Bringing 1972 240Z Back to Life - Nissan : Datsun ZCar forum :Nissan Z Forum: 240Z to 370Z
User Tag List

Closed Thread
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
#1 (permalink) Old 04-09-2011, 08:30 PM
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: La Crescenta, CA
Posts: 8
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
(Thread Starter)
Bringing 1972 240Z Back to Life

Hi All! Newbie here. My friend and I are working on his newly acquired original 1972 240Z. Original L24 engine, round top carbs, and original...well, most everything. This is basically a driveway job, not a real restoration or anything, so we're doing what we can. Pictures will go up later, but they aren't that great. Let me preface all this by saying that neither of us are too familiar with Z's, but we're doing our best. I work on older Toyota's mainly. And yes, we already have the FSM! We don't know what's original and what's not, so please bear with us. In fact, we're looking (long-term) at doing an all original restoration. But first, let's get this thing driving!

Here's a little background: His grandfather bought the car new in 1972 and has had it since. Around 2001 he stopped driving it and just left it out in the driveway, in the sun all day, all the fluids in it, etc. Needless to say, it's in rough shape. The good news is, it (sorta) runs! Fresh gas, oil, oil filter and a battery and it came to life! (Rather sickly might I add) It should be noted though, that there is A LOT of stuff (mainly hoses and tubing) missing, especially from the air system, so we don't really know what's what.

So, our issues at this point:

1.)It was leaking coolant, but we're in the process of replacing all the lines, the thermostat housing, and flushing the system completely. Aside from lines, all seems to be working mildly okay. There is, though, what looks like a metal pipe between the intake manifolds (?) that's just basically dripping. Any idea what that is or if there's a fix?

2.)There was no belt on the air pump so we put one on and tightened it well, but it made the engine hard to start and after only 10 seconds of cranking, the air pump was ridiculously hot. I'm assuming that means the pump is bad? If not, advice? Is it necessary?

3.)What else do we need to get this Z running smoothly? We're trying to focus on the engine only at this point, with driveability coming later. It needs a lot of choke and cranking to start, and needs choke for a minute or two to idle, but past that the idle is actually okay. Stumbles a bit when I press the gas, and at this point we're afraid to rev it too hard. We've had it up to about 3,000 RPM, but that's when the coolant initially started leaking. After the coolant is done, what else should we look at? Fuel delivery seems to be okay. No leaks, which is good. Hard lines are holding up. Maybe adjusting carbs?

I really appreciate all the help you all might be able to give, and we'll owe you a huge debt once we bring one of the survivors back to life, hopefully in original condition. Remember, pics will come soon! But Thanks in advance everyone, this is going to be one heck of a project!

Bringing back a survivor in Los Angeles!
CaptHamster is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
#2 (permalink) Old 04-09-2011, 09:00 PM
Super Moderator
 
heroe's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Georgia
Posts: 5,106
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Re: Bringing 1972 240Z Back to Life

the metal pipe between carbs is a water line to warm up carbs faster, im guessing, i dont even use it here. Sounds like the carbs need to be tuned. Chuck the air pump in the trash. Keep the number matching engine because it adds value to car, its number matches a plate in engine bay. Run it with all the lights on, radio, fan, and keep an eye on the fuse block, you may want to upgrade the block later. The Hydrolics are probably rotten. When you get to the bodywork, hit me up.

heroe is offline  
#3 (permalink) Old 04-09-2011, 11:12 PM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 150
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Re: Bringing 1972 240Z Back to Life

Welcome to the fold, and congrats to your friend on a fantastic one owner! Sounds like with a little love it back on the road.

What heroe said on the air pump. My 72 is completely "de-smogged". In 72 is wasn't nearly as bad as what they did with the 73s, but that stuff is more of a hassle than it is worth.

The original setup on the carbs was to have coolant run through them to help when they are cold. Some in warmer climates remove that stuff. Others leave it on. Shouldn't adversely affect the running of the car, but definitely doesn't help if it is leaking. Should be something in the FSM about that pipe and how to replace it. Been a while since I messed with it.

As for the way it is running, the SU carbs probably need some attention. If they sat for that long with gas in them, I would assume they aren't up to snuff. You can find rebuild kits for them for relatively cheap. New carbs are probably more than you want to spend at the moment. Give the rebuild a try. Once you do that, you need to get a Synchro-meter to get them flowing the right amount of air and to be working in unison. If one is pulling more than the other, the engine will feel like it isn't right. I think if you get them running right, you should be good. There should be a good primer on the carbs around here somewhere that might help.

There are several sources for parts, but a couple that people use are Motorsport (thezstore.com) and Black Dragon (blackdragonauto.com). Some times eBay works if you know the rep of the person/company you are getting the stuff from.

I bought a 72 from Arizona and had it shipped to the East Coast. Not sure how it is out there, but when I got mine (and this was 15 years ago) the rubber everywhere was pretty much shot. I ended up replacing most all hoses, belts, bushings, etc. May not be quite as bad there, but I would certainly check the rubber brake hoses, the suspension bushings and other such things. You may also want to pull the front calipers and ensure they are working properly. There are inexpensive rebuild kits for those too I believe. Think safety on something like this of course.

Again, congrats. Sounds like a fun project!

--72 240z-- Rebuilt L24 w/ Stock cam, 4 spd tranny and 3.36 rearend
81 Elect Dizzy, Magnecor wires, NGK plugs
Motorsport Header, 2.25in exhaust, Flowmaster muffler
Urethane everywhere, KYB struts, Rota RB 16x7 with 205/55-16 Hankooks
Electrical Upgrades
stresspuppy is offline  
#4 (permalink) Old 04-09-2011, 11:38 PM
Super Moderator
 
Tony D's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 1999
Location: The Island of Luzon
Posts: 39,926
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 101 Post(s)
Re: Bringing 1972 240Z Back to Life

Capt. Hamster, Gen. Gerbil sends his regards from Richard Gere's pad in the Hollywood Hills where he's in audience with Rod Stewart, Jackie Treehorn, and Carl Hungus where they all are discussing an intriguing new project...

The AIR pump getting hot may be bad, they have a tendency to seize and spontaneously ignite the belt leaving it in flaming shards on the interstate (at least mine on the 260 did that...) It's not required for running, but does materially clean up the 'fumes' out the tailpipe--which you likely will be more concerned about when you start actually moving around in the thing. There are other components in that system that can malfunction and pump exhaust gas straight into the air cleaner, making for crappy running. And guess what? They like to stick open after people set the car aside for a couple of decades. Might want to do the running with the air cleaner off for a little bit to determine if any of the anti-backfire or exhaust check valves are leaking.

The metal line you speak of was a dual function: it does REALLY help the car warm up faster, keeps the manners of the car better during the warm-up period by assisting in fuel atomization, and under high-vacuum cruise conditions keeps the icing in the carbs under control. Without it, the car can be extremely cold-blooded meaning your mileage goes to poop because you run it way rich to get it driving decently in a reasonable timeframe after start. If that line is corroded, you can block it off, but I'd at least make sure the other bypass line is working so it warms up decently. As another method to heat the car to operating temp quicker---open the heater to "HOT" before you start, and once you see the temp gauge rising, close it off back to 'cool'...don't run the fan so the water passing through the heater core doesn't get cooled off. This is a good indication of what happens when people find a leaking heater core and then simply loop the hose--straight 15mm shunt from the hottest part of the engine to the suction of the water pump: not good. But good for quick warm ups!

Make sure any missing hoses aren't sucking air when it's running. A vacuum leak will make the car almost impossible to drive until FULLY up to operating temp even on a 50 degree F day! It will make for mid rpm tip-in stumbles like you wouldn't believe.

And BTW, it's not a choke. I know that is what is says...but that's not what it does. What it does is drop the main jet about 0.100" making more fuel available, but does so without raising the suction dome meaning velocity through and across the main jet bridge gets really high and draws a much higher porportional vacuum than at normal idle because it concurrently cracks the throttle plates open incrementally exposing that bridge to cranking vacuum and after startup very high relative vacuum compared to when the throttle is not open and on curb-idle stop. Only the 73 and 74 Flat-Tops had a conventional 'strangle choke' with a plate in front of the whole works and you literally suck the gas up from the main jet well. It's more correctly referred to as the 'starting lever'...

Go through the engine tune up section of the FSM. Valve Adjustment (Hot) is MANDATORY and one of the FIRST steps in resurrecting one of these cars---it's even more critical on EFI versions, and people just don't get how important valve adjustment is on the valve event timing and overlap on the Assymetric L-Camshaft. It greatly affects vacuum to the carbs, which affects fuel delivery, and if bad enough will limit the vacuum advance resulting in terrible cruise fuel economy!

It's little details that get it running smoothly. Follow the FSM tune up section and get the brakes looked at as well as good rubber before getting frisky!

Frankly they aren't that hard to get running as transportation, but the details are what make it really perform. If you haven't been looking at Z-Therapy, do so---they have a GREAT video on how to set up the carbs. It shows how to do it rather than the abstract description in the manuals (all of them)... Get that right, and everything else is easy!

Good Luck, and keep your head down. Beware of anybody with a big baggie of whitish powder trying to get you near a 'drain culvert'...

What has been will be again, what has been done will be done again; there is nothing new under the sun.
-Ecclesiastes 1:9 and that means SEARCH, NOOB!

Canadians don't get it. Period. End of discussion.
Tony D is offline  
#5 (permalink) Old 04-10-2011, 01:57 AM
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: La Crescenta, CA
Posts: 8
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
(Thread Starter)
Re: Bringing 1972 240Z Back to Life

Thanks for the replies everyone! Won't be able to get to the car for a few more days but in the meantime, as promised, here are some pics! Please don't laugh...we know it's rough, but **** if it isn't cool!

First pic is close up of the pipe that I was talking about for coolant. Second, third, and fourth are just for fun
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Photo01181.jpg (1.27 MB, 57 views)
File Type: jpg Photo01191.jpg (1.22 MB, 55 views)
File Type: jpg Photo01241.jpg (1.47 MB, 51 views)
File Type: jpg Photo01211.jpg (1.48 MB, 54 views)
File Type: jpg Photo01181.jpg (1.27 MB, 51 views)
File Type: jpg Photo01191.jpg (1.22 MB, 55 views)
File Type: jpg Photo01241.jpg (1.47 MB, 51 views)
File Type: jpg Photo01211.jpg (1.48 MB, 54 views)

Bringing back a survivor in Los Angeles!
CaptHamster is offline  
#6 (permalink) Old 04-10-2011, 02:01 AM
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: La Crescenta, CA
Posts: 8
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
(Thread Starter)
Re: Bringing 1972 240Z Back to Life

And, of course, the interior shot! (though you all may be better off NOT seeing it...yuck)
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Photo0125.jpg (3.48 MB, 45 views)
File Type: jpg Photo0125.jpg (3.48 MB, 45 views)

Bringing back a survivor in Los Angeles!
CaptHamster is offline  
#7 (permalink) Old 04-10-2011, 08:29 AM
Super Moderator
 
heroe's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Georgia
Posts: 5,106
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Re: Bringing 1972 240Z Back to Life

I can send a pic of a cleaned up engine bay, No smog, just send me a messgage with a cell number.

heroe is offline  
#8 (permalink) Old 04-10-2011, 11:42 AM
Senior Member
 
vigman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Yes it is a 2+2 TT
Posts: 7,390
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Re: Bringing 1972 240Z Back to Life

Nice find.. VERY VERY nice!

Mike

91 2+2 5 spd TT conversion.... boost controller.. so far.
90 2+2 Auto N/A ( the car the kid stole! ) SOLD
vigman is offline  
#9 (permalink) Old 04-10-2011, 12:15 PM
Super Moderator
 
Tony D's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 1999
Location: The Island of Luzon
Posts: 39,926
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 101 Post(s)
Re: Bringing 1972 240Z Back to Life

Ooooh, that pipe is not stock...someone already tried to fix it.
At the rear point of that is the thermostatic element that closes the water pipe off after 165-175^F so if it's functioning it's better than removing it.

What has been will be again, what has been done will be done again; there is nothing new under the sun.
-Ecclesiastes 1:9 and that means SEARCH, NOOB!

Canadians don't get it. Period. End of discussion.
Tony D is offline  
#10 (permalink) Old 04-10-2011, 12:44 PM
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: La Crescenta, CA
Posts: 8
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
(Thread Starter)
Re: Bringing 1972 240Z Back to Life

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tony
Ooooh, that pipe is not stock...someone already tried to fix it.
At the rear point of that is the thermostatic element that closes the water pipe off after 165-175^F so if it's functioning it's better than removing it.
Well then...I guess that makes sense. I couldn't find anything about it in the FSM so I figured it was some kind of hack job. The part that's leaking though is where it attaches to the manifold at the left-most point and, when we first ran the car, it was just dripping. My concern is that once we flush and refill the system that it might leak even more and cause a problem. Would it be worth removing and installing a new pipe or just blocking off the points where it attaches?

Bringing back a survivor in Los Angeles!
CaptHamster is offline  
Closed Thread

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Nissan : Datsun ZCar forum :Nissan Z Forum: 240Z to 370Z forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
If you do not want to register, fill this field only and the name will be used as user name for your post.
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.



Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page



  Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
NEED HELP BRINGING 78 280Z BACK TO LIFE!! nyckenguy 70-83 Tech Discussion Forum 5 03-04-2011 03:18 PM
Bringing my 83 back to life Jboy 70-83 Tech Discussion Forum 1 03-07-2007 12:34 AM
Bringing the Z back to life GreenZ1977 70-83 Tech Discussion Forum 8 04-10-2006 02:45 PM
Bringing it back to life madolive3 70-83 Tech Discussion Forum 3 03-22-2006 07:43 PM

Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome


Content Relevant URLs by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2