So now that the water leaks are fixed its time to start dealing with the spare well and floorboard. Although I drive the vic more now (kids), I still love to drive and work on my zx whenever I have spare time. I recently moved and my new garage has been filled to the brim with boxes. Numero uno priorioto was to clean it out enough to pull the z in for the winter.
Now that I have that under wraps I was able to finish the project I started prior to moving. I don't see how some of you get the time to do anything. With two kids and two pets I feel as if my poor z has to make an appt. for attention.I sorta piecemeal this stuff in advance, and plan ahead my method of attack so that any one project doesn't go unattended for long periods. I want her available for an afternoon drive. Set goals with your car and order materials ahead of time so that your ready to rock. If it helps write out each step, then visualize it in your head.
Many of you know I love pics and this ones no different. As far as the floorboard goes the spare well (which seems to be one of many achilles heel rustwise on a zx ) was the worst on mine so thats where I started.
By the time I noticed this the damage had already been done. I removed the drain plug to buy a little time and hopefully contain the cancer to the affected panel until it could be addressed. Notice the bondo squeezing through repair holes in the quarter panel by the PO. So far it hasn't been an issue. I've owned the car since about mid 2005.
This venture started several months back at U-pull-it on Watkins. I still hadn't decided how I wanted to go about repairing my well. I considered fiberglas or a patch, but while wandering around the JY I noticed the well on this z wasn't rusted through yet (although full of water) and suddenly my mission was clear. I fumbled around in the stagnant water and pulled out the plug.
I returned the next day to claim my prize with an 18V lithium ion sawzall and an extra battery. Yes I thanked the fallen zx for her sacrifice so that another could live on. Say hello to the crusher for me.
With no access to a welder I decided to install this well with panel bond. I used it many times in my bodyshop days with good results. Opinions vary on application and technique. Having worked with it before I had no regrets about using it on the well. Read-up on it and draw your own conclusions. Eastwood sells this kit for around $20. It includes a 50ml cartridge of PB, two mixing tips, and a caulking gun adapter so the average joe who doesn't have a high dollar applicator gun can use it. But you better use a heavy-duty caulk gun. More on that later.
First order of business was to prepare the replacement well. Give it a good look and identify all the spot welds, so that the excess metal can be trimmed away, leaving only the well in all its non rusted-through glory. I knew I would be moving soon and might not have access to compressed air. My plan was to have the well ready and the old one cut out before the move, just as I get my garage the way I want. Oh well, another one of life's curve balls. Deal with it.
For this task I choose a cut-off tool. You can buy those fancy little spot weld drill bits but they're expensive and don't last forever.
The thin wheels work great for this
You can buy these dirt cheap at Harbor Freight or ebay.
Start by shaving the first layer of metal off each spot weld
You can clearly see the ring where the first layer was shaved.
This technique works well and leaves a nice base metal to bond or weld to.
Then the excess can be removed easily with the air chisel. Take your time here, you can gouge the base metal if you're not careful.
One issue I did run into was this tab is actually sandwiched between the two sections of the rear body panel. No worries. If you look close you can see a line I drew with a sharpie, indicating the tab will be removed and an extra inch of metal will be left on the old well to form an area to bond to.
I took a heat gun and putty knife to the heavy undercoating on the bottom. It would take forever to try and grind through that stuff not to mention clog the disc.
Preparing the well for the KBS 3step.
Aquaklean. Rustblast, and Rustseal.