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Early 260z external to internal voltage regulator help.!

2K views 6 replies 5 participants last post by  Tony D 
#1 ·
I'm currently trying to convert my early 260z to a gm alternator I have all the mounts and plug. I'm just confused about external regulator part. I found a bunch of write ups for 280 and 240 but no early 260z the wires are different colors. I have a yellow, white, black, black w/ white strip, black w/yellow strip, and a white w/ black strip. Any ideas on which one I need to connect together thanks
 
#2 ·
Probably best to just focus on what the GM alternator needs electrically and go from there. S, L, power, ground.

You might also compare wiring diagrams and just convert the wire colors. Even if you had the same wire colors it would be good to confirm that they're used for the same purpose.
 
#3 ·
Beware. One of the stock fuel pump relays is wired between the alternator and the regulator. If you don't account for this, you could have that relay energized all of the time, draining your battery, or it could keep the electric fuel pump running even after an accident.

Of course, this is a moot point if you have already removed the electric fuel pump.
 
#5 ·
Or it doesn't shut off when the key is off...

There is a post within the last 6 months addressing this specifically with color photos and everything.
 
#6 ·
Thanks guys..
So I figured it out myself I think.. Well it started and seemed to be charging also turned off.. Guess the diodes working.. Weirdest thing my electric fuel pump never worked since I got it so I had it hot wired but never cut the original wire out then after the swap the fuel pump works on it's own now.. So how should I go about fixing the fuel pump relay always being on issue??
 
#7 ·
Put a Ford Inertia Switch in the circuit. I used one from a Tempo-Topaz, they can be harvested with close to 3 feet of heavy wire lead from the switch to make wiring easier. I mounted mine on the passengers side of the tunnel near where the stock 280Z fuel pump leads pass through the floor. Makes for a sanitary connection in the later vehicles. And easy to reset if bumped hard enough.

Alternate placement is on the passenger's footwell firewall, similar in position to where the Ford Rangers have them. Either place is relatively safe from nuisance impacts, and relatively easy to reach for a reset after a fender bender to get moving again.

We would 'bumper car' the Tempo and Topaz Rentals in the 90's to strand other Service Engineers in the Hertz Parking Garage as we let out for the jobsite. You learned where to reset those switches if you worked with us. Trick was to hit the rear bumper hard enough to trigger THEIR switch, but not yours, or set off your airbag...which could be quite embarrassing.

The Tempo/Topaz is in the trunk, on the left side, and the wires go up along the trunk in the wiring harness. I prefer salvage out of them opposed to the Rangers as the wire provided is considerable and easily obtained in seconds. If you take a few minutes with a razor knife, you can strip out enough from a Tempo/Topaz to wire the S30 from fusebox to Fuel Pump with 14 gauge wire!

These are the EXACT SAME SWITCHES as sold by Pegasus Racing in Milwaukee for close to $40! Impact Switch and Roll-Over Disconnect.

I have seen FAR too many accidents where the back wheels either went in the air, or the impact was enough to throw the car into Neutral and the accelerator was pinned by distortion of the firewall to leave the engine racing and fuel system pumping like crazy to trust the "Oil Pressure/Alternator Interconnect" Philosophy of Nissan -- I add the Ford Switch into that circuit as a TRUE failsafe. Better to stop the engine and have no fuel pressure in the rail through impact disconnect than to wait for engine stall from something other IMO...
 
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