Car running strange with code 55 - Nissan : Datsun ZCar forum :Nissan Z Forum: 240Z to 370Z
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#1 (permalink) Old 06-14-2013, 01:30 AM
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Car running strange with code 55

So I'v had the car for about a month now and for about the last week it hasn't seemed to accelerate like it used to and is also idling at around 1200rpm during warm up and 600rpm after it warms up. I assumed this was due to the spark plugs being bad (looked like they were older than the car) So I replaced those today not proud to say I used champion platinum performance instead of ngk but I had no choice if I was going to change them today and I was only planning on using them until next month when I get 2 weeks off and was going to pull the plenum and clean up the engine bay. So new plugs all gapped to .034 got everything put back together now it doesn't start as easy and once it does it runs the same as before. I put the computer in diagnostics mode and it gives me a code 55. I think I hear a miss but am not completely sure. The car is my daily driver but its about a 2 mile round trip and this makes it hard for me to embark on any large projects without planning it out. I don't really know what to do at this point and need someone to point me in the right direction. Also I hope this has nothing to do with my problem now but about a month ago the car overheated on me when the circuit to the radiator fan shorted out and afterwards the engine had a faint tap that started to get worse but was resolved or so i hope with new synthetic oil and a can of engine restorer. Also could a boost leak cause this I pretty sure I have one as the boost controller has no effect on how hard it will boost. The car also has an exhaust leak I will be attempting to fix very soon and I have no way of knowing how many miles are on the engine as it is a swap but the cluster reads 95k
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#2 (permalink) Old 06-14-2013, 01:43 AM
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Google boost leak tester. You can build one from supplies at lowes or home depot. Searchhow to OHM your injectors on here its a good idea. If you don't have a timing light get a good one and check your timing. And get NGK plugs back into your engine. Then check back in with results of all of that.


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#3 (permalink) Old 06-16-2013, 01:02 AM
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Not a bad idea to also run a compression test.

Hopefully this car gets good runs other than the 2 mile daily workout? At least 1x per week I'd take it on a nice 45min or so highway drive. Warms things up properly, gets moisture out of the exhaust, cleans up the spark plugs, etc...

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#4 (permalink) Old 06-17-2013, 08:03 PM
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I do take the car out for a nice cruise and get a little boost through her veins but not so much as of lately but I did just completely remove the hood and go to town with tests.........It broke my heart. Compression test all readings were all 90 except one at 95 and one at 100psi don't remember the exact cylinder numbers and left the paper that I had it wrote down on at the shop. Fuel injectors all came back as .012 except the number 6 cylinder which was .027. Did not bother with the boost leak test due to the oil in the intake lines. I wanted to learn all the in's and out's of the car but not like this. When I removed the spark plugs to do compression test I found that they were already black on the ends I had just put them in the night before and there was maybe 15-20 miles on them. Going to do the compression test with a different gauge later on as I think there was something wrong with the one I had (had to hold the button on the side to get it to hold the reading which is just a pin that nearly went through my finger when it started building pressure) if the compression tests were right with all the numbers being that close am I looking at head gaskets. There is no water in the oil nor does there appear to be any oil in the water. When idling the car holds around 20psi oil pressure and gets up to 60 when driving easy but if I accelerate hard the oil pressure does not build up could I be losing pressure in the turbos? I disconnected the manual boost controller because it was like a spider's web connected to what seems like everything under the hood. Hooked wastegate actuators up to the plenum and recycling valves up to the lines that feed the throttle bodies and fuel damper and regulator lines to the plenum as well. Keep in mind that through all of this the car still runs good, much to good for the readings of the compression test. I have 2 and a half weeks off coming up next month and a very limited budget going to try to fix everything that I can I have access to whatever tools I will need to accomplish this and am using time until then to research everything but feedback is more helpful than anything. Also when I removed the plenum I found half yes half of an old gasket that was reinforced with gasket maker. All in all I discovered that whoever did the swap should be ashamed and shot there was so many things not fastened down that should have been like the radiator it would take me all night to make a list of them I even found some bolts in their proper place except the bracket they were supposed to be securing hanging freely inches from it. I hate cleaning up other people's stupidity.
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#5 (permalink) Old 06-19-2013, 09:42 AM
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Make sure you did the compression check correctly motor hot good gauge all that stuff.

If compression is that off across the board you might be semi lucky and the tbelt could just be off a couple teeth.


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#6 (permalink) Old 06-19-2013, 07:06 PM
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Motor NOT hot, supposed to be warmed (so oil is flowing well). If done when coolish (and engine not warmed) during summer weather, just add 5 psi to the readings as a correction, so not a big deal.

Yep - try a different guage, had that issue once and was very relieved to find it was the guage.

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#7 (permalink) Old 06-19-2013, 08:01 PM
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Just a for what its worth. The reason the motor is supposed to ne at operating temp is that everything mainly the piston rings are fully expanded. When cold the rings contract and thus hold less compression.


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#8 (permalink) Old 06-22-2013, 02:49 AM
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Where do i hook up an induction timing light all over the web it says hook it to the spark plug wire the new user faqs send me straight to the zcar home page
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#9 (permalink) Old 06-22-2013, 10:17 AM
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The wire that runs to the #1 coil pack.

Also at this point if you have the compression issues it seems you have changing the timing will have no affect on that. Checking and changing the timing is to adjust when the plugs fire. It will not correct the tbelt being a couple teeth off if that is your issue.

Leak down test should be your next venture.


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#10 (permalink) Old 06-22-2013, 12:05 PM
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I am also getting a different compression gauge today when you say that leak down should be my next venture do you mean on the turbos or the block becuase im pretty sure that the turbos will fail that they are blowing oil into the intake lines so they are getting rebuilt next month right now im trying to figure out if i need to do the whole motor while I have it out. Also forgot to note that after removing the spider web of vacuum lines that went to the boost controller and basically redoing all of the vacuum lines under the car it is running much better I reinstalled the boost controller mounted it under the hood this time and it is working perfect from the way the car runs now my guess would be that it just needs the turbos rebuilt but the results of the last compression test still make me nervous and when looking at the front of the motor w/o timing belt cover it looks as if all the cams are just slightly off from eachother but im going to check it to the oil pump assembly as well.

Last edited by basstard; 06-22-2013 at 12:09 PM.
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