L28ET cam + my whole life story

[comicartist]

Sorry if this topic is exhausted, but I've searched the database and haven't really found what I'm looking for.

For those who are interested, this is my current setup.

1978 280z
L28E, converted to turbo
Stock internals, head/cam from 1979 L28E
'83 turbo manifold
T3/T4 turbo
Locked distributor
8:1 FMU
CXRacing intercooler
Type RS BOV
3" exhaust to Megan muffler
Aeromotive A1000 FPR

and a couple of other bolt-on goodies.


Basically I built it in high school for a mild 200ish hp.

But you know what they say about getting addicted to boost......

A few years ago it felt good, but I was relatively inexperienced with forced induction. And since I've been in the city I've had the opportunity to help build a lot of boosted engines, and it's kind of opening my eyes to the problems with mine.

It's laggy, leaning out, and has a few other problems that I'm not looking forward to dealing with.

Ok, here's the current scenario.

I can get a L28ET out of an '81 ZX with 80k miles for $400. That includes motor, auto transmission, and everything connected to the motor except the exhaust manifold, which I have already.

The motor will bolt up to my stock '78 5-speed, which I'm keeping. I'll probably end up selling the auto trans.

I'm redoing the build right. Here's the plans for this motor.


All new gaskets
Porting of head, intake manifold, and exhaust manifold
HKS SSQV BOV ($hitty egay BOV is leaking)
GT35r
Walbro 255
38mm Tial wastegate
MegaSquirt V2



I can either A: drop the new motor in completely stock, and add upgrades later.
or B: Keep the motor on a stand in the garage, build it up with the above list of upgrades, and THEN drop it in.

The reason I like A better than B, is that I can make sure the motor runs good, and if I fudge up during the upgrade installation, I know exactly what's causing it.


HOWEVER, the whole point of this thread is to get advice from the guys who have been doing this stuff forever with L-series. I'm fairly experienced with this motor, but I've got nothing on most of the guys on this board.

PUNCHLINE:

I'm thinking about doing a cam with the porting. MSA offers a turbo stage 1 cam, but they don't offer any specs on the cam or where it will increase hp/torque. Or even if it affects the powerband.

I've been reading about other people doing L26 cams, and S130 NA cams. It looks like the L26 cam has too much overlap, and I can't really find much on the NA cams.

What I'm wanting to do with it is increase the hp while creating a lower powerband without adding too much boost. I'm hoping for a reliable 300ish, and although I know a cam isn't even necessary for that number, I'd like to make it as boost-efficient as possible.


If you're still reading this, thank you. That's a lot to read.

[wangsman]

do the megasquirt first. dropping in another engine with the same efi system will have no effect.

the msa stage 1 cam will make power from 3000 to 6500. 260 intake/ 250 exhaust, 114 lsa. Will work well with stock 75-80 compression ratio (8.3:1). I run one with 7.4;1 cr and wish I have more cr for it.

so, i would install the cam and megasquirt on the engine you already have. megasquirt should be the first.

[comicartist]

Would I not need a ZX turbo distributor?

[Yetis280zxt]

For MS you need a crank sensor of some sort to tell MS when to fire the coil.

So you can run a Ford EDIS crank sensor system. Details for that are on HybridZ.

The other easier way is to use an 82 or 82 turbo dizzy that has the crank position sensor built right it.

[blitz_86]

Kinda off topic but where are you finding a l28et for 400 been searching for months,Cant seem to find it for less than a grand

[skittle]

the ford EDIS-6 uses the same VR sensor, but uses a COP approch (coil on plug).

Good thing about the EDIS is when routing your IC piping you have more room with the Dizzy gone. You can pick up the EDIS-6 on most late 90's Fords in a JY for pretty cheap. DIYautotune sells the correct "wheel" for the VR sensor to mount to the crank pully.

[Tony D]

you need to flow serious air throug the head (read porting AND BIG CAM) or your GT35R will surge midrange at higher boost levels. Go with a smaller turbo if you aren't getting a real cam and real porting done.

With proper porting and cam, the GT35R will flow enough air for over 380ft-lbs of torque at 8.39psi at 4500 rpms... And that is at the rear wheels my friend. And without Methanol. It's like Cowbell: "Flow, you need more through the engine!"

[comicartist]

Tony: I'm very interested in what you're saying. What exactly do you mean by extensive porting and what exactly qualifies as a BIG CAM?

As for where I found an 80k motor for $400, a friend of mine has a votech professor who's a retired GM mechanic, and used to be into S30's and has a couple L28ET's in his shop.

[pdx280]

Just curious - you show a locked distributor on your current setup. Are you using ECU-based spark timing?

[xenonxiii]

http://allthingsz.com/store/index.ph...mp;cPath=1_5_7

If you want a cam