S130 In-Tank Fuel Pump Conversion - Nissan : Datsun ZCar forum :Nissan Z Forum: 240Z to 370Z
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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 10-27-2014, 07:59 AM Thread Starter
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S130 In-Tank Fuel Pump Conversion

Ok so I need to preface this with YOU are responsible for screwing up your own car. I am a trained technician and if you dont feel confidante doing this dont do it.
With that out of the way I decided to do this for a few key reasons. 1 there are a wide variety to pumps available for in tank applications. 2 Intank pump are a lot softer of a sound, its not silent but its better. 3 This eliminates alot of junctions where leaks can occur.

The first thing I did was just to remove the old pump and sender and clean things up
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the origonal pump...well the one that was in there before....definetly aint origonal
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This is the sender as it came out

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thats the new walbro 255

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This is important!! look at the baffling in the tank you will need to orient the pickup filter to fit in them!!

After you have everything apart you need to remove the old pickup. I just used a hacksaw and cut it off. Now once that is off there is a vent tube beside it that needs to be ground off... that sucked since I didnt have a grinder I used the hacksaw and a file to take it down so just the one tube is left

[IMG]

Now once I had that done I test fitted the pump in and it fit great right where I wanted it to be. Now this doesnt neeeeeed to be fixed in place however I do think its a good idea if you want to relocate the pump to a different area in the tank just use stiffer hose to hold it down.
[IMG]
[IMG]

The next thing I tackled was the wiring! THIS PART WAS A MAJOR PAIN... but thats my fault I decided to reuse the slock harness with new ends... so I drilled a new hole for the wires that I sealed with rvt so they dont rub (get a grommet they save time) Really I just used new crimp on ends because they wont move much and will more than hold.
[IMG]
[IMG]
[IMG]
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(see gromments will look better too)
Ok so once I got there I went back under the Z and Iran a new line to the metal one that was preexisting. So once the RTV dried I put the new sender in to test run the pump and luckily IT RAN! so from there I just reassembled everything and went for a drive! Now the very first thing I noticed was I can hear the pump on the road, its great!
Now what did I learn here? 1. Make sure the pipes are clean!!!!! I sent some junk down the line and threw junk into the filter (oh well). 2 Be prepared I was running around looking for all my stuff (most of my tools are in my box that isnt at the house). 3 while you have the lines depressurized hook up a pressure gauge and make sure your pressure and volume is running good! you can find bad lines and other things just with the gauges!


If you have any comment concerns LMK!! I love feedback

Last edited by Tony D; 10-28-2014 at 12:10 AM. Reason: Title for Specific Search Terms
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 10-28-2014, 12:11 AM
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They make terminal connectors for your penetration.

Take a look at JeffP's Z32T In-Tank Fuel Pump Conversion at his webpage on Angelfire:

Extreme280ZXT

As you say, it's a wonder why more don't do it with the relative ease of the swap on the S130.

Nice Writeup. I'm going to sticky it, this should add some options for people with fuel pump problems.

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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 10-28-2014, 01:48 AM
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RTV Silicones are NOT recommended for gasoline contact. The possibility exists down the road that gas may come out around the RTV "patch". You may want to search the 'Net for other manufacturers who make sealant in a tube that is resistant or try ol' TonyD's penetration.

zippityzda
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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 10-28-2014, 08:37 AM Thread Starter
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RTV Silicones are NOT recommended for gasoline contact. The possibility exists down the road that gas may come out around the RTV "patch". You may want to search the 'Net for other manufacturers who make sealant in a tube that is resistant or try ol' TonyD's penetration.
Ya I have a grommet for it now just needed something quick so I could get it back on the road
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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 10-29-2014, 01:41 AM
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Excellent, thank you for sharing. I appreciate the quality pictures that accompany your post! Let's have somemore of that, please. Well done, sir +1



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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 11-16-2014, 02:12 AM
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Yes I did the twin turbo in-tank install. I don't know of anyone else who has done this mod. A few points:
1) NEVER go through a bulkhead, or fuel tank sender unit, simply by drilling a hole and stabbing wires through it. REMEMBER, it ONLY takes one short to ground to end the life of your car in a big ball of fire, and you, well if they can find the parts left to bury good enough.
2) NEVER use a rubber grommet to insulate the wires through the sender cover. Well unless you like the intoxicating smell of fuel until you pass out, then again the end of the life of your car, as for you, you deserve what happens to you. They make Teflon insulated through the bulkhead washers. Utilize those parts to run the fuel pump wires.
3) Although the OEM's crimp the wire connectors for the fuel pump power wires, I recommend soldering the wire to the connector. Also, you will note the OEM's utilize a spring loaded connector with a tab that locks the connector to the fuel pump spade lug connector. You cant pull that terminal off of the spade lug until you depress the release tab. Vibration does happen in the fuel pump and a standard spade lug terminal again is taking the chance to shorten the life of your car and end up in a big ball of flame, as for you, again if they find parts of you for burial, then your family has something to mourn at your funeral.
4) you need to seal the holes through the sender cover. The ZX pressurizes the fuel tank. The pressure aids to push the fuel up the pump inlet, it also ensures there is not a negative pressure occurrence in the fuel tank. That system NEEDS to stay intact.
5) plastic bag ties are a very poor method to secure the pump in place. A good tie wrap, or better, a stainless steel hose clamp from home depot, do not over tighten the pump and compress the housing. The tie wrap will get hard and possibly break, but either one is better then the tie from your hefty bag box.
I really don't want to sound mean, but you ar4e playing in an area of your car that has ZERO percent failure possibilities, unless you have a death wish, then by all means proceed as you have.

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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-18-2015, 12:13 AM
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some update pictures

I found some of the pictures of my sender unit into the tank. I used stainless steel line, and fittings to -8 AN fittings. this was my last install with a magnafuel external fuel pump. The twin turbo pump worked good enough, but at the time I was running 4 BAR fuel pressure and with boost added the fuel pressure ended up being about 83-85psi under boost. The pump, although was the only pump that would provide the required amount of fuel and at the correct pressure, was taxed to much and would last about a year. So I changed out the injectors, lowered the fuel pressure and went with the external fuel pump.
The two pictures are of the last setup. I did end up having to remove the stock filter all together, as it provided to much restriction on the inlet of the pump. I do have the magnafuel filter they use for their unit, and it has been fine ever since. The other thing that did not work out well wee the rubber/aluminum bulk head washers. I ended up using a copper washer that fit the stainless steel fitting and tightened the crap out of it to mash the copper washer between the sender and fitting. No fuel smell, no leaks with a full tank. I did still use a small amount of black RTV to ensure and small air leaks would be sealed. Remember, the evap system and carbon canister are required to pressurize the fuel tank. The fuel pump is mounted lower then the bottom of the tank, but the fuel has to travel up the sender line to the top of the tank, and then to the fuel pump. Positive pressure in the tank significantly aids in the fuel being pushed up the sender to the top of the tank, and that can become difficult when the tank is almost empty.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg sender.jpg (72.2 KB, 81 views)
File Type: jpg sender2.jpg (69.8 KB, 79 views)
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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-20-2015, 05:05 AM
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Man them some purty benz in that 0.500"x0.035" tubin'!
Whar y'all get a bendar t' make such purty benz Mr. Priddy?


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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-22-2016, 01:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Tony D View Post
Man them some purty benz in that 0.500"x0.035" tubin'!
Whar y'all get a bendar t' make such purty benz Mr. Priddy?

I went thru 2 or 3 external pumps of the AC variety. They worked fine but inside the contact spring was made of copper and would disintegrate and then the pump would quit. I finally replaced it with a rotary type external pump and never had a problem after that. Anybody here tried that new pickup/filter made by Holley? Its some sort of new fiber material that lays on the bottom of the tank and actually draws the fuel in like a sponge. it supposedly filters and aids against sloshing and some other benefits. I think it does require an in tank pump tho. I am going to look at that some more after I clean and coat my tank.
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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-01-2016, 07:30 PM
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Found my pictures

So this has been bugging me ever since I read the install of the in-tank fuel pump. Needless to say in my earlier posts I was not impressed with the install so I posted some information on the matter.
I have found my pictures so now I will do my write up on the matter:


The first issues to address is how do you get the power wires through the tank sender in an acceptable fashion. The use of Teflon through hole insulators is the answer. That way the machine screw is totally insulated from the sender plate and you can connect up the pump wires easily. The wires are ALL soldered to the terminals and heat shrink insulated. I did two layers thick of the heat shrink. I then built a plate to connect the plastic tank trap to a bracket, that was then screwed to the top of the tank, again with Teflon insulators, but this application was to seal the tank from leaks. The screw hardware used is to be stainless steel. I noted with previous designs the galvanized and steel parts rusted, or corroded to some extent.


Yes it took me Three times to get the install correct, so the car would not run out of fuel under heavy acceleration, or hard turns.


So the bracket is installed, now the pump pickup was installed with flexible hose, not fuel line, as it has a tendency to deteriorate faster then I like when the outside of the hose is exposed to fuel all the time, so I choose plastic with the twine mesh impregnated hose, and it to after a time got hard as well but stayed intact. I realize there is hose that will last, but at the time I could not find what I was looking for. The outlet of the pump, since it was so close to the top of the sender I did in steel braided Teflon hose with a stainless steel -6 connector, and through the tank sender a -6 bulk head connector.
The power wires were soldered to the pump terminals, and the pump securing bracket was also utilized for a power terminal block, it was chromed terminals, so that was good enough. I connected the sender side to the power block after I connected the pump terminals up after I installed the pump. I used stainless steel hose clamps, totally stainless steel clamps, not just the clamp strap, but the worm gear assembly was stainless steel also, NO RUSTING!
The last thing to do was connect the power wires, and the pump fuel line and place the fuel sender back in the tank.
The floats were stock, not screwed with, or in conflict with any of the fuel pump parts, so making adjustments to the floats was now very easy to get the fuel gauge perfect. It always bothered me how the 1/4 tank gauge was always off a little.


The last build worked perfectly in the car, so this is the way I recommend doing the install, the method that I was comfortable with.



I have since gone back to the external fuel pump a magnaflow pump MP-4303 unit, nice pump, expensive, but delivers all the fuel I need. I had problems with the -6 setup getting the flow numbers my engine needed so I had to go to -8 size fittings I ran my own custom 1/2 316L stainless steel lines, what a beotch that was! looks nice though.


Here are the pics to check out.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Fuel_Sender.jpg (35.5 KB, 32 views)
File Type: jpg Fuel_pump.jpg (73.5 KB, 32 views)
File Type: jpg Tank_trap.jpg (52.9 KB, 30 views)
File Type: jpg Fuel_power.jpg (109.4 KB, 29 views)
File Type: jpg Fuel_power1.jpg (37.3 KB, 30 views)

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Last edited by jeffp; 05-01-2016 at 07:48 PM.
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