increasing the potential for issues during or after install.
JML,
You're right about the filter being in a poor location in that picture. On the original setup, there was a plastic shroud that sat on top the radiator and separated the air intake from the hot radiator air. I have designed a new shroud to suit my new setup, but so far its just a cardboard template. I intend to take it to a fiberglassing shop in the next month or so to have a fiberglass version made that will permanently isolate the intake charge from the hot engine bay air.
Perhaps my words to the OP were a little harsh, but that was the intention. I'm trying to make people think, and if you're always nice to people it doesn't always seem to sink in the same way. I try not to always be an ass, just when I feel people need to "see the big picture" I guess.
phxZ31.
Like I said, you got some serious juice to you when it comes to working on cars. I just like the experts so much better when they're being nice, especially to those who are up and coming. Can't wait to see your new set up! Keep us updated. You done good!
John
tough love. that'll learn em.
^^
"That will teach you not to drink my beer you little prick!"
A 50 HP gain from a $70.00 mod chip ? come on ! I'm surprised that anyone could believe such claims. They should have tagged that ad with BUYER BEWARE . How do they get away with making such claims in their advertising ?
they get away with it by saying if you're not satisfied they'll give your money back and stressing that the hp gains are merely estimates.
Those fake chips create more hp for the person you write your check to,however, about a year or so ago, I purchased a Nismo Performance Chip on ebay(they are real hard to find now). Interestingly, it was shipped from the same city in China where they manufacture the 350z. That made me feel more comfortable about installing it into my trip computer. The power is amazing.
Also, in addition to the suggestions on adding hp to the 350z. I would add the Unorthadox OEM size crank pulley to the list for n/a z's. I have one in my Z and it does give it a little more peep.
Take off that grille and youll be set, thing looks like it belongs on a wangsta Chevy s10.
Zyellow Wrote:
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>> Interestingly, it was shipped from the same city
> in China where they manufacture the 350z.
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When did Nissan move production of the Z from Japan to China? I guess that I took a nap and missed that one.
I agree, the last place (or next to last) is China. Japan keeps their high end electronics and product manufacture in Japan as well as rice. I know , I go their often and am in the electronics manufacturing business so I see their factories. I also see the factories in China, some are quite impressive but the culture of copy is everywhere. Watches, machinery, software, technology, etc. Japanese managers know this and what they send to China they know will be copied. I highly doubt that ECU's are being made anywhere but Japan for the 350Z which is made on Japanese soil.
I was joking about the Nismo Chip and China.
Maybe I should get into the performace chip e-bay business, it's on the interent so it has to be true, right? There is one born every minute.
Not joking about the aftermarket crank pulley.
The aluminum underdrive pulley is one of the most noticeable mods I've put on my Z to date.
As far as underdrive pulley's, IMO....buy only a well known brand.
Some brands just don't do the job....some are not balanced correctly too!
the most noticeable mod on my z are my wheels. people see them immediately.
I purchased the OEM size(a new product,at the time I purchased), from Unorthadox Racing. I am very happy with the results.
The performance gains come from weight reduction. The old pulley is approx 8 lbs and the new one is approx 1.5 lb.
I knew this chip question would start a buzz. Also, I knew that you would respond because you are an asset to the Z family and very knowlegeable/honest
with your responses. You do take the time to read these forums and I give respect for that too.
I just came out of the Mustang scene and to add any HP at any price no matter what for bragging rights is BS. Heck I figured it to cost about $25.00/HP.
The Z is a much more refined, handling sports car with many extras up front.
I really like everything about the Z. I bought this 04 Z with only 20,000 miles on her last week. Also, I got the 100,000 mi wrap around Nissan warranty for all of the unexpected short comings that may arise. The clicking noises in the rear etc. Yes, this warranty comes with rental car re-imbursement too.lol.
What are my first real mods?
JWT Popcharger or plenum spacer?
Thanks for reading through all of this,
Dommer
I would do the POP charger first. You want a free-flowing intake. The next step is probably to open up the exhaust, but this will cost you some low-end torque.
Almost every mechanical mod that really increases peak HP causes the low end torque to suffer a bit... well, except FI that is.
Things like the lightweight pulley or flywheels don't actually increase torque or HP, they just allow the engine to get more of its power to the wheels.
Is this what you got?
SLR Performance Chip
If so..... do yourself a favor, remove it... and send it back for a refund. Its a scam.
06 Lemanz Sunset Track Z
Zaino Convert